MORE overheating advice needed - thanks for putting up with me
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MORE overheating advice needed - thanks for putting up with me
OK everyone and anyone who can help - my turbo GSR is giving me all hell when it comes to keeping cool for more than about 20 min of driving.
I decided I had a blown headgasket initially (MONTHS ago); replaced HG. When head was off I checked for cracks and warps and everything seemed fine and dandy. Before this I couldn't drive 5 minutes - after HG replaced it was as it is now... fine if I baby it, but if I try to pass or accelerate or anything silly like and drive for more than 20-25 min then it starts overheating.
I've tried:
new thermostats (2 or 3 - currently Jackson Racing 160F)
drilled 6 x 3/16" holes in thermostat
new radiator caps (3)
redline water wetter w/ all distilled and with 50% coolant
checked water pump - was replaced about 12000 miles ago and is in perfect condition
pressure tested radiator; no leaks
In any case when the car starts heating up, running the heater full blast keeps her cool even if I drive pretty hard.
I still kind of suspect a warped cyl head is allowing the HG to leak but perhaps less than before; the only check for this I've heard is to run the engine with the rad cap off. Before I replaced the HG I could see bubbles coming up the filler neck when I did this. Now I don't see the bubbles but the coolant DOES gradually overflow the filler neck if I idle it without the cap on.
One question I don't know the real answer to: does coolant ENTER the radiator through the UPPER hose or the lower hose?
When I had original headgasket problem I used a lot of "stop leak" aluminum powder type products in hopes that my coolant loss was through a leaky radiator (and at dad's advice) and now I'm wondering if this stuff has completely blocked flow thru the radiator in places and this back pressure is why the radiator overflows when the cap is off. Of course if the coolant flow is the opposite direction from what I'm thinking that wouldn't work. Right now I'm running some heavy-duty radiator flush in hopes that it might break up some of the stuff, just in case this is what's going on. Dunno if it will help but worth a shot.
Thanks for any help in advance.
I decided I had a blown headgasket initially (MONTHS ago); replaced HG. When head was off I checked for cracks and warps and everything seemed fine and dandy. Before this I couldn't drive 5 minutes - after HG replaced it was as it is now... fine if I baby it, but if I try to pass or accelerate or anything silly like and drive for more than 20-25 min then it starts overheating.
I've tried:
new thermostats (2 or 3 - currently Jackson Racing 160F)
drilled 6 x 3/16" holes in thermostat
new radiator caps (3)
redline water wetter w/ all distilled and with 50% coolant
checked water pump - was replaced about 12000 miles ago and is in perfect condition
pressure tested radiator; no leaks
In any case when the car starts heating up, running the heater full blast keeps her cool even if I drive pretty hard.
I still kind of suspect a warped cyl head is allowing the HG to leak but perhaps less than before; the only check for this I've heard is to run the engine with the rad cap off. Before I replaced the HG I could see bubbles coming up the filler neck when I did this. Now I don't see the bubbles but the coolant DOES gradually overflow the filler neck if I idle it without the cap on.
One question I don't know the real answer to: does coolant ENTER the radiator through the UPPER hose or the lower hose?
When I had original headgasket problem I used a lot of "stop leak" aluminum powder type products in hopes that my coolant loss was through a leaky radiator (and at dad's advice) and now I'm wondering if this stuff has completely blocked flow thru the radiator in places and this back pressure is why the radiator overflows when the cap is off. Of course if the coolant flow is the opposite direction from what I'm thinking that wouldn't work. Right now I'm running some heavy-duty radiator flush in hopes that it might break up some of the stuff, just in case this is what's going on. Dunno if it will help but worth a shot.
Thanks for any help in advance.
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Re: MORE overheating advice needed - thanks for putting up with me (dbman96)
Oh by the way I know someone was suggesting I check out the temp sensor - I'm assuming it's reliable based on the fact that my coolant is boiling out into the overflow tank when the gauge is high and it doesn't do that when the gauge is low. The gauge seems very consistent; and its operation does not seem to vary based on any electrical changes. I checked all the engine / chassis grounds and all are solid. Also checked the sensor vs. helms manual and it checks out.
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Re: MORE overheating advice needed - thanks for putting up with me (dbman96)
take your radiator out and have it professionaly flushed out. i'll bet this will be the problem
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Re: MORE overheating advice needed - thanks for putting up with me (GGrahnVI)
I don't know if this would help.. I had a similar problem and I notice that my FAN isn't kicking in, plus when I put an aftermarket fan make sure that it is turning the right way(air going inside the engine)
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Re: MORE overheating advice needed - thanks for putting up with me (whagkangmakulet)
Check to make sure the temp gauge and sensor are working properly.
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Re: MORE overheating advice needed - thanks for putting up with me (HX_Guy)
Thanks for the suggestions... I love all this contradictory information. Seems like about an even 50% say head gasket and another 50% say radiator. Can anyone tell me a way to check the seal of the head gasket without pulling the head completely?
HX Guy... did you even read my second post?
HX Guy... did you even read my second post?
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Re: MORE overheating advice needed - thanks for putting up with me (dbman96)
Yea I read the post - why?
BTW...if the headgasket was bad...coolant would be in your oil. How does the oil look?
BTW...if the headgasket was bad...coolant would be in your oil. How does the oil look?
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Re: MORE overheating advice needed - thanks for putting up with me (dbman96)
I've notice there's no story on the fan... It sounds like it could be a fan problem since you say running the heater a full blast keeps it cool. Is it working? Have you checked the thermo switch for the fan?
If there isn't any oil in the coolant, you might want to check if you're burning any coolant. The plugs would have a light tan to off white build up on it.
If there isn't any oil in the coolant, you might want to check if you're burning any coolant. The plugs would have a light tan to off white build up on it.
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Re: MORE overheating advice needed - thanks for putting up with me (chooch)
I had a similar problem to yours. I hardwired the AC fan and kept it on all the time. Just a switch to turn it on and off. If that oil/coolant isn't milky then that gasket should be fine. Do you have a blockguard? I plan on replacing the radiator later on with koyo/fluidyne, but until then the fan works out just fine. Outside temp here in ABQ can reach 100F, and it still keeps it under half on the temp.
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Re: MORE overheating advice needed - thanks for putting up with me (chooch)
Yeah sorry I failed to mention the fans are stock but the cooling fan is set to run continuously when the car is on - that was one of the first things I did. Even when I don't have it switched on manually both fans can and do start on their own with the thermostat switch.
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Re: MORE overheating advice needed - thanks for putting up with me (chooch)
I did that on mine when I had overheating problems (or so I thought it was overheating)..I hard wired the cooling fan to be on all the time when the engine was running...maybe give that a try.
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Re: MORE overheating advice needed - thanks for putting up with me (dbman96)
Maybe just double check the fans are turning the right way... since you rewired them.
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Re: MORE overheating advice needed - thanks for putting up with me (chooch)
Also is there any water leaking out around your head? Have you had your radiator professionally flushed out?
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Re: MORE overheating advice needed - thanks for putting up with me (dbman96)
Get a compression and leak down test.
Since this began after your turbo install (correct?) it could be loose head bolts or even stretched headbolts. That will make your HG leak only when under boost.
Suprised you have done all this other work with out the first, cheapest step.
Since this began after your turbo install (correct?) it could be loose head bolts or even stretched headbolts. That will make your HG leak only when under boost.
Suprised you have done all this other work with out the first, cheapest step.
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