bigodub93

Lolo lol lol Ya this is crazy. The main point is that the damn thing won't cut off. It comes on when it is told but it doesn't cut off. I gotta find out what we're missing.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Have you checked to make sure the relay opens the circuit when power is cut? If the relay I sticking it could be your problem.

bigodub93

What I do know is when I had the grey wire to a body ground it still stayed on. but I left the car running and disconnected from the ground and the fan cut off. Touched it back to ground and it turned back on. So the relay must be functioning correctly it just me not knowing where the hell the grey wire really goes

underrated

iTrader: (3)

I suggested to re pin the relay so you have the 2 fatter wires for power. I'll take a pic of mine. I have 10 gauge wire for all 4 wires because of the spal fan I'm using. If you re pin, the color of the wire don't matter. Where it goes on the relay does.

85 is the signal wire that tells the fan to turn on.
87 goes to the fan positive

LightningTeg

How is the fan being triggered by the ECU? Did you set the temperature or is it going off of the factory fan switch?

You can easily test this. Just hookup the laptop, set the activation temp to something low so the car doesnt need to be warm and click it on and off. Or you can take a meter to the fan switch (+) and see if its sending 12V when the fan is not supposed to be on.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

I told you how to wire it

You dont need to depin anything

If you want to make sure its all working right disconnect the fan switch on the thermostat housing

If you disconnect that then the fan should turn off

Connect a laptop and check your coolant temps too

bigodub93

The fan is triggering the ecu the same way it was stock. Nothing else has been altered.i will check it out with the laptop. What temp should the fan turn on and off at so I can make sure my parameters are set correctly in Hondata?

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

I think stock is 188 i could be wrong on that

Def put a laptop and see what its doing temp wise

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

So you're 100% that you're using the correct OEM wiring for the fan circuit?

If you've got the wrong pin on the ecu or the wrong ground/sensor/switch/12v+ it can cause issues.

Without the ignition on does the fan run?
With the ignition on but engine off does the fan run?
What happens in these situations if you remove the grey wire?

bigodub93

Car was pretty much Unaltered when I bought it so that's why I say it is all stock. All the wires look untouched. I have a obd2b-obd1 jumper harness with the obd1 p28 ecu. If that makes any difference.

Fan won't run with ignition off
The fan does turn on with the engine off and ignition turned to the second position
When I remove the grey wire the fan does not turn on at all.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Your wiring is fine if you connected it like i said

That part is done lets move on to some data of what the temps are doing

Get it to a laptop and we go from there

bigodub93

So started the car once it reached 170 the fan cut on. Let the car sit there and idle about 15 min and the temp never went below 167. And the fan never cut off. Went for a drive got a few hard pulls in and the temp gauge went to 203 then came back home let it idle about 10 min and the temp went down to 196-199. Fan still on.

Picture is when I first started the car

$amGD3

you did buy a PULLER fan right?


may seem like a stupid question but just double checking

bigodub93

Yes I did. It's on the box also. And I can feel it such air from the front and blow behind the radiator

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Get to this parameter and see what temp its at

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Honestly you might have other cooling problems because i have the same fan as you and itll hit 185 then drop the temp to 170 and it keeps oscillating


if your temp isnt droping at idle then something isnt right. that's a big *** fan

bigodub93

The override fanc is not enabled. And my overheat protection is at 220.

bigodub93

Does it make any difference that it is 92 degrees out here right now

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

nope. I drove my car last week and it was 99 out

bigodub93

Lol I'm done. I just can't win. Cause getting hot would lead to tuing issues right cause block checked out.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Check that box for the radiator
set it to 185 and the speed to 35

Let it cool down for an hour or 2 and warm it up again and watch the temps.

That fan at a cold idle should drop the temps of the coolant.

bigodub93

Thanks for all the damn help. I'll check the box before I go to work and when I make it to work ( 30min drive) I'll let it idle and see where to temp is and report back

bigodub93

Drove the car hard to work and temp only reached 204. Parked the car and let it idle for 15 min and it stayed at 189. Overall this is a big improvement from where I started a week ago. My temp gauge would raise to 3/4 after 10-15 min if driving regular. Now it stays below half like any other Honda. I didn't know how to work s300 when I first started have the problem so I couldn't log temps.nut is 204 bad at all.

LightningTeg

I have my fan to kick on at 195. Seems to be the most reasonable givin the temp the thermostat opens at.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

So did the fan cycle on and off at idle? Your target temp is 199 so the fan should turn on at that temp then turn off below that. Unless thats not how hondata works. I havent used it in a while.

Aem has 2 target points for temp.

On above 188
Off below 178


Also i would lower the rev limit on the over heat protection

Something like 5k