BlueShadow

Hi guys,

I'm gonna be using Crome and datalogging through the ECU. I just needed to know if I have to wire in my analog output to my ECU pins/harness. The LM1 analog cable (audio cable) has a red wire for analog 1, white wire for analog 2, and a braided copper wire for ground. I was going to hook up the re9d and white wires to the wire leading to pin D14 which is the ECU narrowband input. Then I was going to take the braided copper ground wire and connect it to the wire leading to pin A26 which is the ECU ground.

Does that sound good to you guys? also can I connect BOTH the red and white wires to D14 or would that cause problems in the wiring? if so I guess I could wire up a switch in there to switch between analog output 1 and 2.

EDIT: I got this idea from Snail Tuning's thread on wiring in the Zeitronix.

https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=1

let me know what you guys think
TIA

EE_Chris

If Analog 1 and Analog 2 are outputs from the LM-1, then absolutely do NOT connect them together.

You can certainly use a SPDT switch to select which Analog output is seen by the ECU though.

BlueShadow

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EE_Chris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If Analog 1 and Analog 2 are outputs from the LM-1, then absolutely do NOT connect them together.

You can certainly use a SPDT switch to select which Analog output is seen by the ECU though.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yah, I thought that might cause some sort of feedback or loop if I hooked them both up without a switch.

EDIT: or maybe I could hook up one to my ECU, and if I wanna switch between narrowband and wideband output I could use the LMConfig software to just set the voltage range for that one output. If I wanna simulate narrowband, then just set the voltages for NB...i I wanna read my actual AFR's, then I set it to the WB voltage setup. Then I'm going to get the LM1 gauge and mount it somewhere and hook up the other analog to that cause I think the LM1 gauge needs an analog output to work.

EE_Chris

I'm not 'up' on the LM-1 but aren't the analog outputs configurable so you can avoid having to do just that?

If you configured Analog 1 as wideband output and Analog 2 as narrowband output, then use a switch instead of constantly reprogramming the LM-1 (I'm assuming you can actually do that though).

BlueShadow

Yah, I figured it would work either way, but I just realized that if I do it my way then I'll need the laptop to program it to NB from WB. So I guess that idea is out the window. I was going to do it my way so that way I didn't have to wait until Radioshack opens to pick up a switch, hehehe. I guess I'll just have to wait until Radioshack opens.

I also wanted to give my future AFR gauge an analog output of it's own, but I think I'll just splice a wire off of the WB analog output.

EE_Chris

Yeah, that's a lot of work for just being impatient.

I'd rock the switch.

BlueShadow

will do,

One thing I almost forgot. I would haveto unplug the stock O2 sensor so it doesn't interfere with the analog output coming from the LM1 correct? if I leave the stock O2 plugged in then it would be kinda like hooking up both analog outputs to pin D14 which might break the LM1 controller.

I guess that means if the WBO2 is hooked up to D14, then in Crome I need to make sure I have the O2 sensor enabled. I used to run the O2 sensor disabled cause my old sensor was bad and giving me a CEL.

nfn15037

Thats correct, you need to unplug the OEM o2 sensor. If you are going to tune it don't even bother with the 02 sensor, you should be able to tune the vacume columns well enough to not need an 02 sensor.

BlueShadow

Hey guys,

I managed to finish welding my DP yesterday, but it came out crappy as hell. It sounds like it has a lot of air leaks. And even though I think I have my LM1 hooked up correctly, my LM1 controller was still acting kind of weird. After I made up my basemap and started the car up my LM1 was reading 1.7x-2.xx Lambda and 20-25 in the AFR portion. When I reved it up to 3K-4K RPM's the lambda would go down and the AFR would go down to 12-15, and when I let off the gas the RPM's would drop and the AFR's would go 40-80.

I followed the calibration instructions to the letter, but still the LM1 is not acting right. I think tomorrow I'll just recalibrate it again. I tried to get CromePRO 1.1.6B to datalog through my Nokia datalogging cable, but Crome wouldn't detect it no matter what COM port I put it on. The good news is I did manage to get Ostrich to work, however it just wouldn't datalog at the same time through my two USB connections.

I was just wondering, would a bad enough leak in the DP cause the LM1 AFR to act up the way it did? When gas was applied the AFR would go down to 10-12, but at idle it would stay at 20-25. After letting off the gas the AFr's would shoot up to 50-80. Even though I finished welding my DP I didn't have time to drill and weld an O2 bung in place. So I ended up using the O2 sensor bung that is on the cat. Between the cat and DP there could be an air leak that may be affecting my AFR's.

SOHC_MShue

Yea I'm sure those high afr's are because of the exhaust leak. I have tuned a few cars with exhaust leaks and strangely they would idle just fine even though it read that lean so i'm guessing it was just the exhaust leak. Also when you let off the gas the afr's are suppost to read full lean because the injectors are cutting out.

Turbogixxer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueShadow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I tried to get CromePRO 1.1.6B to datalog through my Nokia datalogging cable, but Crome wouldn't detect it no matter what COM port I put it on. The good news is I did manage to get Ostrich to work, however it just wouldn't datalog at the same time through my two USB connections.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You desolder J12 on the ECU? IF you did not, that is they reason you are not connecting. I use the nokia cable with Crome Pro, I have the Baud: 38400, Data bits: 8, Parity: None, Stop Bits: 1. Make sure you have the com port on the OS side the same.

Like SOHC_MShue said, your exhaust leaks will cause the weird AF.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueShadow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> and when I let off the gas the RPM's would drop and the AFR's would go 40-80.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The ECU is designed to cut the injectors off when the TPS is less then .5 volts and the rpms are more then 1500~ RPM. That is probably what you are seeing.

BlueShadow

Shue and gixxer,

That's what I figured...I'm gonna try recalibrating my LM1 just to be sure. If that doesn't work, then hopefully I have enough welding gas to redo the DP. The cat and DP flanges dont line up straight and so there is a slight gap at the bottom. Between that and the possible holes in the DP there is a god chance that I do have a leak.

About my datalogging problem I read up on a few threads on pgmfi and I'm gonna try a few things. I uninstalled a few programs on my laptop that I dont need (Yahoo IM, SBC installer, etc) and also I'm going to try a few other things in Crome. My J12 is cut, and the Nokia cable isn't altered from when it worked with UD.

BlueShadow

Hey again guys,

I was just wondering...even if I have a good seal from the DP to cat flange is it still possible that a lot of air could be getting sucked in where the DP and cat meet? Is it pretty out of the ordinary to mount the WBO2 sensor in the cat? I didn't have time to weld up the bung into my DP so I just stuck the WB sensor in the cat instead.

Tomorrow I'm going to try to fix the leak in my exhaust manifold, so hopefully my WB readings will start showing normal once I do that. If not I have to recheck my DP welds and maybe even weld the O2 bung in the DP.