rudebwoy

iTrader: (1)

I've traded my Mishimoto 3 core X-line radiator and 13" Maradyne high performce fan and shroud, for a Speedfactory race radiator Spal fan and shroud. My concern is will the speedfactory live up to the cooling ability of the mishimoto, or will I run hot on street driving?

underrated

iTrader: (3)

If you look on SF site, it states that the race radiator is not meant for street use.

https://www.speedfactoryracing.net/s...-race-radiator

burnoutboy

iTrader: (22)

That's probably because it's all aluminum. It says it is more efficient than the one radiator. Cooling shouldn't be the problem with street use if there really is one... That's said, my Mishimoto OVER cools in the winter during highway cruising. So maybe it's TOO efficient and that's why it's not recommended.

rudebwoy

iTrader: (1)

I used to have over heating issue with the basic Mishimoto radiator and fan setup, so bad during dyno tuning I use a BMW radiator attached to the front of the bumper. Then I upgraded to the X-line and maradyne fan, and no matter what I do the temperature stays at 180deg. But due to change of chassis and setup I need a more narrow radiator and the guy I traded need a bigger. I will just run a oil cooler to help support cooling, just need a good location.

ps I did not notice the part where SF states not suitable for street use, I remember them claiming its just as good from the initial advertisement

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

It's fairly obvious it isn't a street car radiator, the small core size makes it fairly obvious.

The SpeedFactory *DRAG* radiator is really only designed to keep the motor from overheating during the burnout and staging. Beyond that the pass is usually fast/short enough that coolant temps won't reach the point of overheating between the launch point and shutdown point on the track.

I mean you could try and run it... It would require that any air space around the sides of the radiator be blocked off (think half core rad with no AC) and it would necessary to have extensive ducting made to force as much air through the radiator as possible. The ducting would have to be large at the bumper opening and taper down to the size of the core, above a certain speed the ducting would work to compress and speed up the air as it approaches the core. You would probably wind up having to hard wire the fan to run constantly whenever the key is the "run" position. Other mandatory things would be a very low temp thermostat, distilled water and water wetter (no ethylene glycol period).

I'm also going to go out on a limb and say an electric water pump is required for the best results regardless of radiator application. Craig Davies has an amazing line of high flow/high performance water pumps, most of which come with a digital brain and oled display as a single unit. It allows you to set fan on/off points and controls pump speed via PWM to not only help the pump last longer but also runs the pump at just the right speed to maintain a preset temperature value.

The thing is no one has really tried it on a street car before, more than likely due to the extensive description SFR gives so there isn't any way to know for sure unless you or someone tries it. I'm going to ***-u-me that SFR tested their radiator size and design under varying power levels, weather conditions, and numerous types of driving (street, drag, time attack, track days, etc)

KevinEF7

There was a thread in the drag racing forum on this radiator and a few guys say they run it on the street with no crazy ducting just fine

It will be fine

welfarepc

It will be fine, if you live in Yellowknife and drive in the winter.

rudebwoy

iTrader: (1)

Inam interested in an electric water pump, However I haven't looked into my options yet.

rudebwoy

iTrader: (1)

what are the advantages and disadvantages of running a electric water pump vs the OEM pump? how does it allow better cooling?

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Im gonna take a guess and say it takes stress off the motor and is constantly running super fast

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Eliminating the mechanical pump frees up power by reducing parasitic loss.
The stock mechanical water pump doesn't provide consistent cooling as flow is determined by the rpm of the engine, electric pumps don't have this problem.
Most electric pumps outflow stock mechanical pumps, also because they are designed to run higher rpm the electric pumps tend to have a much more efficient impeller design that doesn't suffer from cavitation like the OEM pump.

Modern electric pumps don't run wide open anymore, they use digital control units to modulate the pump. However not only does running a pump full tilt create added stress on the charging system but a properly sized electric water pump can move so much water that wide open it would prevent or severely delay the engine in reaching opwrating temp. Also running an electric pump at full capacity would significantly reduce it's service life, not a good thing for a street driven car to have a water pump suddenly fail.

Davies Craig produces what are currently without a doubt the best electric water pumps for automotive/competition applications. They use a digital PWM "brain" unit to control pump speed based on coolant temp as well as control radiator fans on/off temp.

rudebwoy

iTrader: (1)

the car does not see long distance street driving but its a street class race car, and the class requires a 30km cruising during the qualifying rounds, also I take a autobahn challenge every now and then.
I will just try to see how well the OEM works under these conditions, and decide from there.