BodyKits NW

Here is a link to my old post and original dyno.


So today I went to Intec Racing to do a lil tuning since I was in the Seattle Area. The guys over there are hella cool, and getting me in for an hour was pretty easy.
Anyways here is the dyno plot with RPM rather than speed.

Notes: I can't seem to get rid of that dip in the 6.5-7k range. I am not sure exactly what it causing that. My timing looks good, as well as my air fuel ratio. The guys at Intec said it might be because of my spark plug gap being at .035. I actually switched from a MSD Ignition back to Stock. During tuning I noticed that my real gain was on top and I didn't gain much before 8k which was kinda weird. So going from 12.0 to 12.5 didn't yield me much more power as you can see. So before I hit the street I added a few points to the fuel map since the o2 reading I was getting from the dyno was from a tailpipe wideband o2. I did a few more pulls on the way home to richen it up a lil bit. But anyways, the car seems to be running real strong, but my torque seems to not be as flat as my last dyno session. Any tips or suggestions from the pros?

10psi: IT WAS RICHENED UP WHEN I HIT THE FREEWAY.



Timing and Fuel Map





Modified by BodyKits NW at 12:22 AM 10/19/2005

Dunc

How much boost is that on? You may want to rich that A/F up to at least 12:1 just for safety sake. Maybe its just me, but do you guys think the torque is a bit low? I'm not familar with ITR motors and what they make...all I know is that my ls/vtec just made 323whp and 245wtq on a mustang dyno.

BodyKits NW

I added some fuel when I hit the hwy. This was tuned for 10lbs.

planeman01

looks like it might need some touching up as far as a/f's go under 5k...my af's are about the same on 6psi but i doubt it'd hurt to drop it down to 12.0:1....i'm not a tuner by any means...just my input....

SAY HI TO TODD!
he's my Boo!

flip1199

what happened between 6000-6500 and 7500-8000?

BodyKits NW

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by flip1199 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what happened between 6000-6500 and 7500-8000?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have no ******* clue what happened there. Still tryin to figure it out. The torque isn't that low since it was only 10psi of boost.

This was just a 1 hour tuning session to give me a idea of where I was at. I will add more fuel, and play with timing. I also did not get a chance to mess with the cam gear settings on the Rocket Motorsports M21 Cams he made me.




Modified by BodyKits NW at 12:38 AM 10/19/2005

Blackack26

wow... thats alot of power on 10psi, do you mind sharing your setup?

swlabhot

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blackack26 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow... thats alot of power on 10psi, do you mind sharing your setup?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Looks likea huge *** turbo judging by the spooling characteristics and that much power at 10psi

Dunc

and holy crap thats alot of timing....24* @ 10psi

espanol

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dunc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and holy crap thats alot of timing....24* @ 10psi </TD></TR></TABLE>

i bet those pistons are going to end up looking like the sausage biscuit i had for breakfast.

BodyKits NW

I highly doubt that. I have seen setups less crazy than mine run more timing than that daily with no problems. It depends on how effecient your setup is, some cars like more timing than others. Btw, just to let you know my AF right now is 11.9. When the car was back on the road it was tuned back to 12.3 down to 11.9. Generally the larger the bore, the more timing the motor wants. I have a 84.5mm bore with a Fully Built Alaniz head. My motor makes great power without me having to run larger turbos like the T3/T67. The compression is also 9.5:1 and the motor is just really effecient.

The turbo is not that big, it's just a Gt35e, I made the same power with my Innovative GT61 SC61 Killer. This is just your basic 61 GT Compressor. I make full boost at about 4850-5000rpms.

0mtber

iTrader: (2)

Did you use the dyno to find your timing values or did you just guess ?
I would recommend a gap of .30 or .28 I find it to work a little better in most cases.

