My B18C1 Engine Build/Assembly
04-16-2012, 01:21 PM
#1902
No-Traction = Fun
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Re: My B18C1 Engine Build/Assembly
This Is what I bought to use on the camshaft install.
04-16-2012, 01:45 PM
#1905
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Re: My B18C1 Engine Build/Assembly
If you have time:
http://www.team-integra.net/forum/20...installed.html
04-16-2012, 02:51 PM
#1906
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Re: My B18C1 Engine Build/Assembly
im also making quite alot of decisions on my build according to this thread, gsc cams will be going in mine for sure (that decision i made from gringos thread) and i will be running a surfer but i chose the miniram as a manifold from go auto. im gonna have to go back and read about what u used for internals. im not hell bet on getting to 500 but i def want to be in the 400 - 450 club. cant wait to see what changes just the cams alone make before u start tweaking it.
04-16-2012, 03:58 PM
#1907
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Re: My B18C1 Engine Build/Assembly
Def good info in here. 400 is fun but I want to keep going with my build. I have a spare block I think will be getting sent out to bensen toward end of year and next year going to put on a new reaper if its available and sleeved block with the internals I currently have and meth injection and 93 pump for a hopeful goal or 550 not sure the limitations of pump with meth if I can I'll be going for 600
04-16-2012, 04:04 PM
#1908
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Re: My B18C1 Engine Build/Assembly
im sure i will keep creepin up there lol, im gonna build this thing on stock sleeves though and see what happens, whats the wait time for a benson block he must be crazy busy i hear his work is second to none.
i also want to "try" and address the traction issues, i have problems at 300 i can just imagine how u 450-500 guys are doin.
i also want to "try" and address the traction issues, i have problems at 300 i can just imagine how u 450-500 guys are doin.
04-16-2012, 04:19 PM
#1909
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Re: My B18C1 Engine Build/Assembly
Boost by gear with traction bars and tires and LSD is all you need. I'm at 400 ish and get perfect traction 2-5 gears. 1st is useless but getting a 4 port solenoid and smaller spring to fix that and I'm on fallen ze-912 all season performance tires.
04-16-2012, 04:38 PM
#1910
Honda-Tech Member
Re: My B18C1 Engine Build/Assembly
No i just used Regular 20w50.. I wouldn't worry about it..
I emailed Greg@GSC before i put my cams in my car a while ago and here is what he said:
"Use a conventional oil, id suggest rotela t and when you start it keep it up around 3000 till the engine gets good solid oil pressure (1-2 minutes) and keep it above 1000 varying till it reaches full operating oil temp. then let it cool all the way down (a good hour or so) and restart it again and warm up to full operating oil temp and then let it cool all the way back down.. then fire it up and warm it up to operating temp and beat the **** out of it. that's how you guys should break in all of your cams fyi and make sure to change your oil in the first 1500 miles for parkerized lobes (evo X, honda, and subi and toyota) and keep it on a conventional oil for the first 2 engine oil change interval."
i lol'ed at what he said about beating the **** out of it...
Anyway all i did was keep it at 2000rpm for 20 mins and it was pretty much good.
I emailed Greg@GSC before i put my cams in my car a while ago and here is what he said:
"Use a conventional oil, id suggest rotela t and when you start it keep it up around 3000 till the engine gets good solid oil pressure (1-2 minutes) and keep it above 1000 varying till it reaches full operating oil temp. then let it cool all the way down (a good hour or so) and restart it again and warm up to full operating oil temp and then let it cool all the way back down.. then fire it up and warm it up to operating temp and beat the **** out of it. that's how you guys should break in all of your cams fyi and make sure to change your oil in the first 1500 miles for parkerized lobes (evo X, honda, and subi and toyota) and keep it on a conventional oil for the first 2 engine oil change interval."
i lol'ed at what he said about beating the **** out of it...
Anyway all i did was keep it at 2000rpm for 20 mins and it was pretty much good.
