brpbanger509

I got a bone stock b20z2 non vtec with an ls trans. Im lookin to build and boost it.but I don't know what parts to go with.... this is my first honda build so take it easy on me. lol .what's the best bang for my buck? Intake,turbo kit,cams,headwork?,rods,pistons, bearing?

ls joker

start with a b16 tranny

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

Gsr trans best all around b16 to short if your trying to out power down on the street

Pistons and rods and a vtec head 10-11 compression ratio. Stick to a power goal and get a properly sized turbocharger that performs well all around for the application.

whitesihatch

^^thats what I was going to add, ditch the ls transmission.

brpbanger509

Ok thanks guys what vtec head should I look for?

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

You don't need to look for a VTEC head. You do, however, need to read the FAQ sticky. It's there for a reason.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Gsr or b16

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

I mean those are the only two options unless you include an R head lol

Unless you're tying to make serious power just stick with the LS head. Get a good set of cams and an aftermarket intake manifold and you'll be fine up to 450-500 or so. After that it takes a lot of boost pressure for a non VTEC engine to make power

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

I still say vtec head. Better powerband more options for cams and valvetrain or oem cams will outperform most aftermarket ls cams

blackeg

another benefit of the vtec head is increased mpg if thats your thing.

you dont need it though to make moderate power. as mentioned a set of mid sized all motor cams ie 403's or brian crower st2 with appropriate valvetrain will help. i tuned an ls with my old p75 head, blox im and bc stage 2's and it pulled very nicely, say above 4800. you want to increase the rpm range to take advantage of that.
comfortably i would take the stock rod bolts to 7400-7500. if you take the motor apart then with the arp fasteners on the rod bolts they will easily rev past what the head will make power. the bane of the nonvtec is the drop in torque. it can fall hard after 5500ish rpm and then you start to have issues with making and carrying power through the rpm range.


honestly if this is your first honda/boost go around and the motor has good health, get a gsr trans, upgrade the clutch when doing the trans swap and boost the stock motor. get a turbo that will accentuate the mid range and enjoy it with a proper tune. it will make similar tq to a 400 hp vtec motor and will still be fun as hell. dont hammer on it down low and make sure the tune is conservative lets say below 4000 rpm with any load in it (boost or even with moderate load still in vacuum ") thats the spot where these motors can have issues.

Geis

I have never heard of one of our motors having issues down that low, I doubt you would even see mbt that low with a 400 hp goal.
Revving the motor high is what I've always seen as the major contributor to an engine failing.

I also find it interesting that this is one of the (presumably) typical 'i want to turbo my car tell me how' type thread, and instead of directing the OP to the FAQs or google/and perhaps giving him info on what's needed to turbo you all are giving him transmission and head advice instead. Can't say I've ever seen this happen around here, I mean NAR told him to FAQ up but seeing how he didn't try to rebuttal turbols' transmission recommendation I kinda doubt he read the entire thread (again)

To OP: You really should familiarize yourself with all the major and supporting components that are needed to turbo, figure out what your goals are and then when you have a decent understanding of how it all goes together then ask more specific questions to us; there are many ways to build a motor and turbo setup, all for different needs and I'm not sure any of these suggestions are going to be very helpful to as far as building your motor/turbo setup.

blackeg

i get what you are saying about mbt and peak cyl pressures, but ill encourage you to put an aftermarket knock sensor/detection on a b20 and see how much timing you pull from even the p75 map to keep it running knock free. i bet you find there is more going on down there than you though. while i have found all of this information for myself on my own cars, frankacura has noted a lot of this as well. just sayin.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Oh I read it. I also decided that transmission information was completely and totally worthless when the OP doesn't even have a tertiary understanding of FI systems. Instead of furthering the shitty noise:signal ratio ITT, I was trying to direct the OP in a more positive direction.

That obviously has failed.