98hatchdan

ok heres a few questions. i have a 1998 hatcity hatch. i want to swap an ls motor and run a turbo kit with a standalone, probably hondata, from the start. i want reliability as cheaply as i can posses it, also i want speed as cheaply as i can get it. so heres the question: are there any engine specific differences in the 94-00 blocks? second question, what does anyone recomend that i do with the path that i have chosen. im new to turbos so dont laugh. much appreciation

Foozball26

only differences are the OBD-1 or 2

and I recommend going with the AEM EMS from the start, first you wont have to convert to OBD-1 if you buy an OBD2 motor and second its much more badass than hondata.

and if you have the money mind as well sleeve and build the motor, save some time and also money in the future as you wont have to pull the motor again to sleeve and put in forged internals.


[Modified by foozball-26, 10:43 PM 2/3/2003]

BudaKai

I suggest you learn more first before you make an uninformed decision. If you don't know anthing aout turbo's you're not going to blow something up.

boosted ls hatch

can some one help me i have a 96 ls swap in a 96 hatch and i just put on my drag 3 turbo kit and cant figure out y im leaning out everytime i get on it it leans out but and i have a walbro fuel pump in tank 255 lph high volume and it still leans out if u can help me i would truly appreciate it

Tinker219

timing, injectors too small(not sure if the drag3 comes with bigger injectors or not)....

Jdm_Rice_Monster

First of all hold on, cheap fast and reliable...........Ok those dont go together. If you cut any corners chances are they will come back to haunt you. I am learning the hard way, make sure any weak link you have you fix before you start boosting.

DIRep972

iTrader: (1)

\

damnit. i told u on that other thread where u asked this same question too.

get an inline fuel pump in there! u do have the fmu hooked up right?

avividmemory

You didn't really tell much about what your plans are though...how much boost/whp ect are you looking to achieve?

Smashback

600 streetable horses with ac, ps, cruise, etc. Wants to pass emissions tests legally too.

Well, that's what I took from it anyway.

98hatchdan

This is the original posters buddy who's done a custom impreza RS turbo setup and spends a lot of time in the DSM world , so I know a little more about this stuff than him. I'm trying to help him plan a good kit but I've only worked with the Subies. Anyway, we've been looking into a kit or possibly running a Mitsu TD05 custom setup and shooting between 200-250 whp. The original question I wanted him to find out was if there was any major differences between the different year LS motors. I know with impreza RS's they have Phase I engines which are 98 and prior and Phase II engines that are 99 through current. There are some major differences between the two, such as weak head gaskets on 98's and piston slap issues and obviously phase i's are DOHC and phase ii's are SOHC. Basically I'm just wondering if there are any issues we should consider before getting the LS engine in regards to which year the motor is from. Basically if any changes were made to the motor over the years and any problems that each year might have. Thanks for the help in advance.

Turbo_EK

i run an LS turbo set in my 99hatch i love it. if you're not planning on building the bottom end. do this atleast: oil pump, water pump, timing belt, change the seals, change head gasket, get arp head studs.

i recommend aeromotive boost reference fuel reg, msd 6al, ss blaster coil, walbro pump and msd booster pump. as far as aem ems, it's awsome. I use PMS and it it's good enough for my 12.7 pass.

defcon-racing

As far as I know the only major difference between the 94 and 96up engines is OBD 1 and 2. The sroke and the bore of both years is the same. However, I would probably opt to buy a 96 just for ease of installation. But then again if you were to buy a 94 you would have alot less emmissions related issues to worry about once the computer is installed properly. Aswell, the money you could save can possibily be used towards T-top sleeving or pistons.



[Modified by defcon-racing, 9:33 PM 2/4/2003]

defcon-racing

I would probaly check the following

- ingition timming
- fuel pressure regulator
- all your vacume connections
- fuel controllers if your using any
- fuel filter
- check you sensing device
(it's possible that your O2 sensor or EGT is messed)

If none of these work I would suggest getting some 440 or 550 injectors and a piggyback unit such as PMS or Hondata. Depending on how much power you want it may not be necessary for you to get a stand alone system.

genop

hondata and pms arent piggy back, they are standalone. The afc would be considered piggy back

defcon-racing

???? A piggy back system would be considered as any system still retaining the stock computer wouldn't it. Even if the PMS was using the stand alone software, it would still be a piggy back since it still needs the stock computer a low RPM. As compared to the Hal Tech, Autronic, AEM, Motec, Speed Pro..... were no other computers are required. Right??

boosted ls hatch

i just wanna tell everyone thank u this was my first time doing this so thank u for bearing with me thanks for the advice