HellaBroke

First of all, I hope it's fine that I post here and 2nd of all This will be my First full on build. I'm no pro but i'm willing to learn and get my hands dirty. I've lurked around and watched/read many builds like Muckmans and CaliforniaDads. There was also a full on CRX Restoration that caught my eye.

I just posted an introduction in the intro section but ill post again.
Im 23, married, Infantry-US Army. My Daily is a 2013 Honda Fit Sport, and my Project car (this time) is a 1990 Honda CRX SI. Gunmetal-ish in color for the time being. I also apologize If I bounce around. I can't sit put or well.. keep an attention span of more than 10 minutes.

The goal for my CRX is pretty much to make it stupidly quick. The goal is about 500 Streetable horsepower.
Money isn't really much of a concern but I don't like spending money on things that will get upgraded later on. I've also been called a Hoarder by my local car team.. Which i still deny. Eta to get the Car back up and running is about the end of the 2014 year, Sooner if can.

Anyways, The Cars!

My Old S2000 Made about 207/161 n/a with just bolt ons


My CRX and my Old Ep3


And the new Addition (the Future Family Car put putter)



Now continuing on!
So I picked up my Crx from my buddy during tax season of last year. Don't really like to discuss price because well.. It's Expensive residing here in Hawaii for anything. It was completely stock and he had it for barely a month. the Previous owner before that was an older gentleman.
The motor was a D16a6 Sohc-non with about 2xx,xxx Miles and it was still a strong healthy motor when i drove it to and from work.

Here's the motor:


There was some wiring issues, Speaker wiring to be exact, that didn't impress me. So i replaced that and ended up doing a complete wire tuck:

And don't worry, I taped and loomed the wiring to make it more durable.

I finally said to hell with it and decided to sell the motor/trans/harness/ecu/gauge cluster to a couple Marines who lived across the island. Didn't make much off of it but it didn't bother me.

After the motor was pulled I got time to clean the engine bay and decided, "im going to shave the engine bay". It was the Best mistake ever. Sure it's gonna look nice but let's just say i'm not done yet due to the rain, weather, training, procrastination, etc.. etc..




_______________________________________________
So majority of all this was done last year. Let's speed up to present day.

I now still have half a shaved engine bay, No A/c Components in the cabin, I gutted the entire Car from front to back (including the Dash). A Leaking Sunroof.


I have a B20b4 Block Sitting in my living room. A B16 torn apart and sitting in the trunk of the Fit, and now Recently a B18a next to that said B16 in the trunk. lol (still not a hoarder.)

I picked up what I think is an LS Transmission, s80 no LSD.. etc. etc.



This is Grayson, we had 3 litters so far and i have yet to put a hault on buying car parts to get this little bugger snipped. lol..


For the time being i wanted to get the B16 together and just run the car n/a. Maybe do some autox and see what i can do with the car. I dropped off the b16 head off at a local machine shop and they put in my complete SuperTech Valvetrain and did a competition angle grind. I wanted to port and polish the thing but i had no header or intake manifold that i wanted to use for the the finale.

I picked up some ACL STD Race Bearings and got the cylinder walls rehoned. All im missing now is new Piston Rings.

I recently moved so i'm still trying to find all my car parts. I literally started with a Block from one guy, a head from another, the trans from a friend of a friend. I had to piece everything together that I don't have. With that problem, I had the mentality of, "well since i don't have it, I might as well get the upgraded version of it" In which i did.
This pic is of my little Table at the old Place.

I used to live on the 2nd floor with just a patio and Street Parking. Yes, that was my Garage. I made good use of it. Here's what my "garage" looked like.

What sucks is that my new place is a 2nd floor and now I don't have a "garage". Luckily for me that my wife likes cars too and she has permitted me to have a little corner in the living room for all my car parts. Our 2nd bedroom is also our storage room for all my military Gear and car parts/interior/junk/extras.. etc.

Attention span is kind of falling off but I still have more to post! I think it's time for a smoke break..

HellaBroke

So where were we.
I understand that this is a Forced Induction thread and That is indeed what i plan to talk about here. I was hoping maybe some seasoned veterans can come in and chime in/ criticize/ opinionate on my future set up.


----Edit----- 30June2014

So the new goal: A Quick 400 horsepower capable CRX that is not only fast but efficient.

