Si Shane

Its located just behind the motor, like directly underneath the intake manifold, about 6-8" from where the DP meets the cat. (well not really, but thats where the oem cat would go)

The first sensor lasted a good long while, a few months on the Greddy blue box, then maybe two more on my uberdata setup. Since then the only modification is increaced boost, from 7 on the piggyback to 10 on the 'standalone'

The sensor went bad, was covered with **** and only read solid air. This happened kinda slow, first i tohught my car was running lean and was trippin out adding fuel to ALL of my fuel tables, then at high rpm/tps there would be so much velocity in the exhaust it would just go 21. This adventailly became true for any rpm/tps values. Now it reads 21 (thats as lean as it goes).

I replaced it with a new one, and perfecto **** was perfect. Well, that was about two months ago and now this sensor just went out, wtf. Same ****, i cleaned it off and tried them back in. I dropped the first sensor and it will only read a lambda of 1, or 14.7 solid stoich. Uber gay, so i swap it out for the newest sensor (after i cleaned it off duh) and it almost worked. That was this morning.

It read super lean, like 15-18 at idle, and ihave a 13.5 idle almost always. I could smell the gass, it was running pretty normally. About 4 minutes of idleing and the only reading was 21.


WTF why do my sensors hate me. i fuckinng hate driving around without my wideband, i seriously hate it. Is it too close, is it getting fried.

My afr are pretty normal, around 14-14.5 in partial throttle, then down to 12.5 at 0 then 12 for boost, high 11's at wot.

BTW_Zeitronix wideband




EDIT- just incase, b16 with a tdo5 greddy kit, pcv hooked up to the suction pipe and all.

HiProfile

I suggest is that you tune it extremely well with a wideband, then disable closed loop in uberdata, then put in a crappy stock sensor. It won't give you optimal fuel efficiency, but it seems that it's already dumping fuel when the o2's bad - you'll just save on replacing sensors. Just make sure you re-tune it whenever something changes, like seasonal temps or engine mod.

Another idea would be to try a different set of injectors, do a compression test, and inspect your plugs (maybe get new plugs/wires after). Basicly you might have a bad injector/plug/etc, and if 3 cylinders were 12:1 and one cylinder was 15:1 (or sorta vice versa), you'd be getting 'normal' a:f's but still be gunking up the sensor.

My last idea is that your turbo is dumping oil somehow. Have someone run behond you on a clear day, run it through, and find out if they see *any* blue smoke. It would fit, since it takes a while to die, and lately the sensor goes quicker.


edit: last thing - you may hate the first idea not running a wideband 24/7, but honestly, if you need it 24/7 to see if your car starts running lean, you have more important engine problems that should take priority.

Si Shane

Thanks for the response, much appreciated.

I was thinking that pcv system was expelling enough oil to damage the sensor... I guess a catchcan seems like a possible solution.

I dont konw how probable that is though.

keebler65

i'm not familiar with your wideband controller, but is there any way to tell if the heater is working? because if it isn't working properly (or at all), then the sensor will foul rather quickly. might be something to look into...they should be lasting MUCH longer than you're describing.

Si Shane

i have the o2 heater disabled in uberdata. Could the ecu controll the wideband sensor? I still have a primary o2 hagning around in my engine bay.

keebler65

the heater in uberdata has nothing to do with your wideband heater. the checkbox in uberdata disables the stock o2 sensor heater. it's your wideband controller that controls the heater of your wideband sensor.

Si Shane