theYBLEGAL

In pursuit of cooler temps.

I have a ramhorn and a half rad. B16. GT28 BB. I hardly run any boost, ~8psi. Block is .25 over, stock sleeves, ~11:1 comp cast pistons.

At Gingerman Raceway, in July at WMHM, I get about 5 good laps before it gets to 210°f. Pretty much since going turbo years ago I've been trying to quell the heat. Timing is reasonable. It's mostly ambient temps, engine makes too many BTUs to lose them on 80° day. From dump tube soak into the rad fix, water meth injection, oil cooler addition, I'm out of things to do.

Except swap the ramhorn for a log mani, and run a full rad. I need a non-cast because I run an external vband tial.

Anyone running a non-cast log? Do they make less heat? Do they withstand vibrations better than ramhorn? (I've fixed my ramhorn maybe 4 times now)

Opinions on schedule 40 mani? http://www.go-autoworks-store.com/goautoworks-log-manifold.html (they brought this back last month!!)

Other manufacturer recommendations?

Opinions/exp on fitment/function full width rad on a turbo EK?

I miss romping lap after lap when it was NA. But I've had the car for 14 years, I need the turbo power and I can't go back lol.

Pics for Oogles

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I haven't run a cast manifold since my GReddy manifold over 20 years ago. (Fellow Gingerman Junky). Ran with a Rev Hard and JDL AUTO DESIGN with Koyo half sized radiator.

I'm now going with a 3/4 radiator using a LoveFab Mini-me EQ., but that's my personal choice.

Having said all that, I believe your move to a tubular log for your GT28R is a wise one. You can still use a half sized radiator, but you need to change to a Koyo 1570, SPAL 13" Puller fan , and a wrapped tubular log manifold, using Toyota coolant / water wetter mix. I don't get any higher than 95c even after 10 session laps...

Google does help, but you have to more specific for your search with road races... POWERNEEDY is the key word to find that answer.

extremeracer

I used an air water separator on my setup (although not road-racing specific) feeding back into the coolant overflow bottle which really helped combat temperatures as well.

Chance EG

InlinePRO makes a top shelf, cast stainless steel log manifold that's been proven to perform well up to power levels far higher than what a GT28 could put out. I've never seen or heard of one failing/breaking either.

Comes with a standard 38mm flange though, so you'd need an adapter for the wastegate. They also make the same model in iron for $100 cheaper, but I'd stick with stainless personally.

InlinePRO Stainless steel B-series T3 manifold B-series T3 AC Stainless - Inline Performance Products

Swirl pot is a good idea for a car on the track, as Extreme is suggesting. What fan are you running? SPAL fan + a relay kit is what you need.

I'm also nitpicking at this point, but you could try closing even that small gap you have between the rad support and the radiator. A little bit of air could be shooting that gap and traveling back along the hood rather than actually hitting the rad itself.

ls joker

What kinda fan are you using now. You could run a full core radiator modified so that the top of the radiator is under where the hood latch would be. The radiator would tilted forward at the top. Then theres the sirocco radiator setups. Your definitely need to do some ducting tho.


and what kinda spark plugs do you run

Cole D

Installing a turbo kit at this time. I ditched the Koyo and decided to run a CSF civic radiator with thermal dispersant coating and too combat radiating heat I chose to Inconel wrap all the hot parts. Hopefully these changes do the trick. Will post some pics later.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

you kinda went backwards on the radiator. I've run both, and the koyo outperformed the CSF by far. Even with the coating (cerakote)

Balor_Gr

Just get some IC water spray and uae it on the radiator. Other that that hood vents help a TON and
some kind of aluminum heat shield to not let heat hit the rad.

Balor_Gr

And no dont go cast super short mani on a GT28 on 11:1 cast pistons.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Use the IC spray for what it's for. The IC. That way he can cool down the intake charge, which more directly would affect cooler water temperatures as opposed to spraying the Radiator (Ask me how I know.. )

Absolutely 100% agreed. If you're going that high of a compression, use a real piston for the purpose. You'll thank yourself 100 times more later.

Cole D

Did you document the testing. How did you come to that conclusion? Pics of my new setup

Thermal Dispersant coating

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

We raced them both on the half sized radiator. (Not to be confused with the full sized version that Boersma Racing used). This was right when CSF came out with the half sized radiator a while back. We had 98*C-100*C after 8-10 laps vs. 93*C-95*C. We went back to the half-sized Koyo with the better coolant / water wetter mixture for the rest of 2014-2015. Now we're abandoning half-sized altogether.

Balor_Gr

Yeah maybe a small injector to spray some mist on the rad andthen let it evaporate to cool. I remember someone doing it on a hillclimb car but im not sure.
It probably needs to be more sophisticated yeah

turbociv910

guy named don like 10 years ago shared his road race track car cooling woes.. full size radiator, coated and wrapped manifold and low boost (7 psi).. a half sizewill not last a 30 minute session no matter what he did.

The sweed

Yes roadracing a half rad with FI is kind of hard.. I have tested a few.. and koyo race version was the best one. A hi flow fan like the 13" spal that draws something like 20A is not to be confiused with the other ones. Do some sheet metal work to direct air to the rad. If it is to much holes around it it creates a pressure cusion in front of the rad and most flow will go around it. Also a shroud for the fan on the backside of the rad can be a good thing. Add something like waterwetter to the coolent. Add a lower temperature thermostat and a higher pressure radiator cap. A good size oilcooler with thermostat control and the factory water oil heat exchanger.. A ecu controlled electric waterpump will also help.. I highly recomend the davis craig system that controlls the waterpump rpm and fan based on coolant temp. It also frees up som hp. A bigger rad is the best way but not always possible.. I ended up putting a large one in the rear bumper along with custom aluminium pipeing and the davis craig pump system in series with a half size in the front. I made a bigger overflow tank also. No racing experiance on that yet but I doubt it will be any problems accept bleeding air out. I push the fluid throu with big pool waterpump and large bucket and let it circulate until there is no airbubbles. take the external pump off and then bleed the normal way.

I cant see how a turbo manifold with worse flow will cool things down.. Do you refer to heat that radiates from the manifold? That can be taking care of with with all kinds of heat wraps etc.. As low exhaust back pressures as you can get is what you want to keep the engine temps down.

turboLScrx

Balor_Gr

I agree with the sweed . Airlining the radiaotor is the key. Plus some sheet metal to block radiation in the engine bay and some hood vents for the air to ESCAPE not go in

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

no. You'll actually make things worse. Sweed had the correct idea and parts

turbociv910

fans become a restriction and a lower speed than you would think. A good inlet shroud setup on a race car with no fans at all is very common.

turboLScrx