TravisBiggie

I'm pretty sure I have a lot of oil in my catch can because of the position of the lines and how they are slanted downwards. The fittings are welded pretty high and in a tight spot, so it seems the baffle inside the valve cover helps.

I do open up a lot on this car. I usually do 8-10+ pulls everytime I drive it. Usually spits out a cup of oil or more each day I drive it. I have a feeling this is normal for my driving style.

I thought about buying a fitting for the back of the block, and running a return line back to the block.

Whatcha think?

inb4 clear cheap hose, green paint, blah blah project in the works








Roll on paint job in the works

LightningTeg

Not much you can do other then try to position the can higher or baffled in front of the holes in the VC. Or coming off the front of the VC could help as well.

Fliptard

z10 makes a kit for the back of the block, someone else does as well, with a plug for a return line. a simple google search will give you your answer. The plug for return or drain back goes in place of the black OEM catch can on the back f the block.

ballistic1350

iTrader: (7)

Roll on paint job?! more info looks good

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

the back of the block fittings syphon oil out just as bad as ports on the back of an LS valve cover. You should vent from the front of the valve cover. Your catcah can needs to be mounted in the engine bay as high as possible but at this point where your breather tubes are locaed your just going to continue to have this issue.

The OBD2 valve cover has more room to work with for venting as well. I have a couple for sale if you need one.

blackeg

dont switch to the back of the block it will push more oil. move the valvecover vent aound try and get it behind a baffle

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Go autoworks makes an fittings for the back of the block, two (2) 10an fittings threaded to fit the ports in the block with a billet black box plug. These kits do not suck up oil like the modified oem honda units everyone runs. The larger inner diameter prevents any of that. I think b&r fittings also has a similar kit

Have you physically emptied the can to see how much is in it? Don't run a drainback as blowby contains horrible things for engine oil and shouldn't be allowed back in the crankcase

Your current setup, are the fittings behind the baffling in the head? Also what size line are you using? Too small of a line will cause faster air speed through the line that can potentially suck up unwanted oil with it. Similar to the problem everyone was having with the honda fittings on the back of the block. The crankcase pressure leaving through those two small ports will create a vacuum behind it sucking up oil. Larger lines solved this issue... both off the block and head

LightningTeg

Yeah those look like -8an equivalents max. I have 2 -12ans off of mine and since relocating to the battery spot, the oil "consumption" is much more reasonable.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Yea stepping up to 10an or 12an lines will virtually eliminate most if not all of the oil getting sucked into the catch can. All you "should" be getting is blowby vapors/oil, some water and condensation and whatever else is floating around the crankcase/cylinder head

NotNew

Definitely need more air flow. When you have a whole bunch of air flowing through a small hose the velocity of the air is higher, ie. faster, and brings oil with it. You need more venting to slow the air down and you'll have less oil. Two more off the front would be a good idea. Look through the vented valve cover thread for ideas. If you really want to use the two ports on the back of the block you can get the oem Honda Prelude ports that thread right in, which I have on my car but oil comes out of those as well especially with higher boost and larger piston to wall clearance and larger ring gaps. Its a battle...

Dark_Teg

I run mine off of the back of the block with a baffled moroso pan. Works very well

justYncredible

iTrader: (1)

I recommend not using the prelude plugs because the diameter is smaller than 10an. I took mine and switched it to the 10an fitting instead

TravisBiggie

Thanks for all the replies guys.

I think I am going to get a new valve cover and start over, with the fittings in the front. If I go with 12an fittings, I will need a new catch can since the fittings on there are -8an -_-
What about a drain back? The only would only drain back once I open the valve.

Lightning, how much for a valve cover shipped to 98198?

LightningTeg

If I had a TIG I would help you but I dont

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Yea we've tried everything to get the prelude fittings to work, even adding a tube off the back to get the fitting inlet out of the path of the oil. Didn't work. Take my advice and experience (and that of others as well) and don't use them

TravisBiggie

A buddy of mine recommended tapping the oil pan drain bolt with a banjo. I don't know how fast the oil pick up is, or if the case pressure will effect the flow of oil into the pan. Im pretty sure the weight of the oil will push itself into the oil pan. An easy 1-2 cups I see that being enough weight to push its way through.
Whatcha think?

Also, I came across a b20 valve cover. Is there an easy way to plug the hole where the line ran from pcv?

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

You don't want a drain back and 8an is way to small for ventilation. 10an minimum. I have a couple valve covers. Two are stock coating and one is powder coated gun metal grey. Lmk which one you want. Also if you want the bungs welded on lmk I can have it done for you before shipping. You can pm me or txt 2034102574

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

No drainbacks

The blowby and whatever else in the catch can is full of contaminants. You don't want that **** getting back in the engine oil. It will cause viscosity issues and potential oil failure depending on how much blowby would be draining into the crankcase

Just make it a habit to check the cans level and empty it on a regular basis