b16racereg6

iTrader: (2)

To close to quit now, even if it cost a few bucks keep on trucking! Looks good man!

Aquafina

iTrader: (3)

Just stick with it. At least finish it and enjoy it for a while.

NonovUrbizniz

Unedited vloggy video of the last few weeks bringing it from having sat for 7 years to up and running

NonovUrbizniz

Whelp... I guess I'm all in... again... now.

Got the wheels off last weekend, dropped them off at Townfair got 4 new 205/50/15 Nitto Neo Gens. Those are now mounted and balanced and ready to go on the car.

I ordered all the orings for the Throttle Body so I can rebuild the IACV and FITV to resolve the idle issue.

I ordered a bunch of lubricants, silicone, anti seize, urea, dielectric grease. I'm going to be nutting/bolting plugging/unplugging a ton of stuff so might as well refresh it all.

Ordered a Driver's door handle to replace the one I pulled off lol.

2 Autozone axels are on the way, Driver side outer boot was blown and figured I might as well get both since they were 75ea.

I'm going to do the direct power wiring to the fuel pump, I think it's just janky connection at the fuel pump but it failed to prime a bunch of times until I popped the connector on and off a few times, then worked fine (that's why I got the dielectric grease).

I also ordered an Innovative Mounts Traction Bar.

Should have the axles, wheels, and fuel pump wiring done by Saturday. Then I am going to take a day trip up to my parents house for a visit and to pick up the title to get it re-registered next week sometime.

After it's registered I'm going to try to get the turbo stuff put on and get the project finished. I really only need to sort out the oil drain and the intercooler piping.. I have enough spare pieces that I could get it put together good enough to get it somewhere, or I might get in touch with a friend of mine who welds and have him help out.

I think my brother would kill me if I didn't drive it off his property before I started taking it apart again to put the turbo stuff on lol.. and it will be waaaaay easier to work on with it at my place.

DaX

iTrader: (1)

Nice! All in is the only way.

Txdragon

Baby steps! See it through, brother!!

NonovUrbizniz

Holy ****, it's not even 3pm and everything has showed up, axles, greases, honda parts, even the traction bar... I guess I better get up to my brother's house.

Txdragon

Soooo... Any progress?

NonovUrbizniz

Friday I was working from home and it was busier than I expected, then had lots of stuff to take care of at home, so I couldn't head up to my brothers.

Got up there today finally at 230.

Got the new door handle installed... twice lol, I forgot to swap the lock cylinder and had to take it back off.

Got the wheels/tires mounted.

My brother was in town this time, so he wanted to hear it run, so ran it up to temperature again. There is a super scary intermittent noise that sounds like a nut clanging around. It's really weird. I used a screwdriver to listen to everything and it's not coming from inside the engine? It did the same thing last time I ran it... its really confusing. You can hear it in the video I uploaded, you can see me semi-freaking out about it too. I'm 99.9999 percent sure it's not knocking.

Got the Bar portion of the Traction Bar installed... going to do the rest when I get to the axles and bearings.

Didn't rebuild the throttle body since I ran the car up to temperature.

Also didn't wire the direct power/relay for the fuel pump.

I'm most likely going to go up to my parents house tomorrow and grab the title, then I can get it insured and registered next week... do some test drives around his house, change the oil, and then drive it back to my place to finish up the turbo project.

I should REALLY get the axles done at my brothers before I bring it back to my place, so might do that before driving it all the way back to my place.... my garage at my condo is crazy narrow, so it will be a bitch to work on anything on either side of the car.

NonovUrbizniz

I have today and tomorrow off, hopefully going to get the exhaust on the car, rebuild the FTV, wire the fuel pump, then should be all good to register it tomorrow.

Here's a video from the other week when I swapped the wheels:

NonovUrbizniz

Completely forgot what a nightmare the spring bolts were/are... I got one bolt in, I just can't seem to get the other in... it's making me seriously regret putting it back together NA, Hopefully I'll get it sorted out tomorrow or Saturday.

