Chris F

OK, I've got a medium/short list of manifolds I'm considering for my Turbo ITR. I just cracked my Greddy LOG MANIFOLD that had been modified to take a wastegate.

My EGT's are kinda sick (1850F ) and I might be trying to tune that out later.

In the meantime, I need something that will survive being ceramic coated and header-wrapped, and held under WOT for 30 minutes at a time.

So, obviously reliability #1, quick spool time #2. Money #3. This is going to have a GT2871R turbo mounted to it. A/C is coming OUT. C&R full size Radiator is staying in.

I'm thinking:
- Full race. "Good things come to those that wait" but I GOTTA get my car running soon. 3-4 weeks until it can be shipped, I guess, unless it's in-stock somewhere with a 38mm Tial wastegate flange and T3 or Nissan T25 or whatever flange.
- Lovefab mini-me. Cheaper. Not sure about availability.
- Others? I heard the SS Autochrome/OBX ones were AWESOME. lol.

Lemme know! Thanks guys!

0project dc2

iTrader: (1)

in terms or reliability . i think my money might go on a inline pro stainless steel cast mani.

Chris F

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by project dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">in terms or reliability . i think my money might go on a inline pro stainless steel cast mani. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, but I haven't heard of anyone cracking a Full Race... or most others I guess. I'm sorta out-of-the-loop. I don't know much about the PeakBoost equal length ones either..

So you're saying Cast, because they almost never crack?

0project dc2

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jetydosa &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yeah, but I haven't heard of anyone cracking a Full Race... or most others I guess. I'm sorta out-of-the-loop. I don't know much about the PeakBoost equal length ones either..

So you're saying Cast, because they almost never crack?</TD></TR></TABLE>


well im sure someones cracked a full race before. it just hasnt been talked about.

TurboJesse

the PeakBoost manifold is 321 ss, equal length, 4 to 1, with a lifetime warranty..
any manifold can crack, but in three years we've only had 3 crack. these came back in the first year and the problem was fixed. we see this same problem with other manifolds on this site to this day....

also in stock ready to ship

Chris F

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PhoenixTurboJesse &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lifetime warranty</TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL just like my "lifetime warranty" brakes? (NO, I don't take Autozone up on their warranty offer).


Sounds like a good plan.... PM'ed about downpipe and catback.

BoostR41

Chris from what I know the greddy mani uses a nissan T25 flange. HKS mani might work I can't remember what flange it is but I think it is the nissan T25flange

Tinker219

We can get a Mini out to you in around two weeks, equal length or non-equal(cheaper). Havent had one of these crack yet, with well over 200 of them out there so far...

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Chris road races VERY hard. I had a chance to see him at MAM last week, in which the equal length manifold will cause a little lag for him considering he needs as much INSTANT response as possible, not just top end flow. The MINI ME (if he chooses this route) will need to be T28 flanged for the GT2871 he's going to pick up. (BTW Chris, don't bother trying to convert it to external wastegate on that particular application, for the flapper on that is already at about 34-35mm, so you should be fine for courses like the BEAVER or GINGERMAN).

You may have to get the HKS manifold and ceramic coat it for HPDE events. PM me, I can help you out rather quickly. I plan on going to Gingerman for July 4....

Chris F

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BoostR41 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Chris from what I know the greddy mani uses a nissan T25 flange. HKS mani might work I can't remember what flange it is but I think it is the nissan T25flange</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was going to get a T3 housing for my turdblow (gt2871r) to make life easier.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheShodan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">(BTW Chris, don't bother trying to convert it to external wastegate on that particular application, for the flapper on that is already at about 34-35mm, so you should be fine for courses like the BEAVER or GINGERMAN). </TD></TR></TABLE>

Already converted to external... Tial 38mm.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheShodan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You may have to get the HKS manifold and ceramic coat it for HPDE events. PM me, I can help you out rather quickly. I plan on going to Gingerman for July 4....</TD></TR></TABLE>

I am definitely planning on ceramic coat and probably wrapping it.

I'm still looking for a full-race, lovefab, one-fab, or peakboost. They all look pretty sharp.

Chris F

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tinker219 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">We can get a Mini out to you in around two weeks, equal length or non-equal(cheaper). Havent had one of these crack yet, with well over 200 of them out there so far...</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't think I've seen a equal-length mini-me. Hmm!

Chris F

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PhoenixTurboJesse &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the PeakBoost manifold is 321 ss, equal length, 4 to 1, with a lifetime warranty..
any manifold can crack, but in three years we've only had 3 crack. these came back in the first year and the problem was fixed. we see this same problem with other manifolds on this site to this day....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Does this mani clear a big radiator on a B18C5 in a DC2?

Doesn't look like it would...




-Chris

rmcdaniels

I'd vote for the mini-me if you are going with a tubular manifold, but I don't know that you want it for road course use. The main benefit I see out of a merge collector mani is improved top-end efficiency, which is nice for drag racing and dyno pulls, but I'd go with the edge in responsiveness of a smaller manifold for road course or autox. Also, what's your lead time on getting it ceramic coated? I know Performance Coatings takes about a week to coat a manifold.

