blwn95civic

[IMG][/IMG]




the reason i ask is b/c im getting a small about of oil on the compressor side of the turbo where the clocking bolts are. Ive tried to tighten them but there pretty tight and still oil seeps out. For a feed line im running a stealthmode -3an.

Tippyman

It looks like where the bung goes into the pan is a little flat.

redzcstandardhatch

it looks like the drain should be fine.. i wouldnt worry about that.

do you have a restrictor in the feed line ? generally thats the main reason for oil push-out past the thrust washers in the turbo..

SPOOLINmatt

mine is horizontal and its perfectly fine.

blwn95civic

yes it is, i noticed that after i installed the kit. by angling the bung on the pan up a little bit should it help out with the angle? the turbo is garrett t4 brand new and while i ran the car on jackstands with the front in the air, there was no leaks, but once i sat it on the ground the oil started to barely seap out of the compressor housing

blwn95civic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redzcstandardhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it looks like the drain should be fine.. i wouldnt worry about that.

do you have a restrictor in the feed line ? generally thats the main reason for oil push-out past the thrust washers in the turbo..

</TD></TR></TABLE>

no i dont currently have a restrictor, i thought that with a -3an line on a non ball bearing turbo a restrictor isnt required? should i buy a restrictor for the turbo. and if so what kind? thanks for all the help

redzcstandardhatch

i'd go to an ATP restrictor... atpturbo.com i think...

some people have no problems for a long time with a -3 line.. some (2 buddies of mine had issues) do have problems.. its really up to the clearances in the turbo. garrett journal bearing turbos arent all that crazy precise in their oiling.. but if you over oil them a bit, they start to puke it into the exhaust housing a bit. a little bit seems to be normal, but you cant let it go forever.

i'd go to a regular -4 restrictor/line, but there might be -3 line restrictors out there

blwn95civic

well i have been reading a little bit in other posts, my motor sees about 78lbs of oil pressure when cruising a 3000rpm. Is this too much to be going to the turbo? its tapped where the oil pressure sensor was on the back of the block. what size restrictor is recommended to barely restrict more than the -3 line itself. my biggest fear is starving the turbo of oil since its a journal bearing

redzcstandardhatch

http://www.atpturbo.com/Mercha...e=BCS


its basically a 60 thousandths hole..thats all the restrictor is...

at a given pressure, it wouldnt matter what line (-3 or -4 ) was feeding it... its only going to let the certain amount through..

drop one into the turbo, and connect it!

JaredKaragen

restrictors are for ball-bearing turbos for the most part, or for -4 AN or bigger line.

What length feed line do you have? and what is your hot idle and driving oil pressure?

If it's a new turbo; it is common for them to let a little oil come out; and to see a small puddl eon the inlet;

Hee's a question: What kind of breathing system does your motor have? a little block pressurization can cause a leak to be seen.

small leaks for the first bit on the hotside connecting to the CHRA are normal and normally go away shortly.
Don't go jumping on the restrictor bandwagon just yet; cause if those bearings overheat before it's broken in, you will have a filed turbo alot wuicker than you think.

Proper warmup on motors helps this greatly.

blwn95civic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JaredKaragen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">restrictors are for ball-bearing turbos for the most part, or for -4 AN or bigger line.

What length feed line do you have? and what is your hot idle and driving oil pressure?

If it's a new turbo; it is common for them to let a little oil come out; and to see a small puddl eon the inlet;

Hee's a question: What kind of breathing system does your motor have? a little block pressurization can cause a leak to be seen.

small leaks for the first bit on the hotside connecting to the CHRA are normal and normally go away shortly.
Don't go jumping on the restrictor bandwagon just yet; cause if those bearings overheat before it's broken in, you will have a filed turbo alot wuicker than you think.

Proper warmup on motors helps this greatly.</TD></TR></TABLE>

the feed line is 3ft in length, oil pressure when the motor is up to operating temp is around 45-50 at idle and WOT it is between 75-80.

as far as crankcase ventillation. the stock pcv system is removed and i have yet to install my new valve cover with two 1/2 inch nipples on the front to a moroso catch can. Could the leak be due to crankcase pressure.

Bailhatch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JaredKaragen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Hee's a question: What kind of breathing system does your motor have? a little block pressurization can cause a leak to be seen.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes, get rid of the PCV setup and make sure that at the very least the 2 stock vents (black box/pcv and valve cover) are open to the air or going to a catch can or something.

