Don E

ok guys im on the process of putting my LSV motor together
b18 block 86mm
RS sleeves
Arias pistons 14:1
Eagle rods
GSR head- no port n polish
skunk2 springs n retainers
skunk2 pro2 cams
skunk2 pro manifold
walbro 255 fuel pump
race headers
car will tuned on race gas
this set up in a EG hatch

ok my question is : how much nitrous can my motor handle OR should i just leave it ALL MOTOR? need advise thanks guys .

Don E

any advise?

jsilva

Your a brave man with 14:1 and wanting to spray it, thats about the only decent imput i have on it.

newtype_33

personally i won`t do it,i would spend extra money to port/polished the gsr head and you`ll have a 11`sec car all day.

BMo Tuning

500 shot all day, hit up TNT.

Don E

or should i just leave it all motor?

xtegb16x

you should be good with a 100 shot, i had a set up that had 13:5 and sprayed 100 shot direct port, id recommend getting it tuned on Q16, hope your going to a good tuner.

Don E

yea imma tune on Q16, yea i was thinking about 100 shot. how did ur car run? how much power did u make?

xtegb16x

car ran like a champ man, fast as hell it put over 300whp on spray

wolve

i would be severely dissapoinnted if a 13.5:1 build would put out less then 330-340 on a 100 shot

GotRHD

dam with comp that high i would stay n/a .. my 02 cents

Bugermass

I did a 250Shot on a 14.5:1 86mm B16 with Toda-Cs ... I was on Q16. Was retarded feeling on the dyno.. Wrecked the car before it made it to the track though. Just some tips..

Run a non-projected spark plug. I'd run like a #9 or #10 heat range if you can find one. Stick with coppers, IR tips tend to turn into glow plugs with alot of spray. You may have to gap the plugs WAY down unless you have a bad *** ignition. I was running my gaps at .016 . Keep the fueling rich.. With the nitrous, it didn't seem to gain much by running leaner.. But being able to put the timing in it picked up the power quite a bit..

Bugermass

and I would HIGHLY reccomend running the fuel selenoid of its own seperate pump and regualtor. If you don't you will most likely get a lean spike right when you spray if your going 100shot or bigger. Hope this helps.

If done right, you will make a crap load of TQ and your car should be nutz fast.

d112crzy

The only non projected NGK plug I know of are the R5671A-9's, but they're also non resistor type.

OP, if you have the money spend it on building a direct port kit. It'll make tuning that much safer. Perhaps a progressive controller too if you'd like some traction and less of an instant kick(makes powerband feel almost like a big turbo).
Definitely use an ems that can control the nitrous solenoid and add fuel in through the injectors(means you'll need bigger injectors if they're not already big enough).

I <3 high compression with nitrous.

Don E

thanks for the advise guys. with no port and polish and with skunk2 pro2 cams on nitrous would that be ok? or do i need port n polish?

bauergold

Why are you guys freaking out about the compression? Nitrous doesn't have a problem with compression as long as you use the right gas.

I would run a separate cell for the nitrous or run it dry through hondata or neptune.
Also, I wouldn't **** with single foggers at the level that your motor should handle.

If it was my motor, I wouldn't spray anything lower than 150 on it. That is a stout motor build and I wouldn't be afraid of spraying it.

I would probably end up around 200hp of nitrous through two stages on that setup.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

i agree with bauergold

only input i have is DO NOT use shelf pistons for this application. have a custom 14:1 piston made and put the ringland down further and thicker ringlands for the nos. that will save the pistons.

Bugermass

Yup thats the one.. Being non resistor generally will be ok if your still on stock ECU and dizzy, but if you do run into interfearance issues theres a couple of resistor type as well.


R5671A-10.. non-resistor

R6601-9 R6601-10 Resistor Type
R6711-9 R6711-10 Non-Resistor

You can use iridiums as well, but I'm a bit weary using them on larger shots. I prefer a non-projected, or a non-ground strap type plug for big shots. Just means fewer possible things that can get really hot in the chamber and cause pre ignition..

I agree running a dry setup and add fuel with the ecu is the way to go. but if you must run a wet kit, I'd still recommend a seperate pump and regulator for the fuel selenoids.

Have fun