SoloSol

For me to realize a perfect (or near) r.s ratio on this combo, What is the needed rod length,bore,stroke,ect? btw this will be a FULLY built motor with sleeves,pistons,rods. Thanks
-zach

SoloSol

I forgot to tell you it will be a turbo motor

DLB1994

what head are u using and u can use the b18 crank and still turn it in a 2.0
i think the bore will be 85 mm ill go with 10:1.1 compression, crower b18 rods,je
85 mm pistons and golden eagle sleeve's

DLB1994

u can give me a call ill tell u what u need to run 10's

88CRXHybrid

you can run 10's with a large snail and the LS's r/s(1.539) but it wont last near as long as an engine with a better r/s even if it means sacrificing cc's. I propose that you use a 81.4mm B17A crank with 137mm LS/B20 rods at a 84.5mm bore(1.68r/s & 1826cc's). The sleeves will need to be resleeved by golden eagle. 85mm bore is the absolute max you can go but you will have no room for error when tuning. With 84.5mm bore you will have enough usable meat left to bore it out again if you melt the sleeve. As for the head get a 1gen B16A and get it ported by ENDYN or portflow. If you have a big enough wallet then go with ENDYN and their coated oversized race valves and eibach valve springs.

88CRXHybrid

oh and for pistons use ENDYN roller wave FI pistons ~9.0:1 static compression ratio.

SoloSol

88CRXHybrid- before I go and spent the money, How can I know that that will work?. In theory It look solid enough. I just need some confirmation that that combiuntaton will work for me.

DLB1994

u will be better off just doing what i said and if u don't have a head i know a guy with the whole b17a engine i can get for about 450 and u can use the head and what ever other parts u need the only thing is the head needs is valve seats but that's easy to fix after u get the head off

88CRXHybrid

It has been done a few times before. It is basically a sleeved CR/VTEC. The only thing different between the B18B and B20Z block is the B20 has better sleeves at a larger bore. Since you are going to be replacing them anyway then they are the two blocks will be the same except the block stamp. DONT try to use the GSR rods. the rod journals are to small and you will have no oil pressor and a blown motor. The LS rods and the B17A rod journals are the same. Everything will work. Make sure you get the head deshrouded(enlarged to 84.5mm bore).

The LS/VTEC with LS crank will actually give you more hp because of its larger displacement but it wont last as long because of its low r/s. So if you have a race ONLY car that you are building and dont mind rebuilding the engine every so often then go with that.

xjohnx

Ehhh, if you're gonna go all out, i'd go the extra mile and get a b20 bottom end, drop in the b17a crank, it'd slightly drop your displacement down to about 1.9 liters, but a near perfect rod/stroke ratio.

SoloSol

what would be the r/s of a 84.5mm bore w/b17 crank? At this time I only need a b16 head and I think we have all the other bases covered

88CRXHybrid

the stock B20 sleeves will not be able to harness the power of a high hp application. TOO has even cracked one in a high hp NA application.

88CRXHybrid

the boar will not change the r/s( rod to stroke ratio). If you are going to use the LS rods(137mm) and the B17A crank (81.4mm stroke) then you divide 137/81.4=1.683. What is your application? Street/strip or race only?

SoloSol

Full race only. 116 octane fuel Sleeved with Golden Eagle.

88CRXHybrid

for full race you might want to look into the LS crank. It will give you ~ 11%(.2L/200cc's)increase in displacement and about the same percentage increase in HP per PSI of boost you run. Like I said earlier it will not last as long if you drive it alot but if you are just racing it then you shouldnt have to be rebuilt to often.

I am in the process of building the block I described above with the B17A crank since I will be driving mine every day.


[Modified by 88CRXHybrid, 10:21 PM 1/7/2002]

sgT

For race only you should throw all that rod:stroke ratio mumbo jumbo to the wind.

newspeedR

for all of you running lsvtec with hipower, would you use a -6an line over the -4an.. any thoughts...

sgT

for the vtec line use -4
the oil pressure port is about the size of a --4 anyway.

newspeedR

reason why i ask is that if you look at fred ellis website, he sells a -6an vtec line kit...

in his email to me regarding why he did that....

"The reason I went with the larger size was to make sure there was plenty volume
of oil being supplied to the head for VTEC activation. The factory oil supply
hole in the bottom of the VTEC head is the same diameter as my line kit so I
wanted to keep it the same size.
So far there have been no problems with attaching the larger size line to either
the block or head. It was test fitted on every possible combo head / intake I
could come up with."

so...

sgT

if thats the case then you should increase the size of the hole in the block from
1/8" to 1/4 or 3/8

newspeedR

ok, so what if you run 3/8 hole off the block... any pros/cons for having more oil flow to the head... is it worth it..

sgT

I wonder if it would take away any oil flow to the rest of the oiling system.