gutted-dx

iTrader: (1)

Turbonetics 5454 and no it's not water cooled. I'm actually waiting on my taxes and I'm finally gonna order that Silver Surfer.

Something I've noticed about driving the car is 1st and 2nd gear, 95% of the time, as soon as it starts to build boost it will it hit boost cut. I tried boosting in 1st 5 or 6 times and only one of the times it would boost all the way to redline without falling on its face. All other gears it pulls all the way to redline without a problem. Could this be something to do with the boost solenoid? What can I do to diagnose this?

*** can turbo blankets prematurely wear out the turbo because of overheating the oil? I googled it and it seems like that could be a possibility though I haven't seen any failures because of the blanket.
Thanks
Joe

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I've never wanted to go full boost pressure or hit boost city in 1st, in an FWD application, so I guess I can't see a problem, but I'll gladly investigate that for you.

what ever you read on Google about blankets prematurely killing turbos due to overheating, no, it doesn't happen. If EGTS are higher than usual, you would hurt the turbo anyway, but not from some turbo blanket.

2kdrift

I have not had that issue with my mac 4 port ever, although I cant get past about 7 psi in 1st anyway as it will spin tires. do you have any onfo on the 5454 how much power it made or even a dyno graph?

gutted-dx

iTrader: (1)

I did multiple datalogs in first gear and I found boost was hitting 17psi. Boost cut is set at 15. I turned off the PWM in the s300 and and the boost cutting problem went away. I then looked at the boost by gear and for 1st and 2nd gear it was set at 0. I then set boost the same in 1st and 2nd as the rest of the gears and it boosted fine just spun the tires. So my question is why would the boost by gear be zero making the wastegate stay closed forcing it to hit boost cut? I turned the PWM back on and the problem came back (hitting boost cut). Is there something I'm missing here? When it was running off the wastegate pressure only it would hit 11psi but would not hit boost cut.

I do have a Dyno graph, I can upload it tomorrow. Im running a 3 port mac solenoid.

Joe

extremeracer

You have the solenoid configured the "wrong" way in the Hondata software. There are two types, Normally Open and Normally closed. It sounds like you have the opposite type selected to your actual setup, so with a 0% duty it is actually driving the solenoid at 100%, switching the configuration around should solve your issue and go back to running spring pressure at 0%

gutted-dx

iTrader: (1)

Ok by switching it around will I have to re-enter the duty cycle numbers since they will be working the opposite way? I've had this problem since it was dyno tuned so I don't want to mess something up because I'm new at this. I don't know if that makes any sense haha. Also I'll try and get some screen shots up.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Nice catch!! . I know how to utilize and manipulate boost control systems, but not on laptop control. I've always been one to like independent control outside of the fuel trim. So, although I know what I want the solenoid to do, on S Manager, I too don't know, how its to be perform

gutted-dx

iTrader: (1)

So all i need to do is change the soleniod configuration and its good? I dont need to do anything with the 1st and 2nd gear on the table below? Now that i'm typing this it is making more sense just wanna make sure.

2kdrift

You should be fine, there really isnt any adjustment done by your tuner anyway you only have 2 separate boost levels from what I can see...1st and second on spring pressure and 3-5th are on the Higher boost level.

take it out and see what it does noting what each duty cycle gives you in PSI, and go form there

LightningTeg

You need to put it on fixed duty cycle first and make sure it works.

gutted-dx

iTrader: (1)

The problem is it is hitting boost cut (16psi and i logged it at 17psi) because I'm assuming the wastegate is still closed. I turned off the boost by gear and it hit 11psi which is the spring pressure. I want the wastegate to open at spring pressure in 1-2nd. I haven't had a chance to try switching it to setting suggested a couple post back. I just don't want to hit boost cut in 1-2.

LightningTeg

Report back when you actually made change. It sounds like its that NO / NC Checkbox.