Got the FTV rebuilt, idle is much better, I think it needs another little adjustment to set the cold idle a little higher but it's much better than before.

Went through a bunch of the bins I packed up at my brother's place, trying to sort out what's where and if it's all ready... found the extra injector orings I thought I had but couldn't find. Found a bunch of stuff, couldn't find a bunch more I thought I had moved. Will probably use the rain day tomorrow to go up to his house again and load up some more parts try to get everything in one place.

Looked into Hagerty insurance and it's a no-brainer, I can get the car insured for 12k replacement value for under 900/year, my regular insurance company almost wanted that much and would KBB the car if stolen or damaged.

If that gets all cleared tomorrow I can register the car and find out if I have to smog it or not. Picking up a spring bolt at autozone tomorrow hoping it might have some more length on the threaded section to make it easier to start the nut...will bring some clamps too that might help get it cinched up...

DaX

iTrader: (1)

I like to use a large pair of channel locks. I put the spring bolt in place, then use the large channel locks to grab the head of the bolt in one jaw and the manifold flange in the other jaw. When you squeeze the pliers, it compresses the spring and pushes the bolt through, and you can hold it with one hand while you thread on the nut with the other hand.

NonovUrbizniz

Yeah, that's what I was doing, It worked fine for one, but the problem is that the aftermarket header flange is like 1/8" further towards the engine than it should be. I remembered half way through, when I first installed the header, we had to grind off 3 coils from the spring, my buddy used an ENORMOUS pair of channel locks to squeeze the two flanges together, and then I used a big pair of channel locks to compress the spring and push the bolt through.

I think I'll be able to get it with a c clamp on the flanges and channel locks on the bolt. If not. I think I'm just going to say F' it and put on all the turbo stuff... or I might just get some threaded rod and washers and gerry rig it.

I'm also thinking about heading back up and getting some of the gauges installed, and getting the fuel pump wired, maybe re-do the grounds. Not sure if I'm going to get the Hagerty proof of insurance before tomorrow.

I also realized I have a TON more little stuff to do:

- Rear Shocks/Springs - I had the original GC/Koni kit which used a collar to use larger diameter threaded sections on the koni shocks, I got sent a free set of the new threaded sections that match the diameter of the shocks. I only did the fronts apparently cuz I found the rears in a box lol.
- Rear Brakes - I think I need rotors and pads, parking brake isn't working either
- Front Sway Bar
- Radius Arms for Traction Bar
- Wire Fuel Pump
- Wire Gauges
- Wire Stereo
- Order Carpet
- Install Driver Door Panel + speakers
- Install Seats

NonovUrbizniz

Got the Hagerty Insurance approved and set... they re-evaluated the policy and brought it down to under 600 bucks/year maintaining the 12k replacement value.

NonovUrbizniz

Oh man, long day, got it registered, headed straight up to my brother's house by 1 or 2. The brake light switch return pad had broken off, so I got one at Autozone popped that on, changed the oil/filter, added oil to the transmission, cut down the spring on the exhaust bolt that wouldn't catch, installed the rest of the exhaust, the whole resonator back was in one piece so I had to unbolt the lower control arm and snake the exhaust through to attach it. I washed the car, and then ran it re-bled the coolant system after rebuilding the FTV the other day... then FINALLY at like 9 o'clock at night... I drove it on the street... I really babied it and didn't go over 4k in any gear, but went through all the gears, knocked SOME of the scale off the rotors... I think I definitely need new rear pads and rotors, but I'll give it another cruise before buying those.

It's a really weird feeling, I'm not sure I've even processed it, I was pretty burned out/tired by the time I actually got to drive it.

Txdragon

Nothing beats a good ol' resurrection!!

NonovUrbizniz

So happy, just found the last 2 missing bits... the 6 gauge cluster I've been searching high and low for since I started the project back up, and the mac boost controller... Phew! that was a HUGE relief.

While I was up there I swapped on a passenger side corner light and bulb for the time being, double checked the fluids, looked for any drips under it, and there were none.