I would most definitely put in a restrictor. A .060" will not starve your turbo for oil as it is quite large. I have always had good luck with even smaller ones on turbo hondas and other motors that have relatively high oil pressure. Often it will fix a leaking problem immediately.

redzcstandardhatch

i wouldnt say that restrictors are a "bandwagon"...as everyone else uses them regularly.. (pretty much any other make of car..etc) the guy who rebuilds our turbos, joel from arizona turbo/truck supply says that restrictors from .030 and .060 are fine.

drop in the restrictor, and it should be fine.. then i'd also make sure you've got adequate venting... crankcase pressure does terrible things to turbos!

raiden571

how much of an angle is the center housing at? have any pics of the turbo mounted from the side?

blwn95civic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by raiden571 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how much of an angle is the center housing at? have any pics of the turbo mounted from the side?</TD></TR></TABLE>

the brass 45 elbow in the pic is mounted to the center section of the turbo...

blwn95civic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redzcstandardhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i wouldnt say that restrictors are a "bandwagon"...as everyone else uses them regularly.. (pretty much any other make of car..etc) the guy who rebuilds our turbos, joel from arizona turbo/truck supply says that restrictors from .030 and .060 are fine.

drop in the restrictor, and it should be fine.. then i'd also make sure you've got adequate venting... crankcase pressure does terrible things to turbos! </TD></TR></TABLE>

well a restrictor is going to be my last resort.... im going to setup the crankcase ventillation better before i get a restrictor.

With out the black box on the back of the block, should just tapping the valve cover be enough to relieve pressure? or should i tap the two allen head screws on the back of the block and ventilate that as well. thanks for all the replies

blwn95civic

well i went ahead and pulled the turbo off to check the oil drain. When i pulled the turbo off oil came out of the drain end that connected to the turbo (note: car was lifted ~ 1ft in the front on jackstands). I think i tapped the oil pan too low and oil is filling up the drain line from inside the oil pan

I also looked in the charge piping and noticed a slight spot where oil has ran through the turbo. It was just enough to make a sort of shiney place inside the housing but not on the charge pipe inself. Does this mean i F'd up the seals already or will this stop when i raise the spot the oil pan is tapped and make a better drain line

stealthmode62

My -3 feedlines are 4ft long, not 3ft. What's the purpose of that brass elbow on the drain? I'm not seeing the necessity of it.

Depending on the amount of oil we're talking about here, I think you are just experiencing something normal for oil being run through the turbo for the first time.

blwn95civic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stealthmode62 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My -3 feedlines are 4ft long, not 3ft. What's the purpose of that brass elbow on the drain? I'm not seeing the necessity of it.

Depending on the amount of oil we're talking about here, I think you are just experiencing something normal for oil being run through the turbo for the first time. </TD></TR></TABLE>

sorry, they are 4ft. i wasnt sure of the length. The elbow made it easier to install the drain line and to keep less of a bend in the line itself without it dipping. When i park the car there is about a nickel size puddle of oil

ctr83

i think the bung on the pan needs to be higher.

JaredKaragen

I would say replace that 45 and peice it connects to with something itself that is a 45 off the turbo should be better.

the block pressurization is what it sounds like to me; When the seals go in the turbo you visibly see smoke in the exhaust/charge pipings; though a little oil buildup in the piping is normal.

Sounds like your attacking it right


F.Y.I. Your feed line for the most part is fine; I had to route mine from the compressor, around the downpipe, and to the oil pan; to the extent that I had to add fiberglass heatshield to it for personal reasons. When I disconnect it, oil will come out; but I just keep it propped up with a tool or something.

redzcstandardhatch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ctr83 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think the bung on the pan needs to be higher.</TD></TR></TABLE>

this is a common belief among honda guys for some reason.. bungs dont need to be at the top of the pan, or above the oil level, or whatever.

oil wont go higher up in the line than the level of oil in the pan. thats just the way it is... i've mounted drain lines at the bottom of pans, etc, and never had an issue.

while a little bit of oil will always blow through the turbo, i'd say put the restrictor in as a means of keeping the turbo alive for a longer period of time...not just as a last resort. you probably dont have a problem, but you might make one.

the guy that rebuilds our turbos, does our porting/clipping, etc... he say that extended period of over-oiling will hurt the turbo eventually..

-3 isnt bad, i'm sure you'll be fine with it, but you'd be better with the restrictor... good luck!

97grnrs

ive actually tested the theory of higher and lower mounted bungs on the pan too and i had trouble with lower mounted ones.. it would make the car smoke.. even though its technically not supposed to since some stock turbo cars come that way but it did for me.

Tippyman

Some turbo kits (I believe the Greddy kit?) actually use a special drain bolt as the oil drain.

redzcstandardhatch

yeah, many turbo kits use a banjo bolt in the oil drain as their return fitting..