IntegraTypeR

iTrader: (1)

Hi guys,
I have this built b16 (sleeved/rods/pistons) and build head (ITR cam/p&p/valvetrain)...now i have this gt35r on my setup with the coolant lines hooked up (feed from water neck pipe and return into the heater return). Where i live is really hot! right now in the summer temps reaches upto 97-122F (36-50C) and in the winter it goes down to 86-100F (30-38C)....since am in the middle of the summer i always see 240F of oil temps!!! i just blew HG and will replace it these coming days..now i dont know which oil to upgrade now since oil temps dont seem good even though am using BP Visco 5000 which is full synthetic and is 5w40 i believe. As an extra note i am using the stock oil cooler thinking when i 1st put it that it would help dropping temps down! Once i upgraded to that oil (used to be non sythetic 20w40) my oil started to leak from the HG and oil adapter sandwich and the overheat problems started to become worse! the reason why i upgrade from non-sythetic 20w40 to full sythetic 5w40 was cause the 20w40 couldnt take the heat and blacks out very very quickly! now heres a few qs:

1- in my situation of my area being hot should i keep using full sythentic or go back using NON synthetic?
2- which Viscosty from the poll would you guys recommend for weather condition we have here?

please dont recommend redline or purple or pennzoil or amsoil oil cause we dont get those here!

thanks in advance,
Km


Modified by IntegraTypeR at 1:21 PM 7/29/2007


Modified by IntegraTypeR at 9:50 AM 7/31/2007

1fastEK9

I think you should use regular castrol 10-30 it does the work for a lot of guys here in Las Vegas,NV it gets very hot out here also, good luck

1fastEK9

also be careful with the synthetics oils they are known 2 expletive up your seals it happen 2 me and a lot of other guys

quicksilver1689

i dont think synthetics harm seals, thats silly. They may be more "slippery" due to synthetic friction modifiers which is why sometimes you hear the old story about an old car that switched to synthetics and starting leaking oil.

IntegraTypeR

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr Wonderfull &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you cant get redline rp or amsoil in CA??? where the expletive do you live.

1 more vote for search...

redline is going to be the way i go from now on... mobile 1 right now</TD></TR></TABLE>

my location used to be CA...well i did mention am overseas (way far from the states!)..doesnt matter which country, but weather conditions is mentioned

Sound Streamin'

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1fastEK9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also be careful with the synthetics oils they are known 2 expletive up your seals it happen 2 me and a lot of other guys </TD></TR></TABLE>

This is a load of crap. If your seals start to leak synthetic then they were crap to begin with. The synthetic just exposed the problem. I have NEVER in my life seen an engine have a problem because of synthetic oil. And Im in the oil industry.

IntegraTypeR

iTrader: (1)

never heard of bardahl before so am sure i wont find it here!

IntegraTypeR

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sound Streamin’ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

This is a load of crap. If your seals start to leak synthetic then they were crap to begin with. The synthetic just exposed the problem. I have NEVER in my life seen an engine have a problem because of synthetic oil. And Im in the oil industry.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i never believe that either until everything on the engine leaked from many areas like:

1- turbo oil feed line at the adapter sandwich
2- turbo oil return line
3- oil filter
4- oil pan
5- head gasket
6- valve cover seal or could be cam seals since it was at the timing belt area

i was like crap whats going on? if it was a bad seal or bad installation it would have leaked in one or two areas, but it leaked all around! i guess it the heat thats causing this!

as an extra note all seals on this engine is brand OEM NEW and the engine has just completed around 1k of miles!


Modified by IntegraTypeR at 4:56 PM 7/29/2007

IntegraTypeR

iTrader: (1)

i just emailed Mobil and hope they tell me that Mobil 1 0w40 is semi-synthetic since my friends here never had luck with full sythetic on their heavily modified cars! full synthetic seems to work really well here on modern stock turbo charged/supercharged cars!


Modified by IntegraTypeR at 9:52 AM 7/31/2007

WalkerGSR1

Amsoil 5-40 synthetic. That will definately bring oil temps down.

IntegraTypeR

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WalkerGSR1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Amsoil 5-40 synthetic. That will definately bring oil temps down.</TD></TR></TABLE>

cant use redline or purple or pennzoil or amsoil oil since we dont get those here!