BodyKits NW

Well I used my timing values from my last tune when I went to Torque Freaks. I actually ran a lil more timing on my last tune when I was at Torque Freaks and I have driven my car probably 4,000 miles since then. I've torn it apart and the motor is excellent condition. I had a base timing calibration I used and then modified it from there. Since this setup is slightly different, I lowered my timing values and mostly played with fuel when I was on the dyno to give myself a generally idea if I lost any power since then.

blundar

24 degrees timing at 10psi isn't that much, especially for a PR3 head and a big bore motor. I'm also guessing he's running ~9:1 slugs in which case 24 degrees is on the conservative side. Running flat timing is silly however...

I'd highly recommend you find the manual for Subaru's Utec and take a look at their short tuning blurb. It's really fairly decent advice, and advice you desperately need to follow.

The way to fix those dips in your torque curve and keep the top end alive longer is TIMING not fuel adjustments.

0mtber

iTrader: (2)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BodyKits NW &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well I used my timing values from my last tune when I went to Torque Freaks. I actually ran a lil more timing on my last tune when I was at Torque Freaks and I have driven my car probably 4,000 miles since then. I've torn it apart and the motor is excellent condition. I had a base timing calibration I used and then modified it from there. Since this setup is slightly different, I lowered my timing values and mostly played with fuel when I was on the dyno to give myself a generally idea if I lost any power since then. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Next time you get on the dyno & have done some research on tuning your ignition timing, tune your timing values

BodyKits NW

I've tuned my ignition maps. This is not even close to the map I used prior to my last tune. The timing map I used for this run was derived from a old base calibration I tuned down just to see how much power my car was making with the larger cam. This is by all means is not a full tune. I just rented the dyno just to give me a idea of where my power was. Out of like 10 runs, I changed timing on the dyno 1 time. This timing map you see is a coservative map I use just to give me a gerneral idea of what my engine is doing. Next time I will play with my ignition timing more, as well as my cam gear settings. Since I know I dynoed about the same as last time, I am extremely happy.

Axel Foley

sorry to be off topic, but how do you like those cams? did they make much of a difference in power or the way it comes on(spool)? do they idle like stock? once you play with your timing and camgears you should post the results.

BodyKits NW

I like the Rocket Motorsports cams. They idle like stock, I got them idling with the 880cc at like 1000 rpms. I can only see the power getting better from here. Dependin on your setup I would run the M20 or M21 cam with no hesitation.

blundar

Your old timing map was much better. Read plugs, read plugs more, tune the car to what it wants.

xyrth

i'm a honda n00b, so, what's the weird bump/dip in your fuel curve?

BodyKits NW

I have a weird fluctuation there, but with my timing map changed up a lil bit, that hump is gone. Well from what my datalogs show it is, I will do a full pull tomorrow.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

the a/f sampling was taken from the tailpipe correct? then the actual reading at the motor is more like 11:5:1 so richening it up was probably a bad idea

BodyKits NW

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wantboost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the a/f sampling was taken from the tailpipe correct? then the actual reading at the motor is more like 11:5:1 so richening it up was probably a bad idea</TD></TR></TABLE>

That is correct, and I thought that it would be safe when the car was on the hwy, but after doing a full pull after getting off the dyno it ran pretty lean. So I had to add fuel to bring it back down to safe levels. So you are right about the datalogs, but the actual difference coming off the dyno and back to the road actually made it pretty lean like 12.5-9 in some areas. From the logs it ran about 1 point leaner. I always check the AF right after I get off the dyno to make sure everything is in check. Usually it doesn't lean out that much at all. Maybe it being 65 degree's outside and actually getting some air flow made the huge difference.


Modified by BodyKits NW at 10:54 PM 10/19/2005

boosted k20

timing looks fine to me for a 2.0 liter and lower compression pistons.

what did u set ur VTEC to? u might wanna try to set it a bit earlier to get rid of that flat spot in the HP curve from around 6.2-6.6K. try seting VTEC to enagage at around 6K

_gurusan_

What's that missing chunk around 8700 rpm? Looks like ignition problems?

BTW I'm going to run an ITS SC61killer on my b16...these numbers make me very excited.