Woody.

So I guess I'll start out with that I have an 84mmx89mm ITR sleeved with wiseco pistons and I will be JRSC soon if I can get all the kinks resolved with the buyer. I will be breaking the engine in on the Dyno with Brad Penn Break in oil.

After the dyno session I will tow my car back home and then change the oil. What do I change the oil to? I'm looking for brands but more importantly what weight? I've used 5w-30 in the past and it seems to work great. I live in Texas and have blazing hot summers (110+, no rain for months) and rather cold winters (0-10 degrees, and rain/ice often.) Could I run 0w-30? Or should I run a different oil? I'm thinking about sticking with brad penn partially synthetic oil but have also heard good things about Amsoil and Mobil 1.

wunfstgsr

penzoil hyper synthetic 5w-30!

racebum

weight is usually decided by bearing clearance. as for brands? zinc, ash and heat resistance are 3 of the biggies. redline is probably one of the better crafted group 5 syns but you pay dearly for it.

as for store brands valvoline syn or penzoil platnium would be my choices

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

i use 5w40 either rotella t or royal purple, RP has been my staple of use when racing but ive been leaking fluids so frequently lately ive just been using the T6.

LocoJoe

+1 Royal Purple

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

id like to point out for those that do use royal purple, due to growing pressure from the EPA, their over the shelf brand oil now no longer contains synerlec, and is API rated SN. Not necessarily a bad oil, but the whole point of royal purple was to take advantage of that proprietary additive package they have, and now its only available in HPS or XPR oils.

Woody.

I've heard the purple die in Royal Purple is bad for engine components.

racebum

rp had a lot of zinc in it which is one of the reasons it was such a good anti wear oil. the purple dye has zero impact on jack

DRAGLS

Brad penn 20w-50 in the supra and teggy.

Woody.

Why is every using w40 or w50? Should I look into that over w30?

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

i wouldnt run anything over a 40w on a factory engine, bearing tolerances werent designed for such a heavy oil, only reason i run a 40w is because of racing in this extreme heat, tends to thin the oil out alot and i want the extra protection.

Woody.

Its sleeved with forged internals and manley rods so not exactly factory but it is clearanced to OEM specs if that is what you mean. Wait, so the number after the w is the weight of the oil..? I thought it was the number before.

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

dual weight oil uses special polymers that bind the oil different at certain temps, the first number indicates the cold temp weight, which would be 5, the second number indicates the weight when it is hot, which would be 30 weight.

Woody.

Ahh makes sense. Well with the temperatures we are experiencing currently I could probably use a 10w400000000 and be okay. It is hot as Hell. 115 degrees on a daily basis of straight sun. However, this is the worst summer I can remember. And the winter previously was the coldest ever...

With that in mind. Will a 5w20 give me better fuel economy and engine protection vs a 10w30?

Woody.

Also. How does Eneos oil fair?

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

no, the fuel economy thing is a myth lol stick with 5w30 if your stock and not beating the ***** off your car every day, you can bump up to 5w40 without issue if you feel the need to to, but i wouldnt go beyond that.

DRAGLS

If the motor was turbocharged and the ambient temps are 115f definitely run a 20w-50.

You being sc 10w-40 should do good, also look for a oil with high zddp content.

Woody.

Should I run like 5w20 in winter and 5w30 or 40 in winter?

Also - does the over the shelf RP contain the high zinc count? And if not, where do I get the better RP ?

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

RP got pressured into switching their over the shelf oils to the new API SN standard, which the EPA has been pushing, i wont use an over the shelf oil rated for that particular standard, as it has even lower additive counts like zinc in it then the previous standard of SM. Your car was designed for an SL rated oil, you should stick with that or better. Unfortunately you wont find any SL rated oils on the market for passenger cars except for rotella or delvac maybe, which are supposed to be diesel oils.

You will even see that the over the shelf ones no longer contain synerlec , which it would normally state on the front of the bottle. Only oils they have now that contain synerlec which is the additive package they are known for, are the new HPS (high performance street) oils and the racing oil they offer which is the XPR.

I would stick with the standard issue 5w30 if i were you, no reason to start mixing and matching oils, especially if you arent as experienced in understanding how it works and how your engine is designed. You go with something exotic one day that the engine might not like, and you will wind up wiping a bearing. 5w30 will do you good in damn near all conditions, as long as its a good brand of oil.

Woody.

So wheres the best place to get oil. I was searching on Amazon and a few of the RP had contains synerlec on the front of the bottle. I don't know if it was a sample picture or the actual oil.


Edit: I just searched the RP XPS and its $20 a quart... I don't have the budget to spend $100 an oil change. :/

Is there anything else thats close to as good but perhaps a little cheaper?

racebum

redline and amsoil are roughly $8/qt

Woody.

Amsoil is API SN. Except the Amsoil Z-Rod which is high zinc. But the standard Amsoil Signature Series is API SN certified.

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

royal purple HPS is new, not sure about its availability yet