pjr710

I test fitted my stealthmode oil line kit to my turbo to see how it was gunna hook up. There is no threading for the oil feed on my turbo itself. My oil kit came with a flange for the drain, but not one for the feed. do i need to buy one? i don't see how i would connect it otherwise.

also i need to buy an oil restrictor, i'm sure i would need the flange for this as well. LMK

stealthmode62

There are two options for the turbos that aren't threaded.

tap it to 1/8npt with a tap set from an autoparts store (about $12)

Buy a feed flange. I believe http://www.tunertoy.com may even have the ones with the built in restrictor.

Joseph Davis

http://www.tunertoys.com

Stevemode means well, but his 's' key has seen better days.

pjr710

just checked tunertoys and they only have oil drain flanges, no feed. i know atpturbo.com has the feed flanges, but they don't have one with a built in restrictor. I wanna buy something like that

1995Civic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pjr710 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just checked tunertoys and they only have oil drain flanges, no feed. i know atpturbo.com has the feed flanges, but they don't have one with a built in restrictor. I wanna buy something like that</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just get it from ATP (where i got mine from).

It doesnt have the built-in restrictor, but you will be fine. I think its so retarded how stealthmode claims its a "complete kit" but they leave out the most important parts. Pain in the ***

JaredKaragen

I give a thumbs up for Function7 flanges... I own 2 sets... nice units too.

If your running -3AN, you can get a unrestricted flange, if u are running -4, get a restricted (depending on setup)

If it is a ball bearing, you need the restrictor. If it is wet floating, you don't with -3, but probably do for -4.

but for 1/8NPT, you probably need the restrictor.

boostin92hatch

same thing happened to me... i went with the atp flange.. good flange and it was cheap, plus i got fast shipping

pjr710

i'll get that flange then. what does npt stand for? and -3an? I have a garrett t3 turbo, and i wasn't gunna get a restrictor, but someone on d-series said i need one.

i also think its bs that stealthmode can't give the whole entire oil line kit, it's pretty rediculous. will i need to buy those red and blue connectors to connect my oil drain too? or do the brass fittings and the little couplers they give in their kit work fine?

White Smoke

NPT= National Pipe Thread

You need a restrictor no matter what feed you run, I would just tap the turbo and get a -3 line with restrictor. Fast Turbo has -3 restrictor fittings for 8 bucks I believe.

White Smoke

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1984630

Flamenco-T

For T3/4 you won't need any restrictor. We never ran any on any cars.

The KEY is to make sure that your oil drain goes as straigth downward path as possible. You're using a -3AN oil feed and -10AN oil return, there's a huge difference in size.

In summary, get the feed flange (we have them for $ 18 shipped), make sure you oil return line goes as straight downward path as possible and you'll be fine.

Now, if you have a freak motor and your oil pump is pushing at 50 psi at idle once it's warmed up, you have a problem, but it is very very very unlikely.

The T3 CHRA can handle the oil flow given that you have a good oil return.

90% of blown turbo seals caused by in-adequate oil return line, why do you think we give you 2- 45 degrees bend on our oil return line kit versus the straights ? straights are cheaper but it doesn't benefit you a bit. Plus the designs of manifold nowdays puts the turbo lower than ever before.

stan

White Smoke

My turbonetics t3/t4 that came with my rev hard kit many years ago had a restrictor that come on top of the turbo and was marked with red paint to tell if it was ever removed. Just an interesting fact...

stealthmode62

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1995Civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I think its so retarded how stealthmode claims its a "complete kit" but they leave out the most important parts. Pain in the *** </TD></TR></TABLE>

It might just be that your retarded turbo isn't threaded, like the other 99% of them are. Find me a signifigant oil line kit that offers the feed flange as a standard and not additional item.
Did you find it more a pain in the *** to tap the turbo with a $12 tap found at a local auto parts store, or to pay $18 + shipping to wait for a part you didn't really need?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flamenco-T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

90% of blown turbo seals caused by in-adequate oil return line, why do you think we give you 2- 45 degrees bend on our oil return line kit versus the straights ? </TD></TR></TABLE>


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flamenco-T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The KEY is to make sure that your oil drain goes as straigth downward path as possible...............................why do you think we give you 2- 45 degrees bend on our oil return line kit versus the straights ? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I guess I'm stumped.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pjr710 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> will i need to buy those red and blue connectors to connect my oil drain too? or do the brass fittings and the little couplers they give in their kit work fine?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The answer depends on how many photo shoots you'll be doing from the underside of the car. Please factor in your ability to put AN fittings together for the first time, and the lack of AN wrenches in your tool box that allow them to stay blinged up.

Joseph Davis

Stevemode ownage. Again.


I know better than to argue with him on any subject other than technical esoterica... everyone should learn from Joey.

Flamenco-T

I was simply implying that some kits comes with straight fitting (mainly for the oil pan) to where you will have to have a horizontal line for oil going back into the oil pan.

If you can get straigth down from the turbo, you're doing great.

My point is simply that being gravity fed, you should have downward flow path all around. 45 Degree hose ends coming back into the oil pan helps achieve that.

stan

Joseph Davis

I've used both what you've described, and a few Stealthmode kits, and achieved the same results. Bottom line is 45 degree fittings enter the pan at horizontal.

If one of you oil line salesman wants to get snappy and actually design a product that is better, it wouldn't be terribly hard to come up with a pair of cam washers that would angle a traditional bulkhead fitting. I'd buy that over my current solution, and not be so annoyed with flapping gums debating non-issue aspects of drain design to promote their personal business interests.

Either something repeatably works just fine, or it has issues. Everything else is manipulating words and innappropriate for a tech forum.

stealthmode62

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Joseph Davis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've used both what you've described, and a few Stealthmode kits, and achieved the same results.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I believe you, and the next salesman claiming my kit doesn't work as well as anything else out there will be told again.