Samuels

i thought the VC was red but just saw the pic... How much for the catchcan shipped i was about to order the ebay catchcan??

On a sidenote i bought a inline pro fuel rail tonight when i got my flywheel bolts that thing looks sick..Has anyone ever compared them to like the AEM this 1 looks much bigger..

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

nope silver mang, i have a DATUM1 fuel rail and its much bigger then an aem. the inside of an aem is about the size of -8an fuel lines and mine is equivalent to -10an fuel lines and half the pirce YEAH BABY

InfamousDC2FI

Turbo-LS - on your catch can set up do you have an obd1 or obd2 pcv system. I got an obd2 pcv valve that comes out of the valve cover....This pcv catch can thing is so simple yet so confusing... how would you run your catch can setup? Thanks

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

run bot the PCV and the breather to the catch can. if your in cali then i think you need to plumb it back into the intake but if your not then just put a breather filter on the catch can and thats it. let it breath into the atmosphere

JDMs1eeper

retuned again tonight

15psi + installed the new AEBS intake manifold.


Tried 25psi on accident. On a 4th gear pull it SMOKED the tires... lol

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

What she make????? NUMBERS NUMBERS

SOHC_MShue

i'm guessing 400whp or more because she made 365whp on 12-13psi with the stock obd0 manifold. So far its just street tuned.

JDMs1eeper

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo-LS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What she make????? NUMBERS NUMBERS</TD></TR></TABLE>

We are taken it to the dyno real soon. Gonna fine tune teh street settings. Then dump in some Race Gas and tune for some big boost

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

Sweet dude post ur dyno sheet when shes done. cant wait to see ! good luck man

DENCIO

JDMs1eeper pm sent!!

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

Hey guys im working with my local machine shop as you know about cam girdles for LS engines also will work with b20 crv heads. Im contemplating development of a 5 main girdle that will be setup like on a big block chevy of ford engine. it will bolt to all five main caps and then all the way around the block like where the oil pan would go as to not only tie in all the mains together but to tie the mains into the block for superior strength.

I know z10 does a similar setup like this but its 1500 dollars and then you are required to use a dry sump oiling system etc. and i think thats way to much for most people. Let me know what you guys think if would be something your interested in. It will be cost effective as much as possible. i love getting away cheap and this might be the way to do it. Let me know your imput and interests.


Modified by Turbo-LS at 11:17 AM 1/10/2006

Outkast95LS

iTrader: (1)

Im having problems with the T fitting. I cant seem to get this part screwed all the way in.

Here's what it looks like right now..

JDMs1eeper

put some teflon tape on it w/ a sealor. and tighten it down tight. doesnt "have" to be all the way in. Those fittings did a tad snug when tighting them and brass is brittle so be easy with it.

Outkast95LS

iTrader: (1)

hmm.. sojust some teflon tape and some sealer and it should be good to go? Thanks!

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

get your engine warm and test the pressure of that line to your turbo, it should be 5 psi when idle and max 25 psi with the rpms up. Some turbos will handle a little more pressure then 25 but thats a general guide to keep from blowing out the seals in the turbo. good luck

JDMs1eeper

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo-LS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get your engine warm and test the pressure of that line to your turbo, it should be 5 psi when idle and max 25 psi with the rpms up. Some turbos will handle a little more pressure then 25 but thats a general guide to keep from blowing out the seals in the turbo. good luck </TD></TR></TABLE>

not really. the turbo needs "more" oil pressure than boost pressure to keep the shaft in balance. If its trying to blow yoru turbo seal its from running too small of a re turn, return is kinked, return has too many bends or something else that is keeping oil from draining easily.

example. If i were to be boosting 28psi of boost at 7500-8000 rpms. if my Oil pressure was only 25psi, the shaft will become unstable, wobble and slam the fins into the housing causeing turbo failure and/or engine damage if debreai finds it self into the motor.

people always say you shoudl run a restrictor, smaller feed lines and all this yacky smacky but I've honestly ran a 3/8th's copper hard line for my feed line for years and on many setups with out any problems. For a return I use a 1/2inch nipple w/ 1/2 inch ID hose to a 1/2 nipple on the pan.

if your wondering a 3/8ths would be around a 8-9AN line I believe.


