Tharshan

iTrader: (1)

Hi guys! First of all, my apologies for my bad english. I'm from Norway

I have the hondata CPR kit have some issue with the ignition on boost.

When I bought this kit as package I did get some coils, but these one misfired as hell. at 3-4 psi, it just spitted everything out. I was in a hurry and I borrowed from friend here, and they worked fine. I run my engine as stock B18c6 with a thicker headgasket(10.6:1), arp head studs and supertech valvespring, paired with gtx2867r. This setup worked very fin up to 25 psi. It started to breakup a little bit, but not much. I ran NGK iridium plugs(8's)

Since I borrowed the coils(for 2 years :p ) i thought it was about time to get ordered new coils. I found some yellow high power coils from xenoron. I mounted them, and the ignition started to break up at 13psi. So I went back to my friends coil packs, which worked fine. After some time I ordered new densos from ebay with original part number, mounted it, and as soon I hit boost the engine blew right away.

I changed the engine to stock b18c6(11.1:1) and the first thing i noticed is that the ignitions did break up bad ad 14 psi. So again I went back to my friends coil packs, which worked fine, but started to break up when I run a lot of water meth throught it. I talked to a reputable tuner in Norway, and he told me that the iridium plugs from NGK doesnt like high comp and water/meth. Is that true?

So now I'm building a strong engine(Benson sleeved, CP pistions, pauterX rods etc.), and I have got a new gtx3076R gen 2, and I want the ignition system to perform under boost. Just waiting for my head to get finished before everything is ready.

So guys, what sparkplugs and coil packs do you run to handle high boost and power with hondata CPR?

Spec of the new engine:
Benson sleeved b18c
CP piston 84mm 9.7:1 upgraded wrist pins
Pauter X Rods with arp
LS crank
ACL bearings

Here is the spec of my car:

Engine and drivetrain:
Stock B18C6
Gulf 5-50w
Valvecover with 2 -10an
Gates timing belt
Hondata intake gasket
Thermal 3" exhaust
Hondata CPR
ACT 6-puck sprung disc
ACT xtreme pressure plate
Exedy 9lbs flywheel
Hasport 62A engine mount on the sides
OEM torque mounts with ES inserts
OEM rear engine mount
Ingals engine damper
AEM water methanole kit

Turbo:
Full-race ramhorn AC compitabel manifold
Garrett GTX2867r .82 a/r(New turbo will be GTX3076r gen2 .82 a/r)
Full-race 3" DP
Intercooler from Full-race painted black
Tial 44mm wastegate
Tial blow of valve
IC piping from full-race + custom pipe, 2.5"

cooling:

Mishimoto x-ine full-size radiator -16an fittings and hose
Setrab 60 row oilcooler with -10an hose and fittings
Mishimoto sandwich w/thermostat
Spoon thermostat
Spoon fan switch
1.3 bar radiatorcap

Fuel:
ID1000cc injectors
Walbro 400lph fuel pump
AEM fuel rail black
AEM fuel pressure regulator
B&M fuel gauge
Downstar fuel tuck kit -6an

Brakes:
Ceika L 6 pot 330x32mm full float disc with carbotech XP20
Ceika S 4 pot 330mmx28mm with ceika sport pads
Gulf RF1000 brakefluid

Suspension:
Tein monosport coilovers
Swift 16/9kg springs
Tein EDFC active pro
Skunk2 dualbend shortshifter
Alu shiftbushing
Whiteline 27mm stabilizer bar front
Function7 lca rear
ASR subframe brace
ASR 24mm stabilizer bar rear
AMR camber kit fornt
Spoon rigid collar kit
OEM tie rod
Hardrace LCA front
Hardrace Camberkit rear
Hardrace Toe kit rear
OEM RTA bushing
Mfactory extended balljoint

Electronics:
Hondata S300 v2 in P28
Hondata boost controller
Aem digital boost gauge
Aem digital AFR gauge
Aem digital Oil pressure gauge
Aem digital oil temperature gauge
Aem digital water temperature gauge
Aem EGT gauge
Rywire groundwires

Exterior:
Type R replica lip kit front and rear
Type R replica spoiler
Clear sidemarks
99-00 taillights
Blackhouse headlights
OZ alleggerita white 17" on Yokohama AD08R 215/40
Japan Racing JR5 17x8.5 et35 på Toyo R888R 235/40
Rota Grid 17x8" et35 4x100 R888R 215/45

Interior:
Black DC2 seats
EK9 Type R momo steering wheels
OEM VTi interior

Aradin

You never mentioned anything about spark plug gap. Ditch the iridium plugs for a set of copper ones and tighten down the gap until it stops breaking up. You can gap the iridiums but it's very easy to compromise and break the tip which can cause catastrophic engine issues if that little piece of metal gets tossed around inside a cylinder. Start at .025" and tighten it up from there if needed. If you get down to .015" or so and it's still breaking up, you have issues elsewhere.

Be careful while running a high volume of water/meth with the ignition breaking up. The engine will not like being loaded up like that and not being able to get rid of it. I have seen engines effectively hydrolock and spit rods out under the same circumstances.

Tharshan

iTrader: (1)

I'm running .55mm, which is around 0.022". I will try to lower the gap tomorrow.

As for the water/meth, I have already lowered it Thanks for input!

Tharshan

iTrader: (1)