Originally Posted by wantboost

100% methanol will not cool down as much as a mix with water or 100% water using the same nozzle, since you lose some of the cooling abilities of the water and the methanol burns faster than it lowers IAT's

Methanol is a fuel, it makes the AFR richer

there are many inherent problems with running 100% methanol, namely safety as it boils at 148F. but that aside, you will lose a good amount of torque generated by the steam effect on the power stroke of the engine cycle leading to more torque. (Same principle that Steam engines were designed around) . Also at 100% methanol you are basically running a dual fuel engine.

Just be careful around the DOT with 100% methanol, if they ask tell them its 50/50. Otherwise tell them its HAZMAT class ORM-D, some of them love to bust your stones, as it has a quite distinct smell. Otherwise you can get a good fine for transporting a Combustible liquid, and corrosive without proper documents. IT IS ILLEGAL TO TRANSPORT (YES EVEN RUN IN YOUR CAR ON PUBLIC STREETS) METHANOL WITH A CONCENTRATION GREATER THAN 50% WITHOUT HAZMAT DOCUMENTATION.

Not to mention it chews through cheap plastic lines and on hot days when under hood temps get into the 150s it evaporates inside the line to the nozzle and can actually force its way past the nozzle causing fueling issues. Plus when running 100% meth with injection you need to be sure your tune is rock solid and that you have some sort of fail safe on the injection system so that if flow rates drop even the slightest bit it will shut down the pump and revert the ecu to a safe tune.

I've also see people running 100% meth for injection burn their cars to the ground (namely rx-7s but hey lol) since methanol burns with an invisible flame you won't know that anything is going wrong until its too late

Originally Posted by hondad6

aeok18109 if you stick to threads like this one you will be good. Just remember there are a lot of flamers, and to ignore them. they are not worth the electricity to post a response to.

Originally Posted by dcmatt

Thats a good bit tighter then the last bottomend isn't it?

Originally Posted by CaliforniaDad

Okay well, I put my bottom end together and here is what im at now.

Main bearing clearance
1. .0016
2. .0015
3. .0016
4. .0016
5. .0015

Rod bearing clearance
1. .0015
2. .0015
3. .0015
4. .0015

Ring end gap
Top ring .019
2nd ring .023
Oil ring .020

Originally Posted by Turbo-LS

When I assembled my bottom end my tolerences were about the same on the mains and.001 more on the rods with acl duraglides. once the coating wears off on the bearnig they loosened up to a more comfortable spec. I run 10w30 oil in my ride. Now if its oem bearings id go lighter on the oil

Originally Posted by tepid1

I hope you plan to run some light oil, CaliDad.

Originally Posted by CaliforniaDad

I'm running ACL race bearings, The rod bearings are the HX series so they have the extra .001 clearance. The mains are ACL race as well. I plan on running the 5-40wt Torco SR1 oil after break-in. My last build I was running the same exact bearings and when I tore down the engine the bearings looked great!! So I'm going with what I know worked.

Originally Posted by rich7777

And keep those oil temps under strict control

I'd image a set of either pink or red OEM bearings would land him somewhere more reasonable..

Originally Posted by g0at

How's the wrinkle paint holding on your intercooler piping Calidad? I'm looking at doing a similar thing. Any chipping, flaking?

Originally Posted by Turbo-LS

As long as you properly prep the surface the paint wil adhear and stick and not flake off. Painting is mostly about the prep before hand and then knowing how to spray. Thin light coats dont try to completely cover in one coat. Sand the surface and your golden.