GetawayInMoscow

I'm running a 9.0 CR B16 with a T61 at 10 psi, BKR7E plugs.

It misses pretty bad from like 6k to 9k. AF ratios are good. Do I need to gap the plugs less or do I need to go to 8's? Right now my gap is at .028", which seems like it would work.

sohc_turd

You can double check the ground strap to see where the color change is happening, but i'm pretty sure 7s should be good for your hp. I would try gapping it down. i gap mine to .019.

GetawayInMoscow

Thanks Meng...looks like we are in competition again, I ran a 14.1 @ 104 last night, lol.

spoonfedjdm

well atleast your car is still runnin i ran that 12.6 last nite but now piston 1 has low numbers so time 4 a rebuilt, o and this is mike with the flat black crx.

urbansi

Honestly the gap seems a little high for the power level that should be being made with that turbo. My car at 360whp had .24 gap...

But anyways i would look into the dizzy to see if its still capable of its duties, the car shouldnt be breaking up unless its got an ignition problem or fuel issue(which you claim it doesnt)

GL

sc4dr

Have you thrown a new set of plugs in yet? Everytime mine does that, I put in new plugs, and it clears out.

Turbo-charged

unless the plugs are just old and need to be replaced, its not the plugs. 7's at that gap should work fine unless another part of the ignition system is not up to par.

GetawayInMoscow

Plugs are brand new, have maybe 200 miles on them.

I agree that it shouldn't be breaking up at .028 gap.

IntegraTypeR

iTrader: (1)

so you just put them in and the problem started from them? or they were fine and after 200 miles this problem showed up?

GetawayInMoscow

Well I've been tuning the car in that 200 miles, this is a new set up. I haven't really pushed it until recently.

I built a basemap from scratch so it's taken me awhile to get everything dialed in.

To answer your question, it's been there since the beginning.

celeritasordie

i doubt you need to change the heat range. Gap them to .025 then go Check your ignitor, dizzy cap, and rotor to make sure its working as it should.

GetawayInMoscow

Well I gapped them down to .020 and it still does it a little bit, between like 7500 and 9000 now. So it helped, just not completely.

Does it even make sense to go even less than .020? Or is something else wrong?

Tony the Tiger

How's your air/fuel ratio? I know guys tune their engines at 12.0:1 and some tune at 11.0:1, all depends on the tuner. But the varying A/F's can be the difference between a clean running engine and a misfiring engine even with the same gap.

At 0.020", I'd probably check other parts of the ignition system and see if everything is good.

IntegraTypeR

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GetawayInMoscow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well I gapped them down to .020 and it still does it a little bit, between like 7500 and 9000 now. So it helped, just not completely.

Does it even make sense to go even less than .020? Or is something else wrong?</TD></TR></TABLE>

the reason why i asked cause am having the same issues like you! miss firing in boost with 8's R5671-8 (non resistor type).....i beleive your issue is similar to mine...whats the size of your exhaust? by the way i have a gt35r on my b16.....i heard the more the bigger the turbo (flow in terms of lbs/min) the more spark blow you will get at your spark plug so i advice to go little lower in gap and see how it goes again?

hence poeple with ignition systems can go bigger in gap BUT poeple with stock ignition need to run smaller gap!

does this make sense?

IntegraTypeR

iTrader: (1)

are you using stock dist or an aftermarket one? how is your coolant level?

GetawayInMoscow

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraTypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

the reason why i asked cause am having the same issues like you! miss firing in boost with 8's R5671-8 (non resistor type).....i beleive your issue is similar to mine...whats the size of your exhaust? by the way i have a gt35r on my b16.....i heard the more the bigger the turbo (flow in terms of lbs/min) the more spark blow you will get at your spark plug so i advice to go little lower in gap and see how it goes again?

hence poeple with ignition systems can go bigger in gap BUT poeple with stock ignition need to run smaller gap!

does this make sense?</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's interesting you say that, I'm running a T61 HO (GT35R w/o water cooling).

My DP and exhaust is 3". 0.020" gap is pretty damn small, any smaller and it's like the electrode will be making contact with the tip. Doesn't seem logical for burning anything, now does it?

My dist is stock OEM Honda, my coolant level is fine, the head is not lifting.

Tony my AFR's are in the 11's, I'm aiming for 11.5:1 but they arent perfect, either way I have them within the 11's.

What order should I check other parts of my ignition system?

b20vtechb

stock bore? have you been on the dyno to tune the timing yet? and you might still be too rich in the upper rpms try getting closer to 12:1 and it will should clear out

alpha

Take your distributor apart. Take a look at the condition of your rotor, coil and cap. At .020 and mid to high 11's a:f you shouldn't be missing

SPOON_BeIgHtEeNsEe

check ur spark plug wires also... i had the same problem that night too... ran a 14.4 @107

Turbo-charged

its not the plugs or the plug gaps unless there is another part of the ignition system that is weak.

the car should have no problem pulling though an afr in the 11's.


i run my cars afr's in the mid/high 10's. i also run a .013 gap, heat range 10 plugs, 40-42lbs of boost.

IntegraTypeR

iTrader: (1)

am not saying to go too low either, but give it another try by going .018 as a minimum and try leaning the mix a bit in the boost area.....whats the timing and IAT at when this happens? running too rich wont always mean no detonation or even no pre-ignition!

are you following 1* per psi with it running a bit rich?

GetawayInMoscow

0.75* / psi from 0 -7, than 7-10 is 1* per psi.

It's not too rich, AFRs are as close to 11.5:1 as I can get them, I have Neptune and datalog everything.

IntegraTypeR

iTrader: (1)

if you are doing a street tune i recommend leaving the mix rich in the 11's and retard more timing...lets say 0.8-1 degree per psi

if that dist is new give these things a try before taking it apart!

check ignition ground
retard more timing in the boost area
recheck dist is still in sync

questions for you:
1-whats your timing at the breakage?
2-whats your IAT when this happens?

IntegraTypeR

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GetawayInMoscow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">0.75* / psi from 0 -7, than 7-10 is 1* per psi.

It's not too rich, AFRs are as close to 11.5:1 as I can get them, I have Neptune and datalog everything.</TD></TR></TABLE>

do a linear retard! are you doing this on the dyno? what about your battery voltage when you are on WOT? does it read above 12v?

GetawayInMoscow

I will go pull up a datalog now.

I've never had a problem with a non-linear retard in the past though.

I'm trying to street tune this before I go sign up for dyno time.