wantboost

iTrader: (2)

lololol

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

No. I've read this thread from the beginning. Many times. Just wondering why someone came in here out of left field talking about jet engine tech as IF we're all running them in our cars. Always gotta be someone trying so hard to be different or reinvent the wheel around here.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Well, its no fun to be a sheeple lol
or display common sense

Herro Panda

Thinking about doing this too. Still slightly confused at how the vacuum in the crankcase is supposed to be controlled. The setup with the PCV would be:
back of block -> PCV or check valve -> catch can inlet -> catch can outlet w/ mini filter (looking to get similar one in pic, as ppl on the evo forums seem to open them and toss in their own baffles)
plugging the IM hole, as i dont want to recirc it

However, if the PCV does leak when the crankcase is under high vacuum (or is it just when the IM is pressurized with boost?), the crud in the catch can would get sucked back in. If the PCV doesnt open under vacuum, or if i replace it with a solid check valve, the vacuum would hold. OP said this could be bad if the crankcase vacuum gets around 15 in/Hg (around 8 psi). Is this the same vacuum press on a boost gauge or is it different due to the breather line allowing some air in? If there is no chance of it reaching those levels, is the check valve setup going to work?

rs250nut

When you guys are running a drain back to the sump pan are you above or below the oil level?

OneBadTurboCRV

ABOVE... how else would it freely gravity drain?

Gunmetal_B20_Hatch

iTrader: (9)

it does not matter.

kjmagnum

If it were above the oil level then it could act as another breather port from the oil pan and would help prevent any oil leaks or catastrophic failures.

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

That's what I was thinking. Why not mount one of the lines to the back of the block low on the can so it can double as a drainback?

rs250nut

I have two -10 hoses from the valve cover, and two -10 hoses on the back of the block and i want to use a seperate drain on the bottom of the catch can, I suppose i should test it.

AFAccord

Working on a single cam F-series boosted setup. From what I've read in Dasher's write-up, here's the route I think I'm going:

-breather filter on VC at the stock breather nipple
-90* or 135* fitting out of VC PCV port down back of block extending to slash-cut fitting in downpipe

Hoping to apply the k.i.s.s. principle here. Pros/cons to this setup? Should I seal off the breather nipple, or maybe use it as a second slash-cut setup?

Edit: and is it worth considering a check valve in-line since this is full exhaust with no cat?

b18c5 power

iTrader: (3)

Everybody does either the two plug on each side of the oil filter (and plug the oem nipple breather + the oem breather hole <or use the oem breather as a drain back ) and some add vc breather as well or not or a combo of both ! Anyway, confused yet lol !!


OK now what about using the oem nipple and oem breather hole and run two lines (out of the oem hole+nipple )to the catch can instead , this would work right?Could not be worst than the oem breather !

lmk what u think

ahobbs

Here's something for you guys to ponder on...

When the traditional setup doesn't work, you gotta think outside the box

Tjabo

The consensus seems to be that the check valve is always beneficial because there are pulses in the exhaust stream that the check valve eliminates, thus increasing the negative pressure in your crank case evacuation tube. Of course, this makes the system more efficient/effective.

pkopalek

I actually have this same issue. Stock PCV setup completely, except for the breather on the valve cover (instead of going into the manifold).

Oil shoots everywhere under boost.

Just bought a catch can to hook the stock PCV black box into the catch can, and vacuum line at the top of the catch can to either slashcut pipe into exhaust or a vacuum line before the turbo. Haven't decided yet.

Possibly, the stock valve cover to the catch can as well (rather than a breather).

Great thread. I literally just read every single post.

staticchmbr

and bump from the dead.. just spent a while reading through this, as well as posts on domestic forums about the slash cut.

motor: d16a1 (dohc d-series)

i was planning on putting 2 of the -10an bungs on my valve cover, and running them to a vented catch can. as for my block i have 2 options..
1. buy d-series fitting to replace black box, run to a seperate sealed catch can to -10an line to scavenger slash cut in exhaust
or
2. keep factory black box, and still run a catch can (maybe), then do the -10an line to exhaust scavenger slash cut.
THERE WILL BE A -10an CHECK VALVE IN EITHER OF THESE SETUPS

i was looking into this vibrant e-vac scavenger kit:
http://vibrantperformance.com/catalo...oducts_id=1243

this brings me to my next set of questions..
1. where is the desired installation point for the exhaust slash cut? is it close to the turbo? should i run it down AFTER my high flow cat?



2. how far into the exhaust would the slash cut get the best vacuum? say its a 2.5" pipe, should the slash stick into the middle of the flow in the piping, or is it best to have it closer to the walls? i read mixed opinions on tests.. some say to mount them like the picture above, and some say that the exhaust creates a better vacuum if the scavenger is located in the middle of the flow

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

Personally, I would get it in there a little farther than that to minimize boundary effects. I don't think it needs to be all the way in the middle though, as it starts to become a decent size obstruction at some point.

Closer to the collector also means more exhaust energy to do work on it. If you have a cat it needs to go after, but I'm not sure if it will do much that far downstream.

It all may be overthinking things, if you're pulling any vacuum on the crankcase at all you're doing pretty good, it shouldn't take more than a couple of inches to keep the gases moving out. Make sure you have a decent fresh air source for the crankcase as well. A spare MAP sensor hooked up to your catch can can provide data for your experiments.

Sorry for not having any definitive answer to your questions, just some more fuel for discussion.

staticchmbr

Definitely good input.. I want to try to get this thread going again, and hopefully someone chimes in with some test results, or experiences

I'm going to be doing the vented can with -10an bungs on the valve cover, and the slash cut for the block... Or should I just tie it all in to the same can?

jase2985

my question is do you really need that many lines for your motor? from your post its N/A?

surely if it is NA and highly tuned 2 lines from the head would be more than enough?

Its my understanding that the lines from the head do a good job on a NA motor as there is not a huge amount of pressure being created. only a high HP turbo motor would need more than 2 as they create a lot more pressure in the crank case..

Someone correct me if im wrong?

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

the exhaust slash cuts are only so long and if you notice in the above pic, it's about 3-4mm from being as far into the exhaust stream as possible, this would only get worse with larger piping.

Doodasi

Read lots of this trying to figure what to do. Hate to revive an old post, but the o.p. is kinda wrong, or missing something, I do believe. The pcv system was designed to keep the engine cleaner. It helps keep contaminants out of your oil.

What does an engine make that ends up in your crankcase from blowby that doesn't get evacuated? Amongst others, the most corrosive substance in the universe. Sulfuric acid.

That is a huge reason why you need a pcv valve, differential pressure (vacuume), and a line that goes as close to your valvetrain as humanly possible.

Burn it.

Wondering if an srt4 pcv will fit in d16 o.e. location, or another like it?, or use check valve?

I will try to figure out how to make a breather that doesnt make a mess, and doesnt involve draining a can, or dumping it in exhaust, but Im sure thats wishful thinking. Nobody thought of that yet, so im sure i wont. Pcv stays. Think I will gum up my intake.

hondamyheart

For H22A. i run filter on the valve breather, weld 2 AN10 fitting on the back of valve cover. do i have to vent the pcv valve to air or remove it and plug the hole?

LightningTeg

Reintroducing it into your combustion will throw off AFRs for sure on a car thats moving a lot of air.