null.

I remember reading up on this way back about people using an golden eagle sandwich plate and how you can not use it with an aftermarket oil cooler because of the way the oil flows in and out. I never quite understood the explanation so I want to bring this topic up.

Here is a pic of the oil cooler i picked up:


and i'll most likely be using the blox sandwich plate adapter

White Smoke

You should be able to look inside and see if the flow will work with the adapter. I cant see how it wouldn't work honestly. Thats a nice looking cooler setup you got there but you are missing the MOST important part and that is a thermostat.

null.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by White Smoke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You should be able to look inside and see if the flow will work with the adapter. I cant see how it wouldn't work honestly. Thats a nice looking cooler setup you got there but you are missing the MOST important part and that is a thermostat. </TD></TR></TABLE>

It doesn't get too cold out here in cali so it is ok to not run a thermostat.

White Smoke

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by null. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It doesn't get too cold out here in cali so it is ok to not run a thermostat. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I understand where you are coming from but I just don't feel the same way. At the bare minimum you will need to let the car warm up a bit longer before driving with this setup. Cold startups are where you are going to see the worst damage. Do you have an OEM water to oil heat exchanger?

null.

K24 blocks do not have it, and I do let the car warm up fully before beating on it.

White Smoke

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by null. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">K24 blocks do not have it, and I do let the car warm up fully before beating on it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I thought the K's had the exchanger. I was talking about before revving it at all not just beating on it.

null.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by White Smoke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I thought the K's had the exchanger. I was talking about before revving it at all not just beating on it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

k20a2's do

Bump for an answer

nickromeo

i would like to know this also.

null.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nickromeo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would like to know this also.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Dunc

My quick write up that I did on a local forum. Same concept, but I don't think it is exactly what you are looking for in this situation:


The products I used were:
- (1) Golden Eagle LS/VTEC conversion kit http://www.goldeneaglemfg.com/
- (1) MOCAL oil sandwich plate SP1FT 20mm http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/ (Click on MOCAL on the right side)

Fittings/Hoses I Used:
On the GE plate
- -4AN for the turbo
- -8AN for the head
On the MOCAL
- -10AN for the feed and return to the oil cooler

What to do:
- Assuming you already have the VTEC head in place and everything, you'll just need to run the lines and such. Put the GE sandwich plate on first. Don't over tighten it though, just make it nice and snug. Next, you'll screw on the MOCAL plate over top of the GE plate. The MOCAL comes with a 20mm (SP1FT) adapting screw that screws into the GE plate. Once that is on, then you simply route your -10 or -12 lines to your oil cooler. Finally, route your hoses away from any hazards such as abasions or pulling when the motor rocks under acceleration. It's a fairly easy thing to do, and here are some picture of what it should sort of look like. Hope this helps even just a little.

This is the best picture I have of the fittings and such. If you look very very closely, you will see the (2) -10AN oil cooler lines running along by the transmission. Look at the number 4 spark plug wire on the distributor.

null.

Thanks for the answer!

LowTEC-Derbo

does the mocal relocate the oil filter?

inspyral

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LowTEC-Derbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">does the mocal relocate the oil filter? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Looks like it's a sandwich adapter with a built-in thermostat. So your filter stays in the same place, and it just diverts oil flow to the cooler once it reaches a certain temp, 180F in this case.

LowTEC-Derbo

with the added GE sanwich it looks like it will extended the filter dramatically outward..

just curious since that picture with the two sandwich doesnt show much.

Wes V

I live in California and still feel that using a thermostat in the oil line is a good idea.

I'm using the Mocal sandwich adapter shown in a prior post. Here is a photo of it installed on my B18c (in an 89 hatchback).



If you look close, you can see that I retained the factory "intercooler" and the reason is to provide clearance for the oil lines. It's no longer hooked up to any of the water lines. Basically, the factory intercooler is nothing more than a spacer.

Here is a link to the whole write-up;

http://www.performanceforum.co....html

Wes

White Smoke

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LowTEC-Derbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">does the mocal relocate the oil filter? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Mocal makes all the parts needed to set it up anyway you want. There not the cheapest but they are one of the best. I use there thermostats...
http://www.thinkauto.com/oilstats.htm

CRX T-Si

Hey, those are not the right bolts for the Half Shaft.

I got the MFactory kit, and I do not like the oil lines...POS IMO. Freaking things are too long, too short and the end fittings are garbage. Now I need to spend money to get some quality hose ends to replace them.

Anyways, I am going to get that Mocal SP1FT adaptor for less oil lines. Running the oil filter relocation kit will utilize more space then what my engine bay will allow and besides it will save me a few buxs cause now i do not have to get extra fittings to put the thermostat inline.

My problem is will the Mocal Sandwich thing fit?? because I do not have the factory oil warmer on my block. It looks like it can if I use 2 x 90 degree fittings

Wes V

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX T-Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey, those are not the right bolts for the Half Shaft. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Dang, you are the second guy to point out those bolts as a result of that photo!! The ones I used are grade 8 with washer and lock washer. I've had no problems.

I had to use the factory "intercooler" in order to have clearance for the oil lines. This was due to wanting them to run downward and avoid problems with a (hopefully) future Jackson Racing Supercharger.

It <U>may</U> be possible to rotate the Mocal so that the oil lines point up more upward, and be mounted directly in contact with the block. It varies from installation to installation.

Also a factor is the fittings you use. The Mocal has "pipe" threads for the fittings. I used 45 degree to AN adapters to help with clearance. A 90 degree to AN fitting can't be used due it being impossible to screw the second fitting, it would hit the first installed fitting.

Wes

CRX T-Si

Well, it actually doesn't matter if they are Grade 8 or not, the factory bolts are tapered but if you had no problems with it then that is good.

I like your Oil lines, that must have saved you a few pennies. and yeah i understand about the 90 fittings. Gonna play with the car this weekend and see.

Wes V

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX T-Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I like your Oil lines, that must have saved you a few pennies.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you are talking about the stainless hard lines shown in my "write-up", the answer is that you don't save anything!!

Stainless hardline is costly and rather hard to work. It also causes the number of fitting required to go up. That can add a lot to the cost.

It does make it easier to make the routing more precise.

Wes

null.

My question now is, how many quarts of oil extra do you add with the oil cooler?

LowTEC-Derbo

just keep adding till you see the dip stick full

CRX T-Si

With your cooler size I would say about 3/4 - 1 quart of oil.

White Smoke

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX T-Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My problem is will the Mocal Sandwich thing fit?? because I do not have the factory oil warmer on my block. It looks like it can if I use 2 x 90 degree fittings</TD></TR></TABLE>

It should fit no problem! It will also give you more space to change the filter. I have set one up on a B-series w/o the stock heat exchanger and had no problems. If you use swivel fitting and the IM is off when you do the install you should have no problems. It's a total PITA with the IM on.

On another note, I run the stock heat exchanger with my oil cooler and I recommend using it ESPECIALLY if you are not running a thermostat. It will help warm up your oil on those cold days. Remember you want your oil temp to be around 180deg. No less, no more.

LowTEC-Derbo

damn im definitely doing this.


I wonder why my oil temps are around 210-225F cruising on freeway at 3000rpm on a 77F day..