Let's start off with the Car Parts that I have:
(only going to list parts i will be using)

PR3 B16 Head with Complete Supertech Valvetrain and competition Valve grind. Stock Cams for the time being. No port and Polish as of yet
B18A LS Block. LA Sleeves, Welded Block guard, Eagle Rods w/ ARP 2000 Rod bolts, SRP 8.8:1 Pistons
Misc. Gasket Sets
22T Water Pump
B16 Oil Pump
Moroso Oil Pan (tapped already for turbo/ and oil temp sensor)
ARP Head Bolts
GE IM Gasket
Gates Timing Belt
Bolt Boys Full Bolt Kit
ARP Pressure Plate Bolts
ARP Crank Pulley Bolt
Vtec Solenoid
DOHC Vtec Distributor
Ap2 S2000 Gauge Cluster w/ Pigtails
LS Transmission
Hasport 62A Motor Mounts
BWR Map/TPS Sensors
BWR Cam Gears
AEM High Flow Fuel Rail
AEM Fuel Pressure Regulator
Exedy OEM Replacement clutch (just to get the Car up)
NGK Spark Plug (Blue) Wires

I'm still missing quite a bit of things, keep in mind that I didn't get a complete motor or anything, I had to source everything myself. I even spent 2 months looking for a Vtec Solenoid.

I still need to finish my brake lines since i'm relocating the brake proportion valve on the inside and redoing the fuel lines so I can use SS Braided lines with an inline fuel filter.
I'm also relocating the windshield wiper motor to the inside.

Anyways, I got the B18 for a really good price but it's been sitting for awhile at a local machine shop so im going to Rehone the cylinder walls and possibly change the pistons and see what kind of wrist pins are in it. I'd like to raise the compression to about a 10.1:1 compression.

Here in Hawaii we have 92 octane and I'd like to use Water Meth injection to help me get to my goal. I'm also considering a turbo from TheShodan.
As for the turbo parts, I don't have anything yet but i'm looking into Sheepey's Turbo manifolds and to be different, i'd like to veer away from the Air to air intercooler setups and try out the Air to water setups. The CRX doesn't really have a lot of space up front without trimming. I'd like to hide as much as possible and keep the Rex fairly stock looking.

I havnt set a budget but my goal is to get the car up by the end of the 2014 year.. or my birthday (31 Dec.) =p

That's all I have for now. Please stay Tuned!

HellaBroke

June 30, 2014

I kinda of fell off from Honda-Tech for a bit. I went to Ft. Irwin for NTC (training) and been having marital issues. So i'm just going to jump into it.

I've decided that 400whp is plenty of power for being in Hawaii. it's fun and enough power in a little CRX that any more and i would more than likely break traction.
I wont be doing anything extreme to the exterior. Just repaint, body work, functional suspension set up with some decent wheels. What I want is simple on the outside, quiet 400whp Air/water recirculating sleeper. I'm not fond of showing off my cars or where i live, i've always had the paranoia of my **** getting stolen. if i can muffle or recirculate the sound of the bov / wastegate and reduce the sound of the turbo, id be pleased. im just weird like that i know.

With that being said, I've considered getting a Garrett T3/T4 50 trim Hybrid from http://www.go-autoworks-store.com/gat350tr.html

Here's the specs:

Garrett T3/T4 50 trim Hybrid 4 Bolt Discharge
COMPRESSOR SPECS:
flow: 46 lbs/min 588cfm
50 TRIM WHEEL
TURBINE SPECS: .63 A/R HOUSING or .48
STAGE 3 WHEEL
oil lubricated centersection.
supportable of 450hp

And the following things are what i plan or would like to use in the build.

GSC T1 Turbo Cams
Edelbrock Performer X IM
Rywire wire harness
BWR or Sheepy Ram Horn Manifold
IDK what BOV or Wastegate yet.
BWR LSV conversion kit
Hondata S300 v3
Z10 Crank Girdle
10.5:1 Forged Pistons

Koni Yellow Sport Shocks with Ground control coilovers.
complete polyurethane bushing kit
Bosch 044 Inline Fuel Pump
Grams 750 or 1000cc Injectors

and prolly some other things i forgot. Goal is to rev to 9k rpms


I finally took apart the b18a block. Found out that the pistons were made by SRP. from what i understand they're like the little brother of JE. Reviews weren't that great either. So i've decided to sell the SRP 8.8:1 pistons and go ahead with some weisco/je/cp or whoever 10.5:1 pistons, if you think about it. people are boosting stock b16s with what 10.2:1 around my power goal just fine?





Once i get my z10 crank girdle ill take the block to the machine shop and have them go over everything, possibly resurface the deck and make sure the line bore is good and rehone/deglaze the cylinder walls since it's been sitting for so long.



