1point7T

part 3

well, so far so good..

i disconnected the distributor (to prevent spark/fuel injection)
and cranked the motor 3 or 4 times for about 20-30 seconds, letting the starter cool in between.. i did this to 'prime' the engine with oil

checked the oil, it was a little lower, so i added some

then, i reconnected the distributor and turned the key again, anxiously awaiting the inevitible clunk of brand new rods flying into the cylinder walls, or pistons shattering. but instead, after a few revs, the engine started..

70 psi of oil pressure,
apexi turbo timer (stock O2 sensor) showed 12:1 a/f ratio..
42 psi of fuel pressure (b&m mounted on fuel rail)
ignition was missing a little bit (timing gun wasn't constantly blinking..)

after warming up for about 10 mins:
35 psi of oil pressure,
about 18 inches of vacuum,
apexi showed 10:1 a/f ratio..
42 psi of fuel pressure
timing is at 14 degrees.. i think
14 degrees is the first of the three marks on the crank pulley closest to the TDC mark right?

i adjusted the fpr to get the fuel pressure down to 30 psi (with vacuum line attached)

still 10:1 a/f ratio..

tapping the gas seemed to "reset" the ecu's awareness of the a/f, and it jumped to 14.7:1

so now, after about 15-20 mins at idle..
35 psi oil pressure
180 degrees oil temp
14.7:1 a/f
210 degrees coolant temp
~18 inches of vacuum
timing more smooth..
steady idle..

i turned off the car and checked the oil.. a little low again, so i added some more..

well, i didn't really want to start it, or drive it again, but this is what i built it for...

so i start it up, and go out to break in the rings..

i cut off the flange at the end of the stock headers to put on the downpipe (shut up, i didn't realize at the time that one could buy those if one were so inclined).
so with a reducer and a u-bolt, the headers are held inside the cat's flange, and it leaks/rattles a bit.. i think i'm going to get a flange welded on tonite..

driving:

hmm.. i'm driving a '00 Si daily.. hydraulic clutch, power steering, NA b16..
throw me in a '92 GS-R, cable clutch, Action 2MD (6-puck), ACT street-lite, no p/s bastardB17...
talk about differences, holy clutch pedal pressure....

and this thing is loud, not like 'oooh sport compact with nice exhaust' loud
not 'eh, sport compact with Hyper-Buzz exhaust' loud
i'm talking 'there's a huge leak right at the end of the headers and it's knocking around all over the place exhaust' loud
i don't think the neighbor's liked it at all, but it was only 7:30 or 8:00, so I don't care.

surprisingly, I didn't stall at all.. the clutch pedal feels strong like bull, but engagement is smooth
the car pulls decently at part throttle and low rpms, i didn't exceed 4500 rpms, and i'd like to tell you i didn't exceed 50% throttle, but i don't really know where i was at.. i didn't floor it or anything, but what's 50%?

all in all i'm fairly happy, still a little scared though..
i'm running the untuned - uberdata chip i was running last summer when i spun a rod bearing.. it lasted something like 3K miles.. and ran reallly well, but rich
i think it'll be fine, especially with the dizzy turned back 2 degrees

the plan is to 'baby' it for 500 miles
put the turbo back on
then dyno-tune

damn

Meat_Wagon

get a good tune on it and floor the **** out of it. Don't baby it. You will regret it later.

1point7T

so it might be nothing.. but should a new motor burn any oil?

my pcv system is basically not connected, so i could be getting a lot of blow-by venting to the atmosphere
i'm not sure yet if it's burning/losing oil.. i'll post again tomorrow maybe..