x8_andrew_8x

well ive been out of the game for a while almost 2 years and i have the type r just sitting there i started on it but i never finished.. i was actually planning on building it for nitrous but i figured i would rather have horse power all the time instead of filling my bottle. heres what ive dont so far. i really need every little detail on what to get and how to do things and how much things are going to cost. i want it perfect.

so far the entire bottom end is totally stock but i want to replace everything water and oil pump etc. I have the head almost fully built but without a port and polish im not sure if it would be that much of a diference.

HEAD
- 3 angle valve job
- Stage 2 Skunk 2 cams
- REV springs and retainers
- head is shave by 7 thousands i guess thats how u would say it lol

BLOCK
-totally stock
? -What compression ratio pistons should i get
There is alot i need to learn just tell me exatcly what i neeed to do and point me in the right direction please! thanks guys!

spoolin turbo s

9.0 to 1 but with the head shaved i don't know what that would actually make it you may need to get 8.5to1 to get 9to1 due to the head being shaved im really not sure how much that shaving of the head will effect your CR

spoolin turbo s

just remember the lower the compression the more boost you can run on pump gas generally thats how it works
thats why d's with vitara setups can run tons of boost on pump because a d with vitara's with normal rods is something like 7.5 to 1 CR

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

What is not said in this statement is the fact that simply because you run more manifold pressure, doesn't change the output of the power of the turbo whether it is 7.5:1 or 10.0:1. If you pick the wrong turbocharger, it may be out of its efficiency range given a pressure rating. Running big pressure on pump means very little, if your acceleration rate will drop as a result of it because it takes more boost to get the same effective compression that you would have if you kept it at stock STATIC compression.

Tuning it propertly even with your stock engine will work WONDERS at your stock compression for the Type R. No need to drop it as long as the goals that you're looking for are realistic..

x8_andrew_8x

so honestly which pistons should i get for the block and should i sleeve it or do u think the block will hold over 400whp?

92civicx

people are gonna say that its all about the tune that your sleeves will be fine, but if its a bad tune then the sleeves will give out. if your doing the whole nine on the block then i would get sleeves if you have the money. then you'll have more options for the future

integrawow

Yeah, I get tired of hearing that same old bullsh#t too. I mean, I think that's all they can say. "TOON, toon, toooooooooooooooon." Yes, we all know it's important, but ease up "TOOOOOOONERS." LOL

LOL, anyhow, you need to get a goal first for the RANGE of power you want this b motor to make. Everything mechanical part of the rotating assembly (i.e., rods, pistons, crank, cylinder walls, etc.) has a realistic horsepower limit. Seriously.

x8_andrew_8x

well im looking to get a little over 400hp

atec

An easy setup that would go long with the right tune.(we made this bottom end combo hold 527,6whp b18c6 on pumpgas and stock sleeves the 4th year with street driving and auto-x with over 400whp now)

-9:1 comp pistons, (if you get 9,5:1 bc of your shaved head, dont worry)
-eagle rods
-supertech valvetrain (the R valvestem are reduced from around 5,47mm to 4.5right under the valveguide) a stem that breaks actually do more damage that if a sleeve cracks open.
if you go with 1000-1200cc injectors you can also run E85.

Psychoteen101

If you want it to last, sleeve it at those numbers. Dont listen to all the bull ******** on here that will come on and say, "well, i have 560hp on my bone stock type r for 5 years with no problems". Blah Blah Blah. Just caue someone else has done it with no issues, doesnt mean its gonna be the same for you. Only thing you can do is try and make that motor as bullet proof as you can then make sure you get the best tune you can get.

atec

If you refere to me, I only told him the bottom end setup, you really dont need sleeved bottom end for 400whp, I have built and tuned 12-13 b18c stocksleeved engines in Norway with over 400whp on pump gas. that has no problem with it, and they last

The 527whp setup was just an indication that you dont have to sleeve but it will hold just fine with forged internals, If the tuning is bad no sleeve in the world will last. the main thing with a stock block is that you balance on a thinner edge with pumpgas. to low ignition and the engine will break up, to high it will crack a sleeve, and the line between to early and to low is narrowed as power and cylinderpresshure rise.

Get jeff evans, mase or someone in your area with experience to tune your stocksleeved built engine and 400whp will be no issue with the right parts.