Hairnandez

I like the retrofit by the way. I took the time to black out my CL headlights but didn't pull the trigger on a retro. its sad after driving my S2000 to drive the CL for many reasons but often its the lighting.

AFAccord

Got the Accord out of the garage today on account of the nice weather. (Partly cloudy, 72*) Started taping stuff off in the bay and scrubbing with scotch brite, steel wool and some Awesome cleaner.

BEFORE PICS:

























After:





















I used about half of a 20oz bottle of LA's Totally Awesome degreaser.



This stuff is great, because the 20oz spray bottle is only $1, and the 32oz bottle is just $3! It seems to work just as good as Purple Power and its competitors. I don't recommend using this on paint, but did just because it was so greasy and here in the engine bay, I can always retouch with minimal effort. I started by soaking all the surfaces I wanted to clean and giving them a light scrub with a wheel brush. I was careful not to let it soak for too long. Once I had agitated all the tough areas, I hit the whole bay with a pressure washer. The first round took almost everything off, and made a world of difference, but there was still a bit of yellowing on some of the surfaces. I resprayed those areas and used some steel wool to scrub it away. Round 2 with the pressure washer was all that was needed.

I'm pretty happy with the results. I'll pick up some Duplicolor spray paint soon to touch up some of the areas in the front and sides of the bay where there is rust, or where the paint was taken off by the steel wool. First I need to scotch brite all the surfaces to give the paint something to adhere to.

GhostAccord

Stuff looks like it works really well. That bay looks squeaky clean.

AFAccord

Thanks! It was some tedious work with the steel wool, but really didn't take too long, and the results speak for themselves. Overall, very rewarding process.

On another note, I've got some brand-new-in-box ACL Race bearings for sale! Looking for offers!

spoolin turbo

Ya thats a very clean bay. Thats quite a list of goodies.

Hairnandez

nice work, i look forward to le updates.

twkdCD595

Looks great so far, will be watching for updates.

AFAccord

Thanks all. I hope to keep a decent bit of momentum to this project. There's so many little things around the car that I want to address when I can't work on the engine itself. I should stay relatively busy with frequent updates.

DCFIVER

I remember you. Didnt you have a JET ecu that people poo-poo'ed, but you ended up making decent power with?

AFAccord

That's me! I wish I still had that ECU so I could let my tuner check it out and see what was actually changed.

bisscrac

iTrader: (1)

you buy that cleaer at the dollar tree ?

AFAccord

Yep! Dollar General to be exact.

bisscrac

iTrader: (1)

lol thought i recognised it. you just spray it on let it sit for a while then spray it off with the hose ?

JamesB1985

This build is looking SAWEEET!! Good luck! Im in the process of rebuilding a F22 and loving it!

2000AccordFlex

Good luck on the build, should be an awesome final product! Glad someone is revamping the 6ga!

AFAccord

I went ahead and ordered a KS balance shaft delete kit with the optional spacer to delete the front pulley. My tuner believes balance shafts are fine on a stock motor, but just another part to break on a modified engine. My primary concerns were harmonic issues and cabin vibrations, which weren't worth the extra few hp, but several people have reassured me that there's no detrimental effects to the engine by not having them. I'm ordering the new OEM oil pump as well, and will have to give everything to the machine shop to have the plugs pressed in.

Since my stock-like cabin comfort is already compromised, I'm looking into filling my mounts with poly. The chassis has almost 1/4 million miles on it, and I don't want things rattling loose, so I still want to be a little conservative here. At the moment, I'm considering a poly filler with ~60A rating. It should be better than the stock mounts/poly inserts I currently have to control the extra energy, without being too harsh in the cabin.

AFAccord

Semi-small update for today...

Pushed the car out of the garage today for the first time in weeks. Spent all day organizing my parts and clearing out the utility closet to make room for the engine hoist since I don't expect to need it for a while. Between cleaning, I took breaks to further disassemble the head I'm going to use of all springs, retainers, bolts, studs, and valve stem seals. Did the same for the F23 IM. Both my old head, and new head, as well as the IM will be heading to the shop soon to be cleaned, resurfaced, have my Bisimoto springs and retainers swapped to the new head, along with new valve seals, and maybe a little touch-up on the valve seats.

The block is pretty much finished at this point, thought it's still at the shop getting the Kaisenspeed BS delete kit pressed in and tapped. The shop has already checked the crank and block, bored to 86.5, honed to the correct piston-to-wall clearance, filed, gapped and installed the rings onto the pistons, mounted pistons to the rods, micro-polished and balanced the crank, trued and surfaced the block and oil pan. The machinist said the crank was in the best condition he'd ever seen. Told me I couldn't expect to buy a new one in such good condition, so that gives me confidence in this setup. Everything has been blueprinted and I just need to buy the right bearings to get the clearances I want, then assemble it here in the garage.


The mess I pulled out of the closet


New front bumper and OEM style lip to go on.


Head disassembled.


Does anyone know what this hole is for?


Holes in yellow mentioned earlier, top hole in red had a vacuum fitting on it leading to the hole below it.


The IM gasket seems to create a seal around the indented area on the head circled in yellow.


From looking at it, my best guess is that it's applying vacuum to the injector ports to keep the O-rings in place and sealed. Does this sound correct? Is it necessary, or can it be removed without causing issues?

