so simple

ok, just throwing my setup out there so far because im almost ready to be boosted. bear with me people, i know search search search but this is my particular set up and just seeing opinions so far.

garrett t3 SPECS ARE AN A/R OF .42 ON THE COMPRESSOR SIDE AND .48 ON THE TURBINE SIDE (whatever that means)
internal wastegate at about 7psi

RevHard replica cast iron manifold w/ 35/38mm wastegate flange

JohnnyRaceCar 6" Intercooler

Cartech Adjustable FMU

TurboXS Type S Bov

RevHard Downpipe (on its way)

Boost Gauge

So far, i think all im missing is a Walbro255lph HP fuel pump, A/F Gauge, maybe a Tial WG, and piping / oil lines.

just double checking to make sure i didnt forget anything. I was considering AFC hack, but my friend whos helping me with the install said FMU has worked fine for all his friends. What I really want is just to run the FMU for now hoping it will be safe, running rich i guess, and then hoping i come across somebody in the Bay Area who can help me do Uberdata. When i switch out the FMU for uberdata, all i need is maybe some DSM 450s and somebody to chip my ecu correct? This is going on my 97 GSR motor but OBD1 GSR ecu. A lot of people use P28s for some reason but Uberdata would work fine on my OBD1 GSR ecu correct?

sorry if i sound really newb, im just listing my setup and just being safe / doublechecking.

Any Bay Area locals out there want to help me out with Uberdata or anything with my setup? thanks!

ThePro

Talk to ShowTymers619. I believe he is in the Bay Area (I think.. At least I KNOW he's in Cali). He does UberData.

OBD1 GS-R ECUs work fine and you retain the ability to use your secondary intake runners.

I'd ditch the FMU and go with a UberData/440cc injector + fuel pump setup.

I'm not a fan of cutting fuel lines to put a FMU in. Awhile back there was a guy with an ITR, and someone will remember this. He had a turbo on his setup and one of the fuel lines blew. Caught the car on fire and it looked like hell.

But he rebuilt the ITR replacing everything in it and repainted it white with a black top and still drives it.

Does someone remember this or still have the pictures?

so simple

yeah i remember that guy, i think his name was rob helm or something, and his website was like http://www.maditr.com . i was considering painting my car with his theme, looked very nice. first i saw with the black top.

but anyways, why 440cc and not 450s? and will the 255lph HP work with uberdata? i know that HP is good for fmu, but is the regular one better for uberdata? thanks!

Alchemist

Im in the Bay Area now, I can chip your ECU and set up datalogging if you need. If you have any questions about uberdata, then feel free to hit me up.

ThePro

Yeah, that's the guy. He must either have mad amounts of money, or mad amounts of time to get all that done.

Why 440cc and not 450cc? All up to you. I use RC Engineering Injectors and they come in 440. If you like another brand better that comes in 450cc then by all means use that one. Just a preference thing.

Why do I like RC Engineering? I dunno, it's what came with my kit.

As for the 255lph or the 255lph HP I can't help you except to provide you with this.

An exerpt from http://www.nolimitmotorsport.com/walbro/

"These particular pumps flow significantly more fuel at higher pressure. For example, at 80 PSI the standard 255 lph pump will flow around 132 liters (35 gallons) per hour. At that same 80 PSI the equivalent HP (high pressure) fuel pump will flow over 210 liters (50 gallons) per hour."

So I guess it all depends on how much boost you are going to run.

Hrm... that's weird. "the standard 255 lph pump will flow around 132 liters (35 gallons) per hour" I figured a 255 Liters Per Hour would flow 255 liters per hour.. Maybe it means 255 liters per hour at atmospheric pressure.

edit: Found another good website. http://www.lightningmotorsport...h.htm

"Another question we are asked is "what pump do I need and what is that HP about?" That questions is simple but technical at the same time.....to be continued

Regarding the HP question, that is fairly simple. If we take the two 255lph pumps and look at the pressure curves we see that they are very similar until about 60psi. After that point, the standard 255 pump starts to die off whereas the HP keeps going.



