DelSolDon

Ok, I am supposed to sell my car today and will be picking up an EF hatchback shell. I am planning on building a d-series turbo to put in it, so I am doing research now. I've done the b-series all-motor, so I want to try something different. I want to stick with d-series because of the low cost of blocks, heads, and trannys that leaves more money for pistons, rods, turbo parts, etc. I have just started gettin my learn on about d-turbo's and found that the main problem appears to be the head gasket blowing. Has there been anything that might prevent this? I know of block guards, but I have also heard that they cause your pistons to smash into the cylinder walls. Also, I guess the rods and pistons are pretty weak, so what are some good alternatives? I've heard about the suzuki vitara pistons, but are forged worth the extra $$$? How about rods, are there any that are better than others? Should I even worry about lowering the compression since it is only at what, about 9:1 anyway? What block is best suited for boost? Thanks for any help. *and yes, i have searched and will continue searching*

overview- I know a little, but I don't know a whole lot about d-series nor turbos. I will have about $4000 to build a d-series motor and turbo setup. What are my best choices to get near 300hp since that is the apparent limit on pump gas?

Unsivil_audio

Just mimic somebody's setup at Turbod16.com

300whp shouldnt be hard at all to attain. I have less than 3g's between my build and turbo setup.

DelSolMike

iTrader: (1)

The problem isn't really head gaskets blowing. Its mainly the head lifting under boost. Just get some arp headstuds and an oem head gasket and your good to go. Just beware with d-series motors if you get rods like eagle h-beams you will need to get your block notched so that they fit. I believe the crower econos are shaved so that they fit in the block without clearance problems. If you want to boost safely on the motor past 8-9psi you will definately need at least some forged rods and pistons. Its scary how thing the stock rods are. Sleeves shouldn't be an issues unless you want some serious power. For 300whp you dont have to worry as long as you have a good tune and you aren't revving too high. I would either boost a y8 or a z6. Most parts are readily available for either or. Hope this helps.

DelSolDon

yep, helps a lot. keep 'em coming guys!

2muchboost2blow

with $4g's, i'd probably get an ls and turbo it. you'll be able to net more hp, have more torque, and be able to upgrade a lot more in the future if you decide you want more power. the d's are maxing out around 400hp. i've done 3 sohc turbos, now i'm through with them and getting an ls.

dr_latino999

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2muchboost2blow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">with $4g's, i'd probably get an ls and turbo it. you'll be able to net more hp, have more torque, and be able to upgrade a lot more in the future if you decide you want more power. the d's are maxing out around 400hp. i've done 3 sohc turbos, now i'm through with them and getting an ls.</TD></TR></TABLE> Actually Full-Race has a SOHC pushing in the 5xxwhp for someones girlfriend or sister I believe it was

DelSolDon

i'd get an LS, but since it's going in an EF, i'd have to get aftermarket mounts and axles. plus, like i said, am only looking at 300hp.

ggangtong81

not to hijack ur post, but how much boost can i run with greddy kit with my d16z6 motor? also, what are some stuff i must change other than arp head stud and head gaskets? thanks.

DelSolMike

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2muchboost2blow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">with $4g's, i'd probably get an ls and turbo it. you'll be able to net more hp, have more torque, and be able to upgrade a lot more in the future if you decide you want more power. the d's are maxing out around 400hp. i've done 3 sohc turbos, now i'm through with them and getting an ls.</TD></TR></TABLE>

D-series motors aren't maxing out at 400whp. Its more or less the persons wallet being maxed out. Sure B-series can make more power for less money but its the cost of the motor that kills you. For the cost of a complete swap he could easily meet his power goals. He's saying he has $4000 total for his project. Maybe he doesn't have deep pockets to build it and make a monster after the cost of the B swap and the turbo kit he can throw together. For $4g's you can make one hell of an impressive D-series monster if you put you money in the right places.

98_4drCivic

a common problem with the y7 or y8 is bearing failure. they had to make the oil journals smaller, and in turn there wasnt as much oil pressure. arp rod bolts, and main bolts should solve the problem

BlackCRX

other then what has already been mentioned
if you boost a y8 make sure you run a y8 map and not a z6 map

they have totally different ign tables

ITSME4G63

well, if youre going turbo , make sure you have the right elcetronics to monitor/manipulate certain variables.

An wideband kit, liek the one innovative sells, which is a gage and a o2 sensor with wire to hook and diplay the actual afr on the gage provided, its on sale for 359$ in the vendors turbo section. or you can get a plx which is a popular company as well.

a metal headgasket is always a nice way to play it safe, even though I see posted above about using a stock headgasket.

Get a good boost gage like a stewart warner (~60-80$), same goes for egt (200$ with probe kti included).

a Manual boost controller (50-100$ depends wjat brand/type) would do it but If you wanna go bling bling, get a greddy type s (around 300$ at worst on ebay)

You can use a 1g dsm bov which will suffice your use as I see that boosting past 10 psi aint your dream, but If you want the best, get either a tial or hks. (both about 250$ each depends where you go)

A intercooler, a johny racecar will do, the black anodizined one too, so stupid haters or dumbass ricers wont know or expect it, which should run you about 230$,

I dont know alot about honda chips/chipping, but I'v eheard that chrome and uberdata are cheap and really good to use for tuning, maybe there is a local tuner in you area, if not get a safc2 so you can wideband tune it yourself.