1fastEK9

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sound Streamin’ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

This is a load of crap. If your seals start to leak synthetic then they were crap to begin with. The synthetic just exposed the problem. I have NEVER in my life seen an engine have a problem because of synthetic oil. And Im in the oil industry.</TD></TR></TABLE>

keep on using the crap synthetic oil on your car and you'll see what I'm talking about I been a mechanic for a long time and I don't talk **** like you do

IntegraTypeR

iTrader: (1)

1fastEK9 what do you recommend me using now? semi-synthetic? i heard semi synthetic oil is mineral based oil? is that true?

WalkerGSR1

Amsoil is ordered online.

IntegraTypeR

iTrader: (1)

Visco 5000 am using right now is 5w40 and its leaking right now! i believe its not allowed to ship fluids by plane! am overseas remember?

1fastEK9

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraTypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1fastEK9 what do you recommend me using now? semi-synthetic? i heard semi synthetic oil is mineral based oil? is that true?</TD></TR></TABLE>


I had a lots of problems with synthetic oils, that's why I'm not using them at all, the oil I prefer is the regular CASTROL 10-30 , for turbo or all motor it does the job and doesn't damage any seals

Sprockets

iTrader: (6)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1fastEK9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also be careful with the synthetics oils they are known 2 expletive up your seals it happen 2 me and a lot of other guys </TD></TR></TABLE>

This isn't true anymore. Modern synthetics have proper additives so your seals don't get fucked up.

agrn93ls

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1fastEK9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


I had a lots of problems with synthetic oils, that's why I'm not using them at all, the oil I prefer is the regular CASTROL 10-30 , for turbo or all motor it does the job and doesn't damage any seals</TD></TR></TABLE>

i also use Castrol 10w30 GTX.

i have switched back and forth between fully syn and non syn and had no leak issues. i also am a mechanic and built my engine. not calling BS but have yet to see synthetic cause issues....

IntegraTypeR

iTrader: (1)

is castrol GTX 10w30 synthetic or semi-synthetic or non synthetic? is it mineral oil or additive type oil?

right now am taking the whole head and oil pan...etc appart to redo my gaskets
once seals start to leak they never seal again until you replace them! the reason am asking about synthetic and non synthetic cause i dont want my motor to leak again after i do the replacement of seals on my engine!

RedR

for a start if the temps r so high there u should prolly buy an oil cooler kit.
As for oil well assuming u r in europe just like me i´ve been using the castrol RS 0w40 for almost 6 years without a problem (boosted for almost 2), and im going to keep on using it on the built block i have under my desk lol. Other than that maybe the visco 7000 5w40

1fastEK9

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraTypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is castrol GTX 10w30 synthetic or semi-synthetic or non synthetic? is it mineral oil or additive type oil?

right now am taking the whole head and oil pan...etc appart to redo my gaskets
once seals start to leak they never seal again until you replace them! the reason am asking about synthetic and non synthetic cause i dont want my motor to leak again after i do the replacement of seals on my engine!</TD></TR></TABLE>

castrol gtx 10-30 in the white bottle that's the regular oil

1fastEK9

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sprockets &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

This isn't true anymore. Modern synthetics have proper additives so your seals don't get fucked up. </TD></TR></TABLE>

this things happened recently with the new synthetic oils, just be careful

Sprockets

iTrader: (6)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1fastEK9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this things happened recently with the new synthetic oils, just be careful</TD></TR></TABLE>

Could you be more specific? Which oil/oils were used and what happened?

IntegraTypeR

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sprockets &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Could you be more specific? Which oil/oils were used and what happened?</TD></TR></TABLE>

well from my experience my leaks could be from too much crankcase pressure! so right now while am changing all my seals am adding another catchcan on my engines valvecover! i think it makes sense since my catch can is not going to the intake anymore (using an after market intake manifold) and its only directed to the can so there is no other way out the pressure will escape if its small filtered for example and will try getting out between the seals and thats where the signs of oil i've seen!

Legion

I would not use Valvoline synthetic. Didn't seem to work too well for me...