04-16-2012, 04:43 PM
#1911
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Re: My B18C1 Engine Build/Assembly
im in the process of changing tires and rims as well i just keep finding other parts to buy first lol, such a dilema, never enough money, im gonna go with 15x8 949 wheels and im gonna give the hankook ventus rs3s a shot at 225/45/15 i was looking at traction bars too but will wait till i have more power, lsd and carbon synchros will go in over the winter as well as the pistons and rods.
also i wanted to ask calidad if the brakes he went with are direct oem replacement or did u upgrade to 11" rotors and bigger calipers?? my brakes are terrible right now and this will be my next purchase.
also i wanted to ask calidad if the brakes he went with are direct oem replacement or did u upgrade to 11" rotors and bigger calipers?? my brakes are terrible right now and this will be my next purchase.
04-16-2012, 04:46 PM
#1912
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Re: My B18C1 Engine Build/Assembly
Nitto Neo Gens + Boost by gear + corner baancing = 550whp in 3rd and 630ish in 4th!
Still on an open Diff and no traction bars..
Calidad, what size wheels/tires you got?
04-16-2012, 04:47 PM
#1913
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Re: My B18C1 Engine Build/Assembly
Type r calipers with mini cooper s base model rotors are a brake up
Grade and cheap to do and give you more options for pads with. Type r calipers and no machine work is required on the rotors
Grade and cheap to do and give you more options for pads with. Type r calipers and no machine work is required on the rotors
04-16-2012, 04:57 PM
#1914
Honda-Tech Member
Re: My B18C1 Engine Build/Assembly
ya ive read that one i was just wondering what he thinks of those hawk rotors and pads and if they are oem replacement or not. i had my mind made up to go that route but im just exploring all options. i dont think hes even received them yet though.
04-16-2012, 05:02 PM
#1915
Re: My B18C1 Engine Build/Assembly
The HP+ pads are a street/circuit pad that keeps the GS-R caliper in its place. the New hawk rotors are OEM sized to fit with OEM calipers, but I'm more of a fan of the Type R caliper/Cooper Rotor upgrade with Motul 5.1 or RBF 600 fluid. No super blue or valvoline.
04-16-2012, 06:57 PM
#1917
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Re: My B18C1 Engine Build/Assembly
can fluid really make that much of a difference in braking, i get that it can withstand more heat but actual pedal feel and performance??
04-16-2012, 07:06 PM
#1918
No-Traction = Fun
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Re: My B18C1 Engine Build/Assembly
I haven't received the Hawk HP plus pads and rotors yet, but yes Direct swap, no modifications needed at all. Besides pulling your face off the dash after a good hard brake. I have a buddy that runs them on his evo IV and his car brakes like an indy car. First time he showed my I was like OMG bro,,,,thats crazy!!
04-16-2012, 07:12 PM
#1921
No-Traction = Fun
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Re: My B18C1 Engine Build/Assembly
No i just used Regular 20w50.. I wouldn't worry about it..
I emailed Greg@GSC before i put my cams in my car a while ago and here is what he said:
"Use a conventional oil, id suggest rotela t and when you start it keep it up around 3000 till the engine gets good solid oil pressure (1-2 minutes) and keep it above 1000 varying till it reaches full operating oil temp. then let it cool all the way down (a good hour or so) and restart it again and warm up to full operating oil temp and then let it cool all the way back down.. then fire it up and warm it up to operating temp and beat the **** out of it. that's how you guys should break in all of your cams fyi and make sure to change your oil in the first 1500 miles for parkerized lobes (evo X, honda, and subi and toyota) and keep it on a conventional oil for the first 2 engine oil change interval."
i lol'ed at what he said about beating the **** out of it...
Anyway all i did was keep it at 2000rpm for 20 mins and it was pretty much good.
I emailed Greg@GSC before i put my cams in my car a while ago and here is what he said:
"Use a conventional oil, id suggest rotela t and when you start it keep it up around 3000 till the engine gets good solid oil pressure (1-2 minutes) and keep it above 1000 varying till it reaches full operating oil temp. then let it cool all the way down (a good hour or so) and restart it again and warm up to full operating oil temp and then let it cool all the way back down.. then fire it up and warm it up to operating temp and beat the **** out of it. that's how you guys should break in all of your cams fyi and make sure to change your oil in the first 1500 miles for parkerized lobes (evo X, honda, and subi and toyota) and keep it on a conventional oil for the first 2 engine oil change interval."
i lol'ed at what he said about beating the **** out of it...
Anyway all i did was keep it at 2000rpm for 20 mins and it was pretty much good.