You can verify its working right by setting it to fixed duty cycle, 50%, activation pressure should be in vacuum somewhere so you can turn key on engine off and listen to it clicking.

extremeracer

Ok here is how you do it, and this method applies when making any change to your wastegate or turbo setup:

Step 1: Select "Fixed Duty Cycle" under Control options
Step 2: Enter 10% in the box next to fixed duty cycle >> This will simulate the base pressure of the setup
Step 3: Test the car either on the road in minimum 3rd gear or on a dyno in 4th gear
Step 4: Record the actual gauge boost pressure (or Hondata MAP sensor reading) that is produced >> This should = wastegate pressure
Step 5: Draw up a little matrix either in Excel or on a sheet of paper where you record A) the duty cycle [10%] and B) the resultant boost [xx psi]
Step 6: Enter 20% in the box next to fixed duty cycle
Step 7: Repeat Steps 3-5 and increase the duty cycle progressively till you reach your maximum intended boost pressure

Step 8: Plug the duty cycle and resultant boost pressure into the "Pressure vs Duty Cycle" table on the software
Step 9: Select "Gear based duty cycle" under control options
Step 10: Plug your target boost per gear values into the Gear/RPM table

Enjoy BBG !

PS: Most solenoids are non responsive up to ~20% where-after increased duty cycle leads to a corresponding increase in boost. But be careful and go slowly so you don't overshoot your maximum "safe" boost pressure.

For activation pressure I have mine set to just above "0 vacuum" so input something like 0.5 psi or the closest allowed value. You can set this to vacuum for the test like Lightning Teg suggested

gutted-dx

iTrader: (1)

Just ordered my Silver Surfer! Finally put this built motor to abuse!

paul_a

Awesome, looking forward to this build been abused on the road

gutted-dx

iTrader: (1)

Anyone have experience with gsc t1 cams with a log manifold? I read some but not all of the 59 pages on the cams but didn't see a log manifold used. What I did see was TheShodan saying they were ideal for the SS that I'm going to use. I have a set of 1st Gen pro1s but I don't wanna go through the trouble of degreeing them haha. The t1s are drop in. Or just trade the pro1s for ctrs?

2kdrift

I dont think there are much gains to be had on a log, many times ive seen the most knowlegable people on here state that gsr/ITR is the best you can get on a log manifold.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

No. you can use a log manifold with those camshafts. the one example you're pointing to was a situation in which the cylinder head was too lowly shaven to effectively use the GSCs. It wasn't because of the camshaft itself.
The log manifold is limited more by backpressure from the size of the turbo, not the camshaft in these cases.

gutted-dx

iTrader: (1)

Ok I'm gonna order a set of t1s. I have upgraded springs and retainers but I'm not sure of the brand. They were supposed to be ferrea but I'm not sure, I'll take some pics and post them to see if they can be identified. If I feel like replacing them whats a good setup? I remember hearing Rocket had a snap fitting style that helped against wear on the retainers.

AZ_CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

Let me know if you need some real Ferrea Valve Springs and Retainers because I have some for sale.

gutted-dx

iTrader: (1)

This is what i have at the moment. PM me the details on the ferrea AZ.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Please make sure that you're using the right spring seat pressure to work with those camshafts. That needs to be at least 85lbs-91lbs seat pressure in order to work with these camshafts.
Don't do yourself a disservice; Know the specifications of what you're buying and where you're getting it from and to make sure that it works with the rest of your valvetrain!!
Don't just buy anything because it's new. Make sure that it works with the rest of the setup.

AZ_CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

those are not ferrea, ferrea stamps there retainers with ferrea along with the series number like E11000.

i will PM you in the morning with some details.

gutted-dx

iTrader: (1)

Haha I know that! I was looking more for direction in what brand to go with but I'll just check out ferrea. I'm looking for reliability with the retainers also. I don't wanna have to worry about them wearing out so I'm not to worried about weight.

I went back to my friends build thread and he said they were supertech. Not really a fan of theirs tbh.
AZ I'll be waiting for your pm.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I'm not simply referring to brand only. "Brand" is only one part of the criteria. Specifications of that brand to meet with the T1 camshaft is what's even more important. That's all I was referring to.