I think I'd go with a Inline Pro cast stainless manifold if I was going to set it up for road course. Camp1320 had them in stock last time I checked, and I know a guy locally that has one sitting on the shelf at his shop that is already Performance Coatings (http://www.performancecoatings.com/headercoatings.html) ceramic coated.

Sinitron

I still use a cast stainless inline pro manifold. Works great for me.

Car is fully aem ems tuned, and the motor can spin to 10,000rpm. I've never
had any problems with it, driving on the street, or on the track.

Only problem I ever had with my old ITR on course was my alternator bolts kept falling off the car.

Chris F

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rmcdaniels &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd vote for the mini-me if you are going with a tubular manifold, but I don't know that you want it for road course use. The main benefit I see out of a merge collector mani is improved top-end efficiency, which is nice for drag racing and dyno pulls, but I'd go with the edge in responsiveness of a smaller manifold for road course or autox. Also, what's your lead time on getting it ceramic coated? I know Performance Coatings takes about a week to coat a manifold. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for the post.

Is there a particular manifold that would help spool at earlier RPM? Would an equal length help that or not really? What about a larger downpipe, would that help spool time much? How about a T3 exhaust housing, will that change much?

I have the GT2871R with the .82 A/R, on a GReddy mani with the GReddy downpipe, and I'm really dissapointed at how high RPM it takes to spool. I think I should have done the .63 instead. I really could use another 500-1000 RPM on the low end.

Current Dyno: http://www.we-todd-did-racing....D.jpg

I'll check out the inline pro. Any difference between the cast iron and stainless ones besides looks? (Edit, Revhard non-AC one looks pretty nice too)


Modified by Chris F at 3:33 PM 6/4/2005

Dr Pooface

Kinetic Motorsports sells a modified HKS B series cast log style mani that's held up awesome for me. Flows great and takes a beating, best of all....cheap!

http://www.kineticmotorsport.c....html



Here's a shot of their matching cast 3" dp (for the record):



Modified by Dr Pooface at 2:20 PM 6/4/2005


Modified by Dr Pooface at 2:20 PM 6/4/2005

jayman322

nice! i've not seen that one yet, good looking stuff

jayman322

damn wrong flange

Chris F

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dr Pooface &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Kinetic Motorsports sells a modified HKS B series cast log style mani that's held up awesome for me. Flows great and takes a beating, best of all....cheap!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You sure that's an HKS manifold originally? It actually looks a lot like my GReddy...

-Chris

0project dc2

iTrader: (1)

i;d buy a t3 housing and just go inlinrpro .. consider this. its cast alwyas on hand and lifetime warranty i believe.


i have the gt2871RS on my car with a .62 A/R housing on a tubular manifold


tubulars give better midrange as ell as top end.

log/cast styles will do good down low .

if you need a downpipe for any of thse manifolds just lemme know.


the blox manifold may be a good choice for you too. you can fit a 3" with AC ( same with inlinepro)

Dr Pooface

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris F &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You sure that's an HKS manifold originally? It actually looks a lot like my GReddy...

-Chris</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not sure, but that is what they (kinetic) told me.

B18CXr

Chris F.

IM sent

Boostage

Cast stainless steel cannot crack.

"Manifold SI

These premium stainless steel manifolds will withstand heating to 1800 F followed by a total submersion in water with no cracking or flaking"


http://www.erlperformance.com/...id=17

Chris F

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boostage &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Cast stainless steel cannot crack.

"Manifold SI

These premium stainless steel manifolds will withstand heating to 1800 F followed by a total submersion in water with no cracking or flaking"


http://www.erlperformance.com/...id=17
</TD></TR></TABLE>

"Cannot crack" famous last words

rmcdaniels

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris F &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Thanks for the post.

Is there a particular manifold that would help spool at earlier RPM? Would an equal length help that or not really? What about a larger downpipe, would that help spool time much? How about a T3 exhaust housing, will that change much?

I have the GT2871R with the .82 A/R, on a GReddy mani with the GReddy downpipe, and I'm really dissapointed at how high RPM it takes to spool. I think I should have done the .63 instead. I really could use another 500-1000 RPM on the low end.

Current Dyno: http://www.we-todd-did-racing....D.jpg

I'll check out the inline pro. Any difference between the cast iron and stainless ones besides looks? (Edit, Revhard non-AC one looks pretty nice too)


Modified by Chris F at 3:33 PM 6/4/2005</TD></TR></TABLE>

All the dynos I've seen show a log making more torque up until around 5000 RPM, then the merge collector manifold passes it up. I went from a cast manifold to a tubular, put a smaller (went from a GT3071R to a GT28RS) turbo on it, and made more power earlier plus more up top. Torque delivery was freakishly non-linear though, and it was very hard to control when boost hit. Personally if I was building a turbo setup for road course, I'd go with a small turbo on a log or cast manifold, relatively high compression, and relatively low boost.

I've heard the GT2871R is not a real good turbine/compressor matchup, actually a guy at ATP told me that. I switched my GT3071R from the .82 to the .63 and it spools a bit quicker and still makes &gt;400WHP, but I run a low compression/high boost setup.

Stainless holds heat better than cast iron. Other than that I don't know of any practical differences.