MY Greddy 18G Turbo needs help
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MY Greddy 18G Turbo needs help
Hey whats up with this? I get my car back from a shop because my turbo housing sort of fell.. Well I got everything rebolted and now it seems Ihave no boost... My turbo really struggles and it wont go higher then 1 psi...it normally is set to seven....what do I do to fix this?
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Re: (MachAF)
Yeah that sounds insane, WEll what happened is somehow since I just bought this car with this kit and the work I had done for upgrades left the bolts loose and partly missing where there turbo manifold connects to the exhaust manifold. SO the whole down pipe dropped while I was driving and it layed on my intercooler piping. Im going to check for leaks.... to do that all I look for is a loose hose? on the vacuum lines? thanks
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Re: (KeithGSR)
check IC piping. Check vacuum lines going to the wastegate.
could have blow the turbo... the oil return line returns oil to the oil pan by gravity, so if they turbo dropped below the oil pan, oil wouldn't flow back to the pan.
could have blow the turbo... the oil return line returns oil to the oil pan by gravity, so if they turbo dropped below the oil pan, oil wouldn't flow back to the pan.
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Re: (MachAF)
Oil pressure has never dropped? I dont think it dropped below my oil pan. I have a moroso 5 qt oil pan and it layed onto on the IC pipe and that is above the oil pan. I noticed condensation build up in one of my spark plugs? feels like just water.
How do I check these lines? turn my car on and check the connections?
How do I check these lines? turn my car on and check the connections?
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Re: (KeithGSR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KeithGSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dude F U, thats some bullshit, it was running fine... how the **** could that happen after taking it to a shop!</TD></TR></TABLE>
your housing fell. what that means to me. you drove and it fell off/came loose.
all kinds of nasty **** can get into a spooling turbo, like the bolts/nuts that were holding it up.
barring any hose leaks I still think you are fubar.
and BTW LOTS of **** can happen after taking it to a "shop"
your housing fell. what that means to me. you drove and it fell off/came loose.
all kinds of nasty **** can get into a spooling turbo, like the bolts/nuts that were holding it up.
barring any hose leaks I still think you are fubar.
and BTW LOTS of **** can happen after taking it to a "shop"
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Re: MY Greddy 18G Turbo needs help (KeithGSR)
My turbo gauge goes from negative to zero, when My car hits this mark its hard to accelerate. what can I do to test and figure out this problem...Im in a bad situation so resources are pretty much limited to the internet for me..Can we get this thread going, unlike my current turbo status.
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ah.. so you at least hit "0" check the wastgate and see if the actuator rod is bent or not moving freely. its prolly stuck open.
are u using a manual boost controller?
are u using a manual boost controller?
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Re: (Turbo E 604)
the actuator rod would be the bar coming out of the wastgate?
my car doesnt have a fmu anymore nor the emu that comes with this greddy kit.
I had a fuel pressure regulator installed for richness/lean, Im guessing thats manual? other wise my car has a complete stock greddy kit.
my car doesnt have a fmu anymore nor the emu that comes with this greddy kit.
I had a fuel pressure regulator installed for richness/lean, Im guessing thats manual? other wise my car has a complete stock greddy kit.
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Re: (KeithGSR)
heres some other discussion going on relating to the same issues, does this add anymore ideas?
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=881366
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=881366
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Re: (KeithGSR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KeithGSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the actuator rod would be the bar coming out of the wastgate?
my car doesnt have a fmu anymore nor the emu that comes with this greddy kit.
I had a fuel pressure regulator installed for richness/lean, Im guessing thats manual? other wise my car has a complete stock greddy kit.</TD></TR></TABLE>
uhhh very very bad idea. with nothing to bump presure you are probably detonating out the ***. whoever put that car together is a moron.....take the car to a good shop and spend the money.
my car doesnt have a fmu anymore nor the emu that comes with this greddy kit.
I had a fuel pressure regulator installed for richness/lean, Im guessing thats manual? other wise my car has a complete stock greddy kit.</TD></TR></TABLE>
uhhh very very bad idea. with nothing to bump presure you are probably detonating out the ***. whoever put that car together is a moron.....take the car to a good shop and spend the money.
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Re: (BoostedITR41)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BoostedITR41 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
uhhh very very bad idea. with nothing to bump presure you are probably detonating out the ***. whoever put that car together is a moron.....take the car to a good shop and spend the money.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hes running 310cc injectors.
uhhh very very bad idea. with nothing to bump presure you are probably detonating out the ***. whoever put that car together is a moron.....take the car to a good shop and spend the money.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hes running 310cc injectors.
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Re: (KeithGSR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KeithGSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the actuator rod would be the bar coming out of the wastgate?
my car doesnt have a fmu anymore nor the emu that comes with this greddy kit.
I had a fuel pressure regulator installed for richness/lean, Im guessing thats manual? other wise my car has a complete stock greddy kit.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you are not running the EMU from the Greddy kit what are you using to block the MAP sensor from seeing boost?
my car doesnt have a fmu anymore nor the emu that comes with this greddy kit.