To use an example to illustrate pump choice, we will look at a turbocharged Acura application. On these vehicles, the OEM fuel pressure regulator is referred to as a 1:1 regulator. What this means is that for every pound of manifold pressure (boost) there will be a corresponding 1 pound increase in fuel pressure. If the base fuel pressure is set at 40lbs and we introduce 10lbs. of boost, the total fuel system pressure at boost will be 50lbs. That sounds good and will work fine with a standard 255 pump but there is one small problem.

The problem is that we still need more fuel than the 1:1 regulator can effectively deliver. One way would be to add a larger set of fuel injectors and use an aftermarket engine management system to control them. The other, more commonly used method of fuel enrichment is the rising rate fuel pressure regulator or FMU. This device functions in a 4:1 (or more) ratio and will increase the fuel pressure 4 pounds for every 1 pound of boost. If we once again set our base fuel pressure at 40 lbs. and add 10 lbs. of boost we will now see 40 additional pounds of pressure for a total of 80lbs. of fuel rail pressure. This goes beyond the capabilities of the standard 255 pump and mandates the use of the 255HP pump. From this we can see that given two different engines, both with a hypothetical 400hp, the one with the larger pressure requirements will need the HP pump, the one with the smaller requirements will not."

Hrm... so according to this if you use a FMU or rising rate fuel pressure regulator you need to get the 255lphHP while with the Uberdata/440cc injector setup you are fine with the 255lph.

Quad-Damag

Have Philip Project DC2

his shop spoolinperformance http://spoolinperformance.com/
he can make u a good log manifold
intercooler piping and weld ur bov
he also does very nice downpipes
don't waste money on name brand downpipes, when custom, is cheaper and can even net more power and be a direct fit.
for a very fair price

he does great work hit him up
BTW ditch the fmu for urberdata or chrome.

so simple

i think spooling charges like almost $500 for a downpipe and piping, i got my dp for $80 and the piping i can make myself for like under $100 i believe. piping etc im not too worried about, im going to reuse my cold air intake and get some u bends etc, i dont think it would be that hard to make piping. i was just concerned about fmu / uberdata.

so if i have the 255lph hp and fmu for temporary, the 255lph hp should still work with ubderdata and dsm 450s right

ThePro

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by simpleaznx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So if I use the 255lphHP and fmu temporarily, the 255lphHP should still work with uberdata and a set of dsm 450cc injectors, right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Abosolutely. For what you are talking about using, the 255lphHP is your best choice. And it will work fine with UberData and the 450cc injectors.

Although I'd still suggest going with UberData first. Sell the FMU and get a OBD1 P72 (GS-R) ECU (about $170), get it socket chipped for $110 with datalogging or $65 without and then you don't have to deal with having to replace a cut fuel line when you get rid of the FMU. It might take a little longer to save up, but it'll be worth it and then you can tune your system at the same time.

And I didn't notice this earlier. From what I've read the A/F gauges are worthless unless you buy a wideband O2 sensor (~$300).

AzntaggeR

you are totally right. a/f gauges are useless if used with a narrowband o2 sensor.

you'll benefit more from a tuned rechipped P28 if you get rid of the gsr intake manifold and go with a single runner intake manifold.

psileepR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Alchemist &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im in the Bay Area now, I can chip your ECU and set up datalogging if you need. If you have any questions about uberdata, then feel free to hit me up.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I dont know about this guy. His car seems kinda slow. His uberdata tuning may be a lil iffy.

J/K I can vouch for Mike! Good guy. Hit him up.

so simple

without any gauges how can i tell if im running lean/rich? im on stock internals so i really dont want to blow the motor. but yeah the problem with uberdata first is i dont have an extra ecu or anything while its getting chipped. is a cut fuel line from the fmu that bad?

AzntaggeR

theres no way to tell accurately how rich or lean your motor is running without a wideband o2 sensor. one way to tell if ur motor is running rich is by the black smoke that comes out of the exhaust.

AspectIndustries

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AzntaggeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">theres no way to tell accurately how rich or lean your motor is running without a wideband o2 sensor. one way to tell if ur motor is running rich is by the black smoke that comes out of the exhaust.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Or when you get like 13mpg on gas. ( yes it has happen )

Im running Uberdata now, and let me tell you. Its a world difference from an FMU to UBER. (few local guys in town, runs more boost then I am, close to similiar specs, yet im on 6lb and they 10lbs..) Let me tell you... Buh bye to them.