spoolinlude

Hey guys,

Putting my car back together for the ehhh... like 8th time?

Long story short, had to have the block decked due to it not being correctly machined previously, thus causing overheating.

Anyway, got it all back together, started it up, at first, had oil pressure like it did prior to the rebuild, 70+ psi at idle, cold. Shut it off, start it again, here's where it goes south. Now we're only getting around 10psi at idle.

Internally to the engine, nothing was changed. First thought, its a gasket somewhere we missed etc... check everything, fine. Second thought, we gas washed the mains somehow trying to get it fired up initially. Ok, replaced the mains, and rod bearing for the hell of it. Still got the same problem.

My external gauge reads around 10-11psi... I know something is wrong, because like I said, the engine made great oil pressure prior to the rebuild.

Oil pressure spikes the minute you get the rpm's up, so I'm hesitant to suspect the oil pump.

Anyone have any ideas? Supposed to take this to the dyno tuesday....

EDIT - I should mention the 10psi at idle is warm. Also the dash light flashes, but again my autometer reads around 10-11psi.

mechanix619

Check the pump to make sure its ok. Also, do you prime the system? I'm assuming the oil pickup is the same and in good condition.

spoolinlude

We sort of primed the system.... I think its been running on and off enough at this point that oil is through it. Yes, same pickup, looks to be in fine condition.

You did give me a good idea, check the pickup tube for a blockage.

carrollea

what grade oil? are you still running jets?

spoolinlude

conventional 10w30, its a H23, I'm assuming you're referring to the "oil squirters", don't have them in a H23.

spoolinlude

Also, no balance shafts, check all that stuff to make sure it was right also.... its all ok. Buddy checked the pickup, its clear.... the saga continues.

h22apwrd95

iTrader: (1)

When you pulled the balance shafts, did you plug the holes coming from the mains? Other than that, the number 3 main needs that O-ring, and there is also the one on the number 3 cam cap. Other than those, I can't think of any other places you could lose pressure.

Mario J

i have ran into a similar problem. what i found that the oil pan was pushed in just enough to give me this issue.
hope that helps

h22-eg-hatch

iTrader: (1)

I'm Also running a h23 with balancing shafts eliminated.
I get 35-40 on a warm idle. Spikes to 80 as Soon as I hit tge throttle
It's usually around 70-80 on a cold start
I'm running 20-50 oil
And I have a little more oil in there.

h22-eg-hatch

iTrader: (1)

Id check that.!!
Fir sure

spoolinlude

Yes, the balance shaft bearing were removed, rotated, and re-installed to plug the holes. Oil pan is a moroso aluminum one, in perfect shape. Oil level is good.

Oring on the main is good, there isn't an oring on the #3 cam cap, thats only on h22s I believe.

70-80 cold start is what I was getting, really confused still......

Pressure still spikes the minute it gets throttle.

h22-eg-hatch

iTrader: (1)

I don't understand why u would remove the balancing shaft bearings. Rotate them. And re install them.? What's the purpose of that..? If u wanna plug anything.
U should get a kazienspeed deletekit

h22-eg-hatch

iTrader: (1)

If ur using a moroso oil pan. Im assuming ur using a moroso oil pickup too.?

spoolinlude

Yep moroso pickup, like I said, this setup was running fine last season, making good oil pressure, put new cams in, new rings, etc.... due to needing to deck the block.

I did switch to main studs from stock bolts, my buddy mentioned that he's heard of the studs causing misalignment of the mains, has anyone ever ran across this?

Reason for turning the bearings is to block the oil holes, the kit comes with plugs, and I have the same plug you're showing in the pic installed, I just made my own. Like I said, this exact setup made good pressure a few months ago. So that's not the issue, none of that stuff was removed/changed.

SovXietday

I know this may seem like a stupid idea but, try a different gauge.

Mario J

i think at this point i would probably pull the oil pump off and take it apart.
maybe some material made it in there after machine work.
i cant remmember does that motor have oil squirters?

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

could the bypass plunger be stuck?

its happened

spoolinlude

Checked the bypass, it was clear. I'm thinking of checking the oil pump just to be certain as well. But the fact that the pressure shoots right up upon giving it throttle, it wouldn't make sense, but at this point, nothing makes sense.

No oil squirters on the H23.

rich7777

^^^ This, all it takes is for a bit of swarf to go threw the pump and its scrap. Its such a easy thing to happen specially after any machine work. How long does the oil light stay on for when the car switch on from cold start ? Have you noticed it stays on for longer than before ?

Veran

I have a B16A2 turbo and :

In warm idle i'm getting 17 - 18 psi.
Full boost @ 8krpm - 62 - 63 psi

using 20w50

I know that my eng. is almost dying, but no issues. lol
I need to change my oil pump, and do a good rebuild.

Veran

BTW my oil pump is 10 years old...

skateboard_ej8

iTrader: (4)

Wish i could help, GL finding a solution.

rich7777

How long does your oil light stay on for on a cold start ?

edstone83

I am interested to see if changing the oil pump out w/ a known good one fixes your pressure issue. Please keep us posted.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

I'm not familiar with h series but do they have an oil flow orifice in the block where it meets the head in between cylinder 2 and 3 that regulates oil pressure to the head? If they do and that's missing it will get crazy oil to the head and drop overall pressure