I also recently picked up a Snap On Brake flaring tool kit so i can finish my break line tuck. it's pretty nice even though i wont be using it too often.

dcmatt

iTrader: (7)

Should be a good build. Im a former army brat and spent some time over there. Lived on wheeler and in wahiawa for a lil while. Had alot of friends over in mililani though cause they were still letting local kids go to school on base. I bet getting parts is a pain in the *** ober that way though.

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

We both know why the sky is blue.

Anyways, good luck with the build. CRXs tend to be quick. 500 whp is hardly going to be streetable to be honest. That's a ton of power. You should think about how you plan to get it down too. IE suspension/tires. At 500 whp you def want LSD. Do you have E85 over there? I know you said 92+Water meth. But just make sure you have a reliable system for the injection and get it tuned. I've seen 93 Octane put down 500+ HP.

I'm in for the build. Love the CRX.

m4xwellmurd3r

Please tell me youre gonna ditch the stock injectors. Theyre almost maxed out as it is on a gsr

Besides that it looks like its gonna be a quick car. 500hp is a LOT of muscle for that little car

HellaBroke

I may have exaggerated with 500, but if it's doable. It would be nice.
And yeah, Parts are somewhat hard to come by. I absolutely hate having to buy parts via Forumshawaii and Craigslist.

I'm still debating on what kind of suspension to get. I have the stock suspension and i believe are D2 coils on it right now. Suspension parts will definitely be beefed up.

I'm also considering either buying another Transmission and rebuilding my LS with carbon syncros and an LSD. The only place I know that has E85 is on Pearl Harbor in a controlled area. So 92 + water meth... or Race gas, which id prefer to stay away from is the only option.

Sorry if i created any confusion but I was going to get the B16 together just so i can drive the car around again until i have Everything for the LS. That's what the stock injectors were for.
I'm considering getting the Grams performance injectors (no resister box needed)

I've been building a relation with one of the more reputable tuners here and i'm going to try and get him to tune my car. I don't have it yet but I'm eventually going to buy the Hondata s300

HellaBroke

So it's been awhile, been quite distracted with things and didn't really get much done to the car. It's been raining a lot and i'm currently trying to trade parking spots with my neighbor whose parked closer than me. Once that happens i should be able to reach my extension cord to the crx from the townhouse.

I finally got some piston rings for the B16 and started cleaning the pistons and taking off the old ones. The first one went smoothly but the second one kinda of haulted everything. I went to take the top piston ring off and the ringland fell on the ground. So i said to hell with that and decided to just put the b16 to the side and just focus on the built LS already. I can let the crx sit for a little longer.

Here's some pictures of the the stock cast PR3 pistons.

And here's Piston #2 that prevented me from putting the b16 together.


On a side note, About a week or 2 I went to HIN - HNL and got to meet Trinity Dang. I saw Danie Riel from across but her line was wayyyy too long..




The Car show wasn't too great, there wasn't many cars really compared to the last few car shows. Here's a video of HIN 2014 a local photography group called 'State 50' whipped up.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Heh. I didn't even think they still had HIN.. I hadn't been to those in almost 10 years. thought the whole franchise was take over by Eibach or something to that effect.

I'm a bit curious though as to why you seem insistent on using Stock pistons / rods for 400whp and more when these parts are not stout enough to handle it.

underrated

iTrader: (3)

Aloha,
Just wanted to know who you were gonna use to tune the hondata? Also there's a gas station in town that sells 100 octane.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Let me be the first to say thank you for serving our country. personally having family and friends that are serving/have served in the armed forces I know your sacrifice is not a small one.

that sleeved block worries me. a sleeved block does not require a blockguard, nor are they routinely welded in. I hope the bore and hone was done after the blockguard, if not just pressing in the blockguard can distort the bores, add in the welding and it warps even worse.

also invest in forged internals... regardless of what fuel you use the stock cast parts just simply aren't strong enough... you'll be pulling the motor out to repair/replace quicker than you think.

I also hope you aren't putting stock internals in the sleeved block, depending on what bore it is (84.5 max, some have done FI builds at 85 but it's a crapshoot) you might damage the sleeves to the point where the block is useless, you also risk damaging your turbo by having little bits of broken piston (and what ever else breaks) pass through the turbine wheel ultimately destroying it.

HellaBroke

Oh, as far as I've been on island they've had HIN. There's also other shows like: Ultimate Showdown, Spocom, Wekfest, Traffic Jam (new), LoweredStandards, and a few others that i can think of.