GhostAccord

Those holes are part of the fuel injection air (FIA) control system. It adds extra air to aid in fuel atomization under certain engine conditions. It was only used on the F22B1 for one model year (96-97) and then again on one of the F23A engines. Can't remember witch one, I think it was only the 98 EX. Don't think it really panned out so they never really went full bore with the idea. Whatever one it was. You have the intake from it but not the head.

If your head does not have the FIA air ports. I would suggest that you plug them on the intake with some JB weld or some good solid RTV sealant. Even if your head did have them I would plug them anyway..lol

AFAccord

Ghost, the funny thing is that I bought this long block a couple years ago from a salvage yard, so everything from the TB to the stock exhaust manifold came together! The complete system is there from what I can see, I just don't recall whether there was a vacuum line connected to it or not. The indention in the head casting combined with the larger IM gasket creates a sealed space where all for injector holes and the one vent hole share a 'plenum' with each other. As you can see, I've already drilled out the nipple and tapped it for a plug, but I don't know whether I truly need to fill in the smaller injector holes to prevent issues. I would really like to avoid having to do any modifications to those surfaces where the O-rings seat if possible.

EDIT: Judging by this old photo I found from my original F23 IM, blocking it off never hurt anything. The method I used in this picture made me lol at myself...

GhostAccord

Yeah I missed the air pocked in the head picture. I just saw the image of hte FIA port in the injector and new what they were...lol

As long as the flange nipple is blocked off and the gasket is sealed properly there should be no issues, just as you said. I'm used to people doing the F23 IM on the F22B2. Where the B2 head doesn't have the pocket/holes nor does the B2 gasket seal them up. So if you don't plug the holes it will cause a vacuum leak



The F23 doesn't look like you will have the same issue though.

AFAccord

Got some more parts ordered tonight from the stealership.

-OEM Oil Pump Assembly
-OEM Main Bolts
-OEM Crank Dampener Pulley
-OEM Valve seals all around
-OEM Oil Seal for the cover on the trans side
-OEM Crank Pulley Bolt

Hopefully it'll all be in this week so I can finally get the block back from the machine shop. Next up should be main bearings and any more seals that I might have missed.

AFAccord

BIG UPDATE!! (Used Car Dealership Commercial Voice)

Received my new parts from Honda, picked up the block, and dropped off the heads to the shop. On to the photos!

Pretty much every seal, gasket and bolt from the throttle body to the oil pan. I LOVE seeing those little red and white tags...


Crank has been cleaned, checked for trueness, and balanced.



New F23 T-stat housing. It's surprising how many stock F23 parts I had to order to go back to a stock head and IM.


New F23 main bolts. These are reusable items, but I wanted to have fresh ones for this assembly since I don't know the mileage on the originals. Steered away from the ARP studs to avoid having to align-hone.




Pistons have been mounted to the rods, rings have been filed to achieve proper ring gap, and everything was weighed to ensure it balanced out. Everything came out as perfectly as can be expected.



New OEM oil pump with Kaisenspeed BS delete plugs and plate installed.



New OEM Crank Pulley. That rubber dampener looks soo fresh!



New Crank Pulley Bolt (was surprised to read that Honda recommends replacing this with a rebuild)



Freshly cleaned oil pan, scraped clean and checked for straightness on the sealing surface.



Clean crankshaft. The shop said it was in better condition than any of their OE cranks. All the journals measured perfectly round and showed no measurable wear at all.



Block was cleaned, every mating surface was machined and decked, bored to 86.5mm and honed for proper P2W clearance. I want to paint the block, but I'm still undecided whether to do a flat black, or plain aluminum.














Oil galley tapped and plugged with KS kit.





Looking down the mains.




For bearing selection, I have the following information...








The stamps on my block are C-C-C-C-B, while the crank reads 3-4-4-4-4.

If I'm interpreting this correctly, then the bearings for stock clearances should be:
.1......2......3......4......5
C3....C4....C4.....C4....B4
Y/G....G.....G......G....Y/G

I would go ahead and order 4 sets of green and one set of yellow since I can mix-match the green and yellow on number 1 and 5. Then I can plasti-guage this and see what my oil clearances are and order new bearings as needed. However, I'm somewhat paranoid about getting this part right, so I'm strongly considering spending about $100 on a set of snap gauges and a decent micrometer just to double-check myself.

What I'd like to see is around 0.0015 for journals 1,2, and 4, 0.0017 for journal 3, and 0.0010 for journal 5.

This may seem a little ****-retentive or optimistic to be so precise with layman's tools though. I'm shooting for the higher-end of OE specs, without going over the service limit. From what I've been told so far, this is the preferred route in order to maintain the longevity of the engine while supporting my power goals. I would love to hear what others have used in your builds!

Thats's about all I have for now. The new head should be ready for pick-up in a couple weeks with the Bisimoto springs and retainers installed, along with new OEM valve seals, fresh cut deck and a 3-angle valve job. Thanks for following!

Brice.Hayden

iTrader: (15)

wow looks awesome, i wouldnt paint the block at all, looks good as it. nice work

GhostAccord

Looking good!

AFAccord

Thanks fellas. All the little pieces are finally starting to take shape.