I had a fuel pressure regulator installed for richness/lean, Im guessing thats manual? other wise my car has a complete stock greddy kit.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you are not running the EMU from the Greddy kit what are you using to block the MAP sensor from seeing boost?
#19
Re: (MachAF)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MachAF »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Hes running 310cc injectors.</TD></TR></TABLE>
must be running kinda shitty if you have 310s with no ems
Hes running 310cc injectors.</TD></TR></TABLE>
must be running kinda shitty if you have 310s with no ems
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Re: (Cruiser G)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cruiser G »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
must be running kinda shitty if you have 310s with no ems</TD></TR></TABLE>
I was thinking the same thing especially after VTEC kicks in. I remember the feeling of running 310's with nothing to control them. Sputtered like a lawn mower beyond 6000 rpm.
must be running kinda shitty if you have 310s with no ems</TD></TR></TABLE>
I was thinking the same thing especially after VTEC kicks in. I remember the feeling of running 310's with nothing to control them. Sputtered like a lawn mower beyond 6000 rpm.
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Re: (iiilgsrlll)
Vacuum leaks would not cause the turbo to not produce ANY boost. It would on the contrary make the turbo run max boost due to the wastegate not getting a vacuum signal.
There are only a couple explanations as to why the turbo would not build any boost..
1. You actually ARE building boost, but your boost gauge isn't reading it due to not being connected, etc. Since you are reading vacuum, and the needle moves with how you push the gas, chances are this is not the problem
2. You have a MASSIVE pre-turbo exhaust leak. You would definitely hear it for it to not build any boost. This would be located from the manifold to the head, or the turbo to the manifold.
3. Your wastegate actuator is broken, and it is just allowing the flapper to open. It could be a blown diaphram (although it would generally keep the wastegate shut in this case), or the arm could not be connected to the flapper anymore, which would cause the flapper to open at any exhaust pressure. This would cause all of the exhaust gas to bypass the turbine wheel, which would then cause no boost to be made.
4. Your turbo really is blown, but you would have driveability issues most likely. Your car would be burning a LOT of oil due to a blown seal, or the turbo would just not sound right when you tried to build boost.
5. You don't have a tight seal on the compressor housing, which would allow all of the boost it is trying to produce vent out to atmosphere before it even reaches the intercooler (just out the side of the turbo). A massive boost leak would cause this as well, but I assume you have all of the clamps and pipes on tightly/correctly. If this is happening, you could be overspinning the turbo as well, since the wastegate is not receiving any positive manifold pressure, which would keep the wastegate shut. Your boost gauge isn't seeing positive manifold pressure, since it is just leaking it out as it exits the turbo, which would make the turbo produce max boost, and spin a lot faster than it really should be.
There are only a couple explanations as to why the turbo would not build any boost..
1. You actually ARE building boost, but your boost gauge isn't reading it due to not being connected, etc. Since you are reading vacuum, and the needle moves with how you push the gas, chances are this is not the problem
2. You have a MASSIVE pre-turbo exhaust leak. You would definitely hear it for it to not build any boost. This would be located from the manifold to the head, or the turbo to the manifold.
3. Your wastegate actuator is broken, and it is just allowing the flapper to open. It could be a blown diaphram (although it would generally keep the wastegate shut in this case), or the arm could not be connected to the flapper anymore, which would cause the flapper to open at any exhaust pressure. This would cause all of the exhaust gas to bypass the turbine wheel, which would then cause no boost to be made.
4. Your turbo really is blown, but you would have driveability issues most likely. Your car would be burning a LOT of oil due to a blown seal, or the turbo would just not sound right when you tried to build boost.
5. You don't have a tight seal on the compressor housing, which would allow all of the boost it is trying to produce vent out to atmosphere before it even reaches the intercooler (just out the side of the turbo). A massive boost leak would cause this as well, but I assume you have all of the clamps and pipes on tightly/correctly. If this is happening, you could be overspinning the turbo as well, since the wastegate is not receiving any positive manifold pressure, which would keep the wastegate shut. Your boost gauge isn't seeing positive manifold pressure, since it is just leaking it out as it exits the turbo, which would make the turbo produce max boost, and spin a lot faster than it really should be.
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Re: (iiilgsrlll)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iiilgsrlll »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If you are not running the EMU from the Greddy kit what are you using to block the MAP sensor from seeing boost? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Missing link.
If you are not running the EMU from the Greddy kit what are you using to block the MAP sensor from seeing boost? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Missing link.
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Re: (Blazin Civic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blazin Civic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> If you have no missing link and the map sensor sees boost will it cause the car not to boost at all?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes because as soon as the MAP sees positive pressure it'll cut out and go into limp mode.
Yes because as soon as the MAP sees positive pressure it'll cut out and go into limp mode.