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Correct. The ultimate goal was 500, yes, but from the get go I had planned on doing a hi/low switch. So I need to be able to be consistent at lower pressure.
Correct. The ultimate goal was 500, yes, but from the get go I had planned on doing a hi/low switch. So I need to be able to be consistent at lower pressure.
How low can ya go?! (Now get that little song out of your head!) Had to do it. Lol! That aside...
Where do you want the low end? If it's going to behave much better in the higher psi range, you just may need to get a larger gate so you can run it <10
Gosh darn it!!!! Take it back! I'd like to be in the low 300's for my low setting.
Anyways, I drove Autobahn full track with GPStracktime on Monday and the car took it like a champ. A few things to iron out but overall a great shakedown for a brand new setup!!
I set mine with the 12-13 psi spring combo, still very powerful but streetable still. That puts me 450 range h with my setup. Your just just a little higher compression but you don’t have the cams that I do, I’m guessing you would need a base of around 8 psi for 325-350
I set mine with the 12-13 psi spring combo, still very powerful but streetable still. That puts me 450 range h with my setup. Your just just a little higher compression but you don’t have the cams that I do, I’m guessing you would need a base of around 8 psi for 325-350
I was assuming the same, I figured the 8 psi spring was the best to go with. I'm also 98% sure that I'm going to with an MVR. I already have the stainless elbow I need to weld onto the manifold. AND I actually just got a tig welder for the house, so I suppose that's even more reason to change it out haha
I'd never use an 8psi spring for 22-25psi. I'm sorry. I think the solenoid is being stressed because of too small a spring in your current gate. Not the size of the gate itself. you're just going to vent more excess exhaust pulse gas, and may eliminate the creep, but recovery response suffers. Hopefully you'll get your better results this way, however.
Good thing to always remember..... baseline high boost can usually use a small wastegate...... baseline low boost will more than likely require a 44mm wastegate unless the turbo is a smaller unit. The turbos required to meet a 500hp goal can put cars right in that middle ground that can make things tricky, to big of a turbo becomes laggy and not as friendly on the street and a smaller turbo becomes non efficient when trying to hit peak power goals and creates excessive heat for the intake air which could cause issues. A good 44mm wastegate will usually resolve most issues and seem to work well. I can install a 3 psi spring and mine will hold 3 psi perfect on a 66/62
I'd never use an 8psi spring for 22-25psi. I'm sorry. I think the solenoid is being stressed because of too small a spring in your current gate. Not the size of the gate itself. you're just going to vent more excess exhaust pulse gas, and may eliminate the creep, but recovery response suffers. Hopefully you'll get your better results this way, however.
What you're failing to comprehend here is that the solenoid was NEVER turned on at ANY point.
Understood. Let me ask a super noob question, if I were to install say a 13 psi spring, could the boost solenoid duty cycle be set to control it to 8 psi only? I don't think the backwards action is possible, just curious.
Understood. Let me ask a super noob question, if I were to install say a 13 psi spring, could the boost solenoid duty cycle be set to control it to 8 psi only? I don't think the backwards action is possible, just curious.
Most people use a 10-12 psi spring, which usually gives a control up to 20-24psi of boost. Something you could do is use a 10-12psi spring and then have 2 tunes, one tune can be your full send and the other with pulled timing on the top end which should back things down a little for some control
Most people use a 10-12 psi spring, which usually gives a control up to 20-24psi of boost. Something you could do is use a 10-12psi spring and then have 2 tunes, one tune can be your full send and the other with pulled timing on the top end which should back things down a little for some control
^^^ This..
As a general rule of thumb here, you can't go lower than spring pressure and can go up to twice the pressure with boost control. Example: 10 psi spring can't run lower than 10 and can go up to 20. When you use 2 or more springs, you get all of them combined.. 8 psi and 10 psi- 18psi total. 8, 4, 10 - 22psi, etc.. The combined springs act as 1.. Make sense?
I fully understand the twice the pressure deal/spring combos with the solenoid. As stated before, I didn't think it was possible to go "backward" I just wanted to be sure! I think this weekend I will try my 10psi spring and see where that takes me. I would just like to know that I can actually control it, not just tame it, if that makes sense!
Here's how she's currently sitting. Tial MVR is on the way and I'm doing away with my water to oil cooler, it didn't work as well as I had hoped. I'm going to be switching to a traditional thermostatic 180 degree sandwich plate setup. Only 2.5 weeks until Honda Meet at Gingerman!
Soooo this happened. Not sure why but, I only have about 500 miles on this thing.
Holy **** dude!!! Any shaft play? I tried zooming in to see if it looked like it met the comp housing and hard to tell other than the wear spots on the blades.. It looks as if they did meet the housing.. Doesn't look like debris but, you run a filter?
Holy **** dude!!! Any shaft play? I tried zooming in to see if it looked like it met the comp housing and hard to tell other than the wear spots on the blades.. It looks as if they did meet the housing.. Doesn't look like debris but, you run a filter?
Probably 1/4" of shaft play. It did come in contact with the housing unfortunately. I have always run a filter on this, even on the dyno. No fore warning signs or anything strange. Seems like I just got a lemon.
Dude that's a huge bummer. No chunks of the filter missing from the inside? It looks like you were running a K&N directly on the turbo - is that right?
Correct, it was a K&N. The filter was absolutely intact, that was my first guess too! The only thing I changed was oil weight. I switched from 10w40 to 20w50.
Probably 1/4" of shaft play. It did come in contact with the housing unfortunately. I have always run a filter on this, even on the dyno. No fore warning signs or anything strange. Seems like I just got a lemon.
I wonder if the switch to heavier weight oil caused a starvation and the JB gave out. 1/4" of shaft play is too much. That's noted by housing contact. Shodan would have better knowledge on what may have happened.
Correct, it was a K&N. The filter was absolutely intact, that was my first guess too! The only thing I changed was oil weight. I switched from 10w40 to 20w50.
You can't determine if an oil weight change is needed by this. In fact, you could make it worse for the bearings of the engine looking at it that way.
Check the FAQ list for the diagnostic chart that troubleshoot turbos
damn that suck man you just got back to trying to resolve your problems shitting timing.mite of been the blow off valve not releasing enough air when let off throttle and caused compressor surge ( compressor wheel spinning backward) takes its toll on the bearings and wheel, hopefully you get some type of warranty help. if not I may have a charger you maybe interested.
06-19-2019, 07:33 AM
Re: Maxwellmercer-Quest for 500whp inside