NonovUrbizniz

Been slow few weeks, got some minor stuff done, still have lots to do. Got it to my buddy's gas station, going to do the rear wheel bearings and brakes tomorrow, hook up the radius arms to the traction bar, and set the base timing and then drive it home.

Should be able to get some things done on it at my house at night during the week some nights maybe. Hopefully get the front wheel bearings, axles, and swaybar done next week (maybe monday).

Then Ideally, I'd like to get some of the gauges installed so I have some baseline references, I'm confident about my oil pressure, and I know what temps the oil is normally at.

Then, I've got my Y8 intake manifold, RC 525 cc Injectors, AEM fuel rail/fpr, hondata map sensor, I can swap on and get setup in hondata... then it's really just a matter of installing/plumbing the turbo and getting it tuned.

Hopefully tuned by end of June?

DaX

iTrader: (1)

Nice. You planning on driving it any between installing the injectors and the turbo?

Txdragon

^^ This

NonovUrbizniz

If there's an offset compensation in the fuel injector area of Smanage that I think I can figure out I will install them and maybe drive it a bit... I'd kind of like to have as much sorted and working before going to the tuner. The intake with injectors and 4bar should just be a matter of changing the injector type and sensor type I think? I haven't messed with Hondata in a long time though.

I'm pretty sure I can pull off a street tune, that was the point of getting the WB02 and EGT gauge... but those are both waiting for the turbo/manifold/downpipe to get installed... so I might just do it all at once? I dunno.

Once I get the rear end buttoned up today though, I should feel a lot more comfortable doing all the break in I need on the engine... I've already revved it into Vtec a few times, so once the brakes and suspension are good in the rear I should be able to rev it up to redline-ish... still not sure where that is with the springs/retainers, and want to have my oil pressure gauge on before I start trying to figure that out... more than likely I'll have the dyno guys do that once they have a solid map... heads not ported so I doubt it flows very well over 7200 anyway... never felt like it was still climbing in power when I over revved it before the rebuild.

Txdragon

The rev limit doesn't technically change when you upgrade the valvetrain, it just makes going over that limit safer, if that makes sense..

Also, the Z6 head flows really well at higher RPM vs other D heads. The Y8 flows good down low, the Z6 better mid and high. At 7200, it will flow well, especially with the right cam.

DaX

iTrader: (1)

I'm running the 4-bar sensor and 1000cc injectors now without a turbo, and I do recommend shaking it down at some point before you go to get it tuned. I'm running a wideband already though, which made me feel better about installing the injectors ahead of the tuning session. It sounds like you've been in the game before, so I'm sure you'll figure it out!

NonovUrbizniz

Got the rear brakes done, got the strut bolt in and drove it some more. My buddy ordered the wrong rear bearings (they're fine anyway).

Didn't manage to get the car back to my place though, maybe still tonight if I can find a ride back up there, or maybe tomorrow.

Ripped it up to 7-8k a few times, runs strong feels good... I was reminded why revving past 7200 was good, it drops you into Vtec in the next gear.

Pads were brand new on one side and almost entirely worn on the other side, parking brake still doesn't work so I'm definitely going to need rebuilt calipers in the rear... fun fun. They're dirt cheap though so not a huge deal. Fronts have scraped themselves pretty clean, pretty much all the noise is gone. Pedal didn't feel great, it had more travel than I remembered, but never hit the floor or anything... I didn't really push it or test it too much. I'll see how it is after replacing the calipers and bleeding it.

My friend had to get going so I didn't get much else done.

It was awesome working on the car on a lift again though. Felt really nice to drive it around not entirely petrified of the strut bolt popping out. Front drive axle and wheel bearing are both bad so I'm still not comfortable romping on it too hard.

I tried plugging the VSS in twice and Speedo is still not working... it's a brand new factory VSS, I seem to remember having this problem before and it was the cluster connection, I'll figure it out when I finally plug the laptop into the S300.

The stock z6 O2 is wideband so I might just use those readings off the s300 to tune it with the injectors/map sensor.

DaX

iTrader: (1)

I'm pretty sure it's narrow band. I thought only the Z1 had a stock wide band.