be18see1

I'm seeing about 10 psi at idle and then roughly 10 psi per 1k RPM (so 20 psi at 2k, 30 psi at 3k, 40 psi at 4k, etc.) This does not match with the Helms requirement of 50 psi at 3k RPM and I'm pretty concerned. I'm running 15W40 in the car at the moment. Please let me know if anything sticks out to you that might be a big culprit (besides god forbid, my clearances have worn.) The motor has roughly 10 - 15 k on it now and was supposedly built with OEM bearings by a reputable local shop. The previous owner (a friend) never ran an oil pressure gauge for god knows why. I'm running an mechanical Autometer now. Here's a list of my concerns:

1.) Car runs hot (cruising at 205 - 210 F). 13 in. SPAL is on the way.

2.) I don't run an oil cooler. Overheated oil = thin oil? Will pressure increase by adding a cooler or after my SPAL is installed?

3.) I have my lines tee'd off the oil pressure sender port like this (2 tees and sender on the end):

_| |____| |________
turbo | oil pre| sender
______|______|______

Could my actual reading be skewed because of this setup (dynamic flow= less static pressure?)

4.) I never bled the signal line to the gauge of air.

5.) Oil pressure light stays on for 3-4 seconds after engine is started. What pressure trips this sensor? Is this just the 15W oil?

rich7777

5.) Oil pressure light stays on for 3-4 seconds after engine is started. What pressure trips this sensor? Is this just the 15W oil?[/QUOTE]

it your oil pump what is the problem. Take it off and inspect it, i bet the inside is worn out/scored. Replace it and you'll be good to go.

be18see1

it your oil pump what is the problem. Take it off and inspect it, i bet the inside is worn out/scored. Replace it and you'll be good to go.[/QUOTE]

That was what I've been thinking too. I'll try to snag a new OBD2 pump soon. Thanks for your input.

rich7777

No problem ! Report back when you have changed it. I'm pretty sure you should be all good Good luck

nasteboyii

i would say your about to spin a bearing/ rod or main.. i m willing to bet that one or more of the bearings is a loose tolerance, letting the oil get by it more then it should

im sure if you put 50w oil in, pressure will go up some, but still wont solve the problem

my recommendation pull of oil pan, pull each rod cap off one at a time, check upper and lower bearing, willing to bet one is going bad

hope this helps
dan

be18see1

I have a new oil pump on the way. I'm going to try that first.

rich7777

I'm 90% sure the pump will fix it.

be18see1

Alright my oil pump is out and on the bench. I pulled off the back cover and checked out the gears. The outside edges have score marks. I can easily grab them with a finger nail in a couple spots. The retaining covers has the score marks as well. Is this what I'm looking for? The actual inside edges of the gears are fine and they mesh with no issues. Seem like my issue?

be18see1

Picture:

rich7777

Yep, that is exactly what i expected to see. Replace the pump and you'll be good again.

be18see1

I wonder what killed it. It was a newer pump. Maybe 10k on it? Oh well, I barely drive this car. I got a OBD2 pump so I'll be good after this.

rich7777

You've had some swarf/debrits pass though the pump. Hopefully your oil filter has caught it all now. make sure you change the oil filter and oil. Also clean your sump out so its spotless. Did you have a load of metal shavings stuck to your sump plug ?

be18see1

I picked this motor up from a friend. It was built by a reputable shop in Columbus, OH where I'm located. I have driven it maybe 1k miles in all and it has always had uncomfortably low oil pressure. I cleaned the sump very well after I drilled for and welded my oil return bung and I've also changed the oil (5-30, 10-30, 15-40) and the filter three times in that 1k miles so it should be cleaned out pretty well by now, whatever it was. I think the former owner definitely contributed to the issue because it definitely wasn't my doing. Motor has always run like a top and with the correct oil pressure, hopefully it continues to do so.

be18see1

PS thanks for your help.

rich7777

No problem ! Let me know what the score is when its fired up again.

DDTECH

if the oil pump doesn't fix the issue, your mains are going to be the next thing to look at, just giving you a direction to head towards if this doesn't fix your problem.. but rich seems pretty confident in his diag.
Good to see help still lingering around this forum.

Those markings seem to be from over reving..

be18see1

I always heard that rod bearings will spin before a main in most cases. I know know that if this isn't the issue, then it must be my bearing clearances. Thanks for your input.

The thought crossed my mind to swap them while I have the pan off since they're OEM and I can easily just install the equivalent sizes and plastigage really quick. But eff that if I don't have to.

DDTECH

Not always.. and rod bearings dont just dictate oil psi neither.. mains do as well. On my last built motor, i had my mains go out due to the motor unbalancing itself due to the clutch splitting in half. Rod bearings were still perfectly new, real new. The mains however were shot.. I was getting under 10psi at idle and on fully warmed condition almost 0 @ idle, only got up to 70psi @ wot..

10-15psi is acceptable on honda's.. but after 3k-k you should at least 50-60psi.. WOT should be 75+.

rich7777

I'm pretty sure he'll be fine when the pumps replaced ALL MOTOR. I've seen this time and time again and its always down to something passing through the pump. Most of the time it is after a rebuild when a bit of crap has been missed when the engine was cleaned. Its actually quite common...

OP, did you try rotating the gear inside the pump when the cover was on ? If so did it jam/lock ?

BTW ALL MOTOR, i maybe interest in a set of custom cams off you in the future for my forged B16 what i'm building. Its going to be around a 400whp setup. Drop me a PM on prices and what you can do for me.