Lots of crankcase pressure on rebuild.
#1
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Lots of crankcase pressure on rebuild.
Well i have 250 miles on the engine and am burning more oil then ever. Catch can steams at idle as well as when i take the dip stick out i have steam coming from there as well.
I have done a compression test all cylinders check out at 180psi.
leak-down on a cold block showed 15% loss.
P2W .0035-.004
1st ring .017
2nd ring .025 max
we have 2 bungs on the valve cover and both produce the same amount of pressure as the exhaust does. the oil burning seems to clear up in the upper RPM's
All advice and input is welcome.
I have done a compression test all cylinders check out at 180psi.
leak-down on a cold block showed 15% loss.
P2W .0035-.004
1st ring .017
2nd ring .025 max
we have 2 bungs on the valve cover and both produce the same amount of pressure as the exhaust does. the oil burning seems to clear up in the upper RPM's
All advice and input is welcome.
Last edited by thegatekeeper14; 05-10-2012 at 10:47 AM.
#5
Re: Lots of crankcase pressure on rebuild.
also, how is your vent system set up? lines from vc to catch can, anything else? anything hooked into block for ventilation, anything hooked into intake manifold?
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Re: Lots of crankcase pressure on rebuild.
has old tune on it, it is boosted.
drive normal but keep it in gear longer to keep the rpms different.
catch can. is connected with 2 bungs on the valve cover
nothing on the block.
drive normal but keep it in gear longer to keep the rpms different.
catch can. is connected with 2 bungs on the valve cover
nothing on the block.
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#8
Re: Lots of crankcase pressure on rebuild.
Is factory pcv on the block?... If not your best bet is venting the block to the catch can, because your building up exhaust gases in the engine, and that will cause the motor to smoke excessively, had that problem with my motor during break-in, I was waiting for the catch can and and the block wasnt breathing so i was building up exhaust in the engine. I wouldnt beat the car up or youll be changing your v/c gasket, cam seals etc
#9
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Re: Lots of crankcase pressure on rebuild.
Is factory pcv on the block?... If not your best bet is venting the block to the catch can, because your building up exhaust gases in the engine, and that will cause the motor to smoke excessively, had that problem with my motor during break-in, I was waiting for the catch can and and the block wasnt breathing so i was building up exhaust in the engine. I wouldnt beat the car up or youll be changing your v/c gasket, cam seals etc
#10
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Re: Lots of crankcase pressure on rebuild.
if hes stock block, stock rebuild, my first guess would be improper breakin, what oil are u using? did u go out and beat on it? if he didnt change anything on the rebuild i doubt the tune would hurt anything. not enough info man we pretty much need a step by step of exactly what u did and what happened after u turned the key.
#11
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Re: Lots of crankcase pressure on rebuild.
well, if hes rebuilt it to the same specs his tune should be near where he wants to be.
If theres a change in AFR, then a tune shouldve been done right after turning engine over to build oil pressuse and later on with ecu attached to check for leaks.
After its tuned is when you want to break in the rings.. if you run it lean, your creating more heat and maybe damaging skirts/rings. Rich will wash out the rings and score the walls..
So theres alot of possibles out there.. waiting for OP to chime in with more info
If theres a change in AFR, then a tune shouldve been done right after turning engine over to build oil pressuse and later on with ecu attached to check for leaks.
After its tuned is when you want to break in the rings.. if you run it lean, your creating more heat and maybe damaging skirts/rings. Rich will wash out the rings and score the walls..
So theres alot of possibles out there.. waiting for OP to chime in with more info
#12
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Lots of crankcase pressure on rebuild.
Second ring could be upside down. That would yield consistent pressure in all cylinders but have excessive blow-by and smoke. 180psi is low on a fresh build unless your running 9.0cr.
#13
Re: Lots of crankcase pressure on rebuild.
If you have a B this is your solution http://www.go-autoworks-store.com/gobseblfiset.html
If you have a D this is your solution http://www.go-autoworks-store.com/godseblplfiw.html
#15
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Re: Lots of crankcase pressure on rebuild.
I'm thinking somewhere down these lines. Or a ring got bent or twisted slightly on assembly.
#16
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Re: Lots of crankcase pressure on rebuild.
im thinking the engine wasnt tuned at start up, after reading this, youll understand why..
according to the OP..
http://www.laskeyracing.com/shop/breakin.htm
according to the OP..
http://www.laskeyracing.com/shop/breakin.htm
#17
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Re: Lots of crankcase pressure on rebuild.
That could also be a problem. It depends how he drove it though. If he babied it around and never put the engine under load he wouldn't of damaged anything. But on the other hand if he did, then I'd suspect that to.
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Re: Lots of crankcase pressure on rebuild.
**update**
there is oil on the exhaust when at a stop light and i take off.
Highway is fine, as is revving it.
seems to only be burning oil when i get to a stop and first take off.
there is oil on the exhaust when at a stop light and i take off.
Highway is fine, as is revving it.
seems to only be burning oil when i get to a stop and first take off.
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Re: Lots of crankcase pressure on rebuild.
Valve seals or turbo seal maybe?. Some smoke is normal out of catch can with that ptw and ring gap combo.
Pull the manifold off and see if turbo is wet inside and see if wet oil inside exhaust ports of the head. Did you do any work to the head?
Pull the manifold off and see if turbo is wet inside and see if wet oil inside exhaust ports of the head. Did you do any work to the head?
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Re: Lots of crankcase pressure on rebuild.
UPDATE***
Compression and leakdown all check out. However when it sits at a stop light or deaccelerate and leave the car in gear right when its given a little gas you'll get a poof of oil smoke in the exhaust. It doesn't burn oil when doing pulls or heavy throttle only as I stated, and its just one small poof then nothing untill the next stop light...
There are 2 bungs in the valve cover and a catchcan that has vacuum attached to the intake. Even when the catchcan is removed we still have the same issues.
I am thinking valve guides because the customer chose not to replace them and they have over 200k on them.
Compression and leakdown all check out. However when it sits at a stop light or deaccelerate and leave the car in gear right when its given a little gas you'll get a poof of oil smoke in the exhaust. It doesn't burn oil when doing pulls or heavy throttle only as I stated, and its just one small poof then nothing untill the next stop light...
There are 2 bungs in the valve cover and a catchcan that has vacuum attached to the intake. Even when the catchcan is removed we still have the same issues.
I am thinking valve guides because the customer chose not to replace them and they have over 200k on them.
#25
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Re: Lots of crankcase pressure on rebuild.
UPDATE***
Compression and leakdown all check out. However when it sits at a stop light or deaccelerate and leave the car in gear right when its given a little gas you'll get a poof of oil smoke in the exhaust. It doesn't burn oil when doing pulls or heavy throttle only as I stated, and its just one small poof then nothing untill the next stop light...
There are 2 bungs in the valve cover and a catchcan that has vacuum attached to the intake. Even when the catchcan is removed we still have the same issues.
I am thinking valve guides because the customer chose not to replace them and they have over 200k on them.
Compression and leakdown all check out. However when it sits at a stop light or deaccelerate and leave the car in gear right when its given a little gas you'll get a poof of oil smoke in the exhaust. It doesn't burn oil when doing pulls or heavy throttle only as I stated, and its just one small poof then nothing untill the next stop light...
There are 2 bungs in the valve cover and a catchcan that has vacuum attached to the intake. Even when the catchcan is removed we still have the same issues.
I am thinking valve guides because the customer chose not to replace them and they have over 200k on them.