As for the Stock B16 block, I originally planned to use it just to get the CRX up and running N/a to drive the crx around and maybe do some autox at the Aloha Stadium. As for Turbo, I have full intention of using the fully built LS block with my built b16 head.
Sorry, i tend to jump around a lot. Lost a few screws in the head after a few head injuries =/

I've been building relations with Sean (originally from Munkey Wurks, then Premiere and now tunes at Street Kulture). I have no idea who sells 100 octane so i may stick with 92 and if needbe, Water Meth.

The Army has been stressful and I appreciate your kind words. I joined the Army right after highschool graduation and been in for 5 years now. I'll admit that transitioning back to the civilian world is not going to be easy but I always make do.

It's a common thing here, that i've seen, that the block guards get welded in after the sleeving process. Then the bore and hone.It already has forged internals (Eagle Rods, JE Pistons). I lack lots of hands on experience but i like to think i'm doing something right. It's nice to see the more experienced posters, like yourself come into my thread. I see you in almost every topic in this section.


I've decided to Put the B16 off to the side and primarily focus on the LS, I've also looked into the Z10 Block Girdle and getting that installed with some ARP hardware and an align hone, probably from a more local reputable machine shop like Snyders.

If i were to do everything again, I'd love to send my b20 to the Mach1nest for all the work, His work is phenomenal.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Yea a lot of my friends have had issues making the transition. when you've been programmed to fight and there's no one left to fight it really is hard. one of my army friends chased a guy in traffic with his sidearm because he cut us off and gave us the finger.

yea I try to share my knowledge and help people (that want it) as much as possible.

personally I don't think you need a girdle and main studs seeing as this is mostly a street car. stock honda main bolts will withstand 500hp without issue. the girdle is only really useful on motors that see extended high rpm/load operation.

HellaBroke

Oh yeah..., I went on R&R back in 2010 and my mother let me drive the car home from the airport. Saw a trashbag on the side of the freeway and i swerved to the opposing side and increased speed. My mother didn't understand my reasoning but It felt natural to me.

I recently found out that there's a drag strip opening to the public, I'm very tempted to build the crx for that. I still have my Fit as a daily so the crx can be free game. It's kind of hard to explain what i want and i feel like im over my mind when i try to. But I don't want to cheap out on any parts or buy oem just to upgrade them later on. 500whp is a lot, even 300 is plenty, yet id love to have a high horsepower car. When i get closer in the build i'll still need to figure out the right turbo to get, cams and a few other things. I'm pretty dead set on a Twin scroll Sheepey Manifold.

underrated

iTrader: (3)

100 is sold at the 76 station in mccully. Don't hold your breathe on the race track, it's been a rumor for a while now.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

A "divided" manifold (what you are thinking is twin scrolled actually is not) will make your turbo choice limited, and will actually make your 300whp experience worse, not better. The attributes you are looking for in a true twin scroll setup are from stock evolution small turbos, not the sizes you're thinking. A simply T3 based turbo will more than satisfy your need.

HellaBroke

Ah ok, i think i know where that's at.
What about the Track that's open where the old strip was? I was told it's open but space is limited so if you go, you have to run your car or leave.

Ah okay, and you're talking about the 16g turbos?
I'm all for supporting the little man like Sheepey instead of Full Blown. what kind of turbo would you recommend? or am i still on in the early stages of my build.
Ideally, i'd like to have 2 maps. 1 for daily with some power and a 2nd that's all Go

turbomaniac

i think you must proceed with the b18 block, although the LA Sleeves and Welded Block guard must be checked by an expert before building the engine. Welded block guard can damage sleeves if the block guard is to tight.

b16 is small and b20 isnt suppose to rev 9000 rpms...

you will need also valve springs and better valves, hondata, 70mm throttle, inlet manifold, about larger injectors, msd ignition and of course the turbo.

if you want a 1000 hp setup you must go to large turbo and IMO you dont have to pay a fortune for billet wheels, etc.
A simple garrett GT4202R or GT4294R and a 72XX precision, will do the job

if money is no problem than a billet wheel turbo sould be prefered, but with a compressor wheel inducer dia no smaller than 65mm

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Yea you constantly are looking for any roadside debris that could be concealing an IED or other dangers so I totally get why you did what you did. it's hard to unlearn certain things.

if you need any help or have any questions about your build feel free to pm me any time, I'm more than happy to help

omiehomie

hey bro god bless you and your family for your serving our country.

also listen to the advice Shodan gives, its dead on and the guy has a lot of experience, and will suggest a turbo that properly fits your setup. highly recommended.

in regards to the block, im not sure how mechanically inclined you are, but with whatever block you decide to use and crankshaft, take it to a machine shop and have them mic everything.

i just redid my low miles b18c1 engine. i had the engine for a very long time and always took good care of it and didnt horse-beat it. i didnt think anything needed to be bored out etc.

after the machine shop mic'd everything my cylinder walls ovaled up top, and my crankshaft was out of spec too and i needed .10 oversized bearings.

triple check the rotating assembly bro if you want things to last a long time and you can beat on the motor as well with peace of mind.

