NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

I know that. Like I said, I'm wondering about it's actual monetary value, not any kind of performance value. I'm probably just going to pull it off.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

On obd2 cars when you unhook the evap solenoid it throws a code, ask me how I know lol

LightningTeg

I noticed pretty quick oil degradation from E85 and i dont have drain back. I usually pull about a quart of oil on a good night of many pulls. On the dyno I get barely anything, so its really the oil splashing through the lines in VC.

OneBadTurboCRV

I should have mentioned before that is heavily dependent on how the vehicle is driven, clearances are set, and how the car is tuned. Then again, as with most of the information I have said I thought it was all common knowledge. I get my milage through being a daily driver and only getting on it every so often at the most once a day and for a couple gears. As one of my buddies says "Having kids will put that 'fear' in you". :-)

$MIKE$

iTrader: (13)

so on e85 cars an oil catch can with recirculation system is not advisible?

OneBadTurboCRV

You could do it but you better be **** about staying on top of your fluids. It is advisable to not do it if you don't want to deal with the added cost and work with maintaining such a system. Everything is relative to you and your situation. Everyone will have a different opinion on this, but the fact is E85 will dilute the oil quicker. How quick is quick? There are way too many variables and perspective comes into play as well.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Am I also correct in assuming that an open drain line down to the pavement wouldn't (or at least shouldn't) pass tech at most tracks?

OneBadTurboCRV

Now you are catching on... What I do personally is have a female swivel A/N fitting on the end of the line and while I have the car up in the air for slicks, disconnecting exhaust, or whatever needs to be done I put a male A/N plug in. You could also have a male end with A/N or NPT to the same effect. Many solutions to the minimal problem.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Yep, it seems like a simple petcock valve somewhere easily accessible (fender well, maybe) would be a simple, elegant solution.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

That's the best way to do it. plus like I said earlier if you have any concerns about the health of the motor the petcock method gives you a good way of collecting oil samples for 3rd party lab analysis

OneBadTurboCRV

I don't like the petcock personally that is why I didn't recommend it directly. The only reason is I had one start dripping at the drag strip about 8 years ago and cut my day short. Ever since then I switched to a plug and never had an issue. Plus there is plenty of fluid to collect for oil analysis if need be. But I do agree the petcock makes things MUCH easier. That and I don't go to the drag strip much anymore so it isn't THAT much of a pain to install a plug. Everyone has their own needs to cater to.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

Highly advisable to not do drainback with ethanol. After 6-8 passes at the track and driving around the track and idle time we get 1/2 quart of water/ethanol mixture with some oil vapor out of my catch can. Ethanol absorbs moisture and will load the catch can up. you dont want that draining back into your engine.

OneBadTurboCRV

This may be true for your specific setup. People keep getting back to the typical internet rhetoric - every setup is different. Your P2W clearances are much wider than normal as well as your boost levels. If E85 ruins oil so quickly then why doesn't GM Flex Fuel vehicles recommend oil changes every 500 miles or less? I am not trying to argue with you, just pointing out that every setup is different and will have unique oil change requirements to match. There is no one size fits all here, each person needs to design their setup to what their needs are.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

That's interesting. I've had a petcock where my drain plug on my oil pan should be for a few years now, and it's never leaked. The factory coolant drain plug is also technically a petcock, and it's more likely to seize before it leaks. Maybe you just got unlucky? Regardless, you can still cap a petcock, so if leakage is a worry, I'd just cap it and call it a day.

m4xwellmurd3r

I was looking up diy catch cans and found one that caught my attention. I know baffling these cans with a wall to ensure the oil and liquids seperate is important, than I saw a guy use an air compressor water seperator as a catch can. The volume isnt much but I think I know of a solution to that.

You put it inline with the pcv I assume the pcv would be between the intake and the catch can to prevent putting pressure into the can. You would put a T fitting between the seperator and the pcv, and run that to the intake pre turbo with another check valve between the T and turbo. The inlet side would have the ports from the back of the block feed into it. It seems like with this method you wont need the vc ports.

On the issue with its capacity. These have an auto drain feature that drain when they depressurize. Since theyre operating under vacuum now, they will always drain.

I think if you just remove the components of the auto drain, and hook the fitting to a line that drains out to a sealed can, you can increase its capacity and retain its function

http://www.lowes.com/pd_221014-47120...=Kobalt|Kobalt





Am I crazy and this is a bad idea, or does this seem like a plausible idea to get a vacuum assisted catch can without the vacuum side from sucking up all the crud?

It was also mentioned to put some copper scrubber stuff in it or a loofah to help the contaminants and oil to form droplets and stay

OneBadTurboCRV

It was dripping since a friend left it open haha. That's what I get for letting someone help me... we made almost 20 passes that night with multiple hot laps so between trying out different slicks, changing plugs, tire pressure, suspension, yada yada it was overlooked. Went to the burn out box and got flagged. Could have made another 10 passes haha. Oh well, live and learn. But I do feel like a broken record now, it is all personal preference and needs to suit YOU.

Max - My only concern would be how easy or hard it would be to flow through that device since they usually are designed for pressures of 30 or 40 psi and up. I have shoved stainless steel wool in poorly designed catch cans to help take the stuff out of the air before. It works, just get the largest wires you can find. In any case, a properly designed catch can would be more desired in any situation.

m4xwellmurd3r

Yeah I was thinking about the effectiveness as well, its rated for 90psi with a 5psi pressure drop between inlet and outlet. Some nicer ones ive seen have a 1psi pressure drop but of course cost shoots up.



The reason why I ask about it is because it appears to be a decent method on the cheap

CEdwards89

My personal experiences and preferences have always been;

A. Vented catch can. Helping relieve the extra pressures created when adding any form of boost to your motor.

B. I have NEVER been a fan of recirculated catch cans. This can has just done it's job and helped filter out some bad, and moisture etc out of your engine. Why reintroduce it?
I have seen some pretty odd things coming from draining cans on completely healthy motors and wouldn't ever run one back into my oil system after seeing it.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

No drainback. period

I suggested the petcock because it's what the "mundanes" are used to but like you said they leak.

personally I run a braided line with a male an fitting and a cap.