EJ1 wilcox

I am going to start buying parts soon because I finally have some cash to play with.

I am going to turbo my stock d16z6 (90k miles).

My goal is approx. 170~190hp, I'm guessing it's going to take about 7~9psi to get there.

Here is my shopping list...



This will be my first turbo experience so please give me any feedback on the parts I need, tips etc. I am trying to learn as much as possible before I start buying anything.

Also, I am concerned about whether the parts I am thinking about buying will work well together or not. If any parts I have listed won't work together please let me know!

Thank you!

edit:: I am now thinking of buying an hf mani off ebay, an adapter plate, and a internally wastegated t25 (turbine housing A/R ratio .49, compressor housing A/R .48) instead of the T3/T4.

Will the t25 better suit my needs? I have so much to learn!!!

Thanks for the suggestions by the way!


Modified by koreanwilcox at 10:54 AM 4/14/2004

vietjdmboi

you forgot gauges..boost, a/f ratio and or egt.

g2turbo

I would also add a good clutch to that list!

philadd

wastegate?

EJ1 wilcox

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philadd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wastegate?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I want to find a turbo with an internal wastegate so I don't have to buy that too...

vietjdmboi

try to find one from a greddy kit.. td04-15g or something like that.

AllMotorBrew

boost controller if you want to up the boost besides 4 -6 psi depending on what turbo you find with a internal wastegate on what spring it has in it

pip9

I bought my turbo from down2turbo and the internal wg i got with my turbo from him was set at 10psi. I have the wastegate for sale since i went with an external one. btw, i just finished up my setup here the link: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=831925 Once i remember what i spent on everything and from who i'll post up the prices

BLK JDM

You'll need:

Missing Link or the fish tank check valves
In tank Fuel Pump
Guages
Colder Plugs
BTM or just retard the timing
Ignition box-preferably w/ BTM
Boost controller(not really needed)

If I remember anything else I'll add

pip9

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jigga008_99 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You'll need:

Missing Link or the fish tank check valves
</TD></TR></TABLE>

looks like he's going with the afc hack with the items he listed so he won't need these.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vietjdmboi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you forgot gauges..boost, a/f ratio and or egt.</TD></TR></TABLE>
dont buy a a/f ratio gauge. They are junk. If u run the hack u can use the pres. to see ur boost in bar, so u wont need a boost gauge. But an egt gauge would be a nice thing to have

5STAR3

you need a resistor box.

i have one for 17.50 shipped

EJ1 wilcox

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by calmweed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dont get a t3/t4 for your goals. Get an internally gated .42/.48 T3 or a .60/.48 T3.

Spending $175 on a BOV is stupid. get a dsm bov off a DSM or volvo for $25-50. if you are planning on running open DP $50 will do, but you really should look into an exhaust b/c open dp for a daily driver sucks. You should also look into a clutch. oh, get a boost gauge from pepboys. $16 and it works grand

Couplers and clamps cost a good $40 if you do silicone or nitrile.......

otherwise you still spent more than i did and i got a clutch, exhaust, a new radiator, and slim fAN </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for the info! I think I am just going to keep my eyes open and try to pick up a used internally-wastegated turbo.

About the downpipe... right now I have a DC 4-1 header with a "high flow cat" (resonated test pipe) and a Tanabe Racing Medalion cat back. I will probably just get a flange welded on the dp so it will bolt up to the test pipe.

So I don't need a missing link if I use the AFC hack do I? Also, do I need a resistor box for the injectors?

BTW I am going to get some gauges too but I just didn't list them.

Thanks for the help! I am learning a lot!!

EJ1 wilcox

I am thinking about buying an internally wastegated T25 (turbine housing A/R ratio .49, compressor housing A/R .48).

Would this work well for my application?

Thanks again for all your help!

DaX

iTrader: (1)

Yes that will work.

smurfey002

dump tube

edit:::::nm......let this be a lesson to read the whole post.

kpt4321

Yeah, I was just going to suggest a T-25 or a 13g/14b. It'll have the internal gate you want, and will work fine for your current setup.

You do need a resistor box. You also want an in-tank fuel pump, I wouldn't try running injectors at twice the stock size without one.

Don't bother with an A/F ratio gauge.

Nextelbuddy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pip9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

dont buy a a/f ratio gauge. They are junk. </TD></TR></TABLE>

aww but they are soo pretty

for real thoguh if you havent gotten one dont they are useless. spend the money on a EGT gauge or evem save for a wideband O2 setup with gauge

warwagon

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by calmweed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Couplers and clamps cost a good $40 if you do silicone or nitrile.......

</TD></TR></TABLE>

well just my damn tbolt clamps were $40 and all the f'n silicone couplers are very expensive that i want!!! so for now lowes plumbing couplers will do with my t bolt clamps