HellaBroke

I understand what your saying, The b16 was originally meant to just get the car up and running so i can actually drive the Crx around but since i dont feel like putting any more money into refreshening the block to oe specs i'm putting that to the side and most likely will be selling it.

The head is already Built with a complete Supertech Valvetrain, oversize valves, seals, bronze valve guides. etc. The only thing i havn't done was a port and polish and change out the b16 cams as of yet.

I was originally going to do a full b20-Vtec build but i couldn't pass up the B18a1. It was built by a reputable machine shop here and I have faith in everything they do. All i need to do with it is rehone the cylinder walls since it's been sitting for awhile. I'm also tempted to get a Z10 crank girdle and some GSR Arp Main Bolts along with an align hone.

Money isn't really an issue, it's just waiting for it =p
I budget myself to about $1,000 a month

I'll definitely pm you if I can't find the answers myself. Thanks for the advice and kind words so far!


Oh definitely, TheShodan seems like a very well round knowledgeable fellow, and ill be sure to pm him about the right choice turbo when the time comes.
As for being mechanically inclined. I lack the experience but I strive for knowledge and always bug my friends at the team shop on things. I'm learning fast and understand the basics. I absolutely refuse to pay a shop to fix my vehicles when I know i can do it myself.

The b18a1 is already assembled and checked out. No issues. If anything ill ensure again that everything is just right. prolly get it balanced if it hasn't been already.

Oh, and thanks for the kind words. After this upcoming training i may be put in for an M.E.B, which i suppose you can think of it as a Medical Discharge.

underrated

iTrader: (3)

The drags at the old track are 1/8 th mile. I think they're trying to run it like the tv show street outlaws. Some watch too much tv lol. Found out today that Ron's sells race gas also. I went by the e85 station on Pearl Harbor to if there's a way I could fill up gas cans, the only form of payment is a GSA card, so that's a no go.

Are you going to traffic jam2 this weekend?

turbomaniac

IMO your head is ready.
for cams you could go stock from b16b engine, or skunk pro 2+. I havent try pro 3+ to turbo engine so i cant tell you my opinion about them...

i dont know if the girdle can hold the crank, it would be nice if you can find a car that did last with the mod you are about to do. dont count on words, count on things you saw with your own eyes and trust the opinion of person that they have b20 block with b16 head and 600hp....

in my expierience, every time i tried k24 from crv block to k20a head, i had a blown rod, exept the last one that i kept the rev limiter at 8000.

my opinion about port grinding is that material thickness is the only limit. Inlet and exaust must be opend smouthly as long as it gets. i suggest you to finish with the 80 grind the inlet and with the 1000 (if possible) the exhaust.

the inlet and exhasut valve port separator must be sharp, and the matching between inlet manifold and head must be perfect. There must be always a "scale" after exhaust port and exhaust manifold.

HellaBroke

Yeah, 1/8th mile is what i've heard. I wish KRP had enough resources to open up the 1/4 mile. =/

Street Kulture also has Race gas for sale too, but i don't think i'd like to go that route just yet.

I will definitely be at Traffic Jam2, do you have an IG?

I'm actually considering the GSC Cams, I believe they're a little bit better than ITRs but less than s2p1's iirc. orrr...... i could be obnoxious and go with Sheepey Vtec AS1's
And I can't remember which LMA's i have. If they're the older ones, id like to upgrade them to the newer ITR/h22 ones with a bigger surface area. I have yet to unwrap my head from the machine shop but from what i can see through the Saran Wrap, they did a really good job.

A lot of people have told me it's not necessary to have a crank girdle but it's a good piece of mind. and just like in the Army, "Better to have and not need, than to need and not have."

As for the Porting and polishing. I won't be doing it for this build but the next one I definitely want to send all my stuff to the Mach1nest for the machine work.

underrated

iTrader: (3)

Yes KRP is taking baby steps! Do you know how much the gas is at street kulture? Ill pm you my IG, what's yours?