Spec R

Hey guys, sorry about the repeat post, but searching through all the threads without "LS" takes way too long. Believe me, I've tried.

1. Lets say a bone stock LS with a Greddy 18G, cast elbow, and 2" downpipe, 2.25" exhaust makes 200whp and 200wtq at 7 psi. If the 2" downpipe is upgraded to 2.5", whats a ballpark figure of the HP gained, if nothing else changes?

2. On the same setup as above, what numbers would be gained if I upgraded to a Skunk or Blox intake manifold?

Thanks again! sorry if its a repeat post...

Integra21

well first you wont make 200wtq and prob not even 200whp with an LS....

check sig for my numbers with your set up as described (except i have vtec ) lol

when/if you can search. look for "pushing the 18g" - it goes through everyones set ups with the greddy kit. seems 280ish is nearing the limits of the turbo. im making about 250ish now and its losing top end...stock gsr mani...

Spec R

i made 188whp and 187 wtq at 6.5psi or so with my setup, i dont think the extra 12-13 extra whp/tq are too far off ...

i've done the math, at the current state of tune, i'm making something like 9 whp per PSI of boost...an extra 2-3 psi should get me over 200whp...

TacomanSI

i would guess 10hp or so. 11ps i made 274/244 on a b16. I would say junk the greddy 18g and get a better mani/turbo/downpipe if you looking for better hp/tq gains.

hondaeg8

off topic, but:

i'm looking to buy a greddy b series kit if any of ya'll would sell

Spec R

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TacomanSI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would guess 10hp or so. 11ps i made 274/244 on a b16. I would say junk the greddy 18g and get a better mani/turbo/downpipe if you looking for better hp/tq gains.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i figured thats an option, but i'm really happy with how the car feels right now anyway.

urbansi

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Integra21 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well first you wont make 200wtq and prob not even 200whp with an LS....

check sig for my numbers with your set up as described (except i have vtec ) lol

when/if you can search. look for "pushing the 18g" - it goes through everyones set ups with the greddy kit. seems 280ish is nearing the limits of the turbo. im making about 250ish now and its losing top end...stock gsr mani...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hey thats my thread, i created that thread a while back when i decided to see how far i could push the 18g on a built motor.

Well things have changed, i ran into money issues on the block but i still plan on doing the build.

Major thing about the 18G kit is the downpipe, the cast elbow tends to spike with an after market section of downpipe, the main thing to look for when the turbo starts spiking is a boost leak, all of the bolts on the elbow are not ver easy to tighten, you need to cut a 12mm rench and get real pissed off before tightening them, and also port the wastegate.

I know i am geting a little off topic here but this is what i have came across while working on this kit over and over again.

To take care of the elbow i bough a t-25/t-28 v-band discharge from ATP turbo, bought some flex sections and cut and welded the manifold.

My next step is finishing the shortblock and everything else and shoting for 300whp, then selling everything and buying a GT30R.

So now i am way off topic.

But the 18g is great for street driven cars, track days etc..

but i wouldnt go out of my way to improve something thats limiting in the first place.

urbansi

Oh and Taco man i have another v-baned discharge taht i would sell if you are looking for one, they sell for $95 online, we could work something out.

Not trying to thread jack.


This is the thread on pushing the 18G for the creator of this topic.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1382594

Spec R

hmmm i looked into that piece on atpturbo?

so that http://www.atpturbo.com/Mercha...=GTBB
piece will bolt up to our 18G's?

hmmmmm

urbansi

Yeah it bolts right up after you remove the A/C and cut the condenser bracket a hair. Did my whole dp with v-band adapter in 3 hours.

Spec R

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by urbansi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah it bolts right up after you remove the A/C and cut the condenser bracket a hair. Did my whole dp with v-band adapter in 3 hours.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you mean the compressor bracket?

any pics of the set up? how drastic was the improvement in power?

urbansi

I dont have any pics, people from local forms of mine no i post on here so i dont put my **** online anymore. As for the gains it spools way faster, i would say over 600rpms faster.

As far as power i would say its well worth the $300 it cost me to do the entire downpipe.