But back to the fittings... If the fitting is a harder or softer matieral than what your putting it into, it'll make its own seal anyways. Adding Teflon tape + a sealor will act as extra insurance for leaks incase the threads are messed up any and are gapped.

Outkast95LS

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMs1eeper &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not really. the turbo needs "more" oil pressure than boost pressure to keep the shaft in balance. If its trying to blow yoru turbo seal its from running too small of a re turn, return is kinked, return has too many bends or something else that is keeping oil from draining easily.

example. If i were to be boosting 28psi of boost at 7500-8000 rpms. if my Oil pressure was only 25psi, the shaft will become unstable, wobble and slam the fins into the housing causeing turbo failure and/or engine damage if debreai finds it self into the motor.

people always say you shoudl run a restrictor, smaller feed lines and all this yacky smacky but I've honestly ran a 3/8th's copper hard line for my feed line for years and on many setups with out any problems. For a return I use a 1/2inch nipple w/ 1/2 inch ID hose to a 1/2 nipple on the pan.

if your wondering a 3/8ths would be around a 8-9AN line I believe.


But back to the fittings... If the fitting is a harder or softer matieral than what your putting it into, it'll make its own seal anyways. Adding Teflon tape + a sealor will act as extra insurance for leaks incase the threads are messed up any and are gapped. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks Your words of wisdom definitely makes me more confident in my current oil feed/return set up.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

Well im just repeating what i have learned from professionals. all things work differently i would agre on that. But when it comes to longevity and the know how on a turbo i go with what the big guys say. personally i have a -4 line and its working just fine but i was told different. Doesnt mean ill do what i was told though LOL

SiAutoX

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sprayteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Nice numbers, any time yet? Should be really fast in an EF...
Can you post the dyno sheet, I would like to see one with 402T cams </TD></TR></TABLE>


Im not tryin not to answer any questions.....im searchin through my Lap Top tryin to find my dyno numbers....will post up imediately after i locate

0project dc2

iTrader: (1)

i miss my non vtec setups

JDMs1eeper

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo-LS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well im just repeating what i have learned from professionals. all things work differently i would agre on that. But when it comes to longevity and the know how on a turbo i go with what the big guys say. personally i have a -4 line and its working just fine but i was told different. Doesnt mean ill do what i was told though LOL </TD></TR></TABLE>

thats cool. just sayin

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by project dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i miss my non vtec setups </TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah same here. I'll prolly have another one in a DD hopefully one day.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SnoFlake &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">heres a lil something ...if intertested..pm me...
made 282whp stock ls head 10psi with 4 bent valvessssss

62-1 turbonetics.....stage 5 comp wheel....
.63a/r.....blah blah blah......
$750 obo.....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Mine!! Muahahahha

crex23

What headgasket are you high hp guys (like above 350) using? OEM or aftermarket like Cometic?

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Turbo-LS.. pmd joo

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

Replyd

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crex23 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What headgasket are you high hp guys (like above 350) using? OEM or aftermarket like Cometic?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I am currently running a reg cometic gasket but im pulling my motor apart next weekend and installing a turbo cometic headgasket 84mm. I first started out with a Mr. Gasket but when the sleeves dropped i upgraded to cometic and im going to be in the 600whp 30 psi range so i wanted to upgrade further with a turbo cometic. i believe its only a few bucks more for the turbo cometics and worth the extra money.

You can also have your block oringed if you really plan on cranking up the boost. I prefur to not oring because id rather the headgasket blow then puke out the bottom end. leave a 100 dollar part to fail if you push it to hard instead of your block blowing or throwing a rod etc.. hope that helps you.