You would probably want new wires and plug and a distributor cap.

Make sure that the exhaust manifold gasket that youre getting is steel, non of that feldpro paper steel looking ****, and use the copper spray sealant just to make sure, you can never be too safe with this ****. You might also wanna get a metal type intake manifold gasket, make sure to get new throttle body gaskets and rtv the **** out of them too when you install em, unless you want to be taking everythign apart again, rtv is nice insurance so you wont need to do it again if anything.

I do not know what type of turbo you want to run on this thing but consider a external wastegate to be purchased unless yorue getting a internal gated on like a 18g or 16g, if not, I do have a 40mm hks external for sale .

A turbo timer woudl be nice if you can cope with sitting a min or two inside your runnign car so the turbo spins down.

consider the custom exhaust piping you will need to get, and if you dont have a muffler, get a nice magnaflow, they sound really nice.

if you can get integra brakes, do so, cause you will need braking!!!! if you cant, at least get powerslot rotors with ebc or hawk pads to prevent suicide.

consider the custom intercooler piping youre going to need. what about a turbo intake pipe? Ive read some turbo honda writeups using something liek a golden eagle vaccum box, you probably wil need one of those.

If you want to sheel out the extra 100-200 bux, an external oil cooler is a nice upgraade, you can find porfessional ones form a company called setrab, or if youre lucky enough to find a early 1990 talon tsi, eclipse gsx/gst or plymouth laser turbo in a junk yard, they come with an external oil cooler setup which you can rob the cooler from but the lines will probably nto work cause they are metal bent to certain angles, some of it is high strenght rubber though.

youre also goign to need larger injectors, you can get dsm injectors which would run you like 50$ on dsmtrader or ebay which are 450cc (yep we got 450cc stock) which are a nice cheap investment

also yo uwill need a better fuel pump, a walboro 190 or 255 or 255hp will suffice, they run for about 100$

so an overview of maintenance, make sure to get the proper gaskets (metal headgasket, exhaust and intake manifdold gaskets), make sure to get a valvecover gasket, or just buy a headgasket set, use teh copper gasket spray to make sure it all seals nice and use rtv as well on the intake side. oil and sparkplugs and spark plug wires and a new distributor cap, I know there is **** missing which I shouldve posted but thats all I can think of now.

ITSME4G63

oh, and get arp hardware, trust me you wont regret it, get arp headstuds, main and rod bolts.

DelSolDon

^^nice post. it seems you FI guys are a little more willing to help with info rather than most of the NA guys.

DelSolMike

iTrader: (1)

Just remember if you go afc, you will need something to adjust your timing with. When adding fuel/leaning it out with the afc also advances/retards your timing which can lead to detonation. You'd be better off with a standalone unit such as hondata, Überdata, chrome or something of the such. Then you wont have to mess with the ignition system at all for the most part, but for 300whp I recommend stage 2 colder spark plugs.


Modified by DelSolMike at 10:22 PM 8/19/2005

DelSolDon

yea, i'm planning on either uberdata or crome.

Bserieskllr

ill sell you some tunertoys rods, there pretty much like the older eagles and tunertoys also says that nothcing is not required they sell them on the site for 225 plus shipping, mine are brand new in box and ill sell them for 220 shipped.

ggangtong81

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ggangtong81 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not to hijack ur post, but how much boost can i run with greddy kit with my d16z6 motor? also, what are some stuff i must change other than arp head stud and head gaskets? thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

somebody please answer this...thanks. lots of good info on d series here

dr_latino999

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITSME4G63 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh, and get arp hardware, trust me you wont regret it, get arp headstuds, main and rod bolts.</TD></TR></TABLE> They have mainstuds available for the D-Series? I never see them listed.

DelSolDon

looking at connecting rods right now, which one's let you just drop them in w/o notching the block?

DelSolDon

also, what about pistons? i'm not planning on boring the block out, so what are my best choices? i'm assuming that i want to stay around 9:1 compression. what is the deal with the suzuki vitara pistons? are they that good, or are they just cheap?

ITSME4G63

anything over 9:1 on a boosted car, and youre on racegas the rest of its life.

THe arp mains, I do not know ifd they make for d series, maybe you shoudl call arp up, I was speaking arp hardware in general.

Bserieskllr

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bserieskllr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ill sell you some tunertoys rods, there pretty much like the older eagles and tunertoys also says that nothcing is not required they sell them on the site for 225 plus shipping, mine are brand new in box and ill sell them for 220 shipped.</TD></TR></TABLE>

DelSolDon

ok, now that i've read some more, i guess that it would be best to bore out to 75.5mm so that I am sure that the piston to wall clearance will be good. also found that notching the block is pretty easy and i should be able to do it. so how about some good rod/piston setups? 9:1 comp, 75.5mm, forged?

and b-series killer, i see ya. just not ready to buy anything right now except for a block and a head which i have already located.


Modified by DelSolDon at 8:45 PM 8/19/2005

DelSolDon

what's the difference between the eagle "esp" rods and the "extreme duty" rods?

and JE or CP pistons? anybody got a weight on the CP's? the JE's are 236g, but can't find a spec on the CP's


Modified by DelSolDon at 11:09 PM 8/19/2005