jdm.ej

look at these pictures.. i bought this from a local guy who claims he had it for a year but only ran it for 3 months. minimum shaft play. he said it was a t3t4. it looks like one. but i got no clue th a/r size. so help me out here. please

jdm.ej

bump.^^^^^

Turbocivic94

ya that's T3/T4

hulkhb

its a t3/t4, look on the inside of the exhaust where it bolts up to the manifold, should have a .48 or a .63 scribed in there. Also use that part number on the side and contact turbonetics for complete info.

jdm.ej

i looked it dont say a/r but it did have 63 on the inside

hulkhb

then its a .63 AR, which will spool a tade bit slower than a .48 but your top end will alot better with the .63

imurdaddy

looks like one to me

boostCreep

do the fins look like they have been thru extreme heat to any1 else?...ive seen plenty of turbos and those look bluish grey like the metal was put thru some extreme heat cycles

jdm.ej

i know the guy who had it before me blew is egine twice on it. once on a dynoe at speedcraft and the second time when the rebuilded it they forgot to put the vtec pins in. but aint the ar.63 little to big for my d16y8

jdm.ej

the bluewish stuff is realy some kind of white stuff on it. he said it was lubricant he put on it to keep it from seezing up since he had it sitting for a while. but the stuff should burn off once i get it running

Devine

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdm.ek &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i know the guy who had it before me blew is egine twice on it. once on a dynoe at speedcraft and the second time when the rebuilded it they forgot to put the vtec pins in. but aint the ar.63 little to big for my d16y8</TD></TR></TABLE>

Need more info on your motor set-up before i can answer that question, but if you have a stock y8 than i can tell you that WILL be very laggy, id say start spooling around 4000-4500. ALot of that is also gonna depend on your exhaust and downpipe set-up, you can aid in spooling it faster by running a full 3 inch dp and cat back exhaust and ditching the cat. Or you could be like me and run a 3inch dp and an electronic exhaust cut out

jdm.ej

well my setup as far as motor is just stock besides fpr,intake mani,throttlebody, and (aem pulleys &lt;----- which dont do crap) but for the turbo setup, i got a ssautochrome mani(braced), im going to run 2' from turbo to a 21x9x3 intercooler then 2.25" from there o throttlebody. then custom 3" downpipe threw a high flow cat .

jdm.ej

bump..... so is this to big for a single. i know it will be badass on the highway but i want to be able to beat people on the street. i also know you couldnt really tell me what rpm it will start spooling but you can give me some kind i guestimate.based on what ive stated above ^^^^^^^

1316130057

Something's funny here. If the individual was lubricating the turbo, why didn't he put lubricant into the oiling passage instand of ON THE COMPRESSOR BLADES? I'll humor the guy and assume that he legitimately did put lube into the oil passage. That stil dosen't explain the white schmootz on the blades. Turbos spin clockwise. In order for anything to leak out and over the blades, this one would have been spinning counter-clockwise.

Also, turbines are supposed to either be brown, or black (from soot). Yours is white. Finally, I noticed you said "minimal shaft play". Turbos are supposed to have no shaft play at all. My rule of thumb is "if you can detect any shaft play with your bare hands, then it's only a matter of time til it goes".

jdm.ej

there isnt really any shaft play.plus i heard its not good to have a completly stiff shaft. but my previous questions remain unanswered.but thanks for the input

1316130057

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdm.ek &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">there isnt really any shaft play</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's not what you said earlier.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">plus i heard its not good to have a completly stiff shaft.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't really see the logic in that one, but I'm an open minded kinda guy, so I'm willing to hear an explaination about it.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but my previous questions remain unanswered.but thanks for the input</TD></TR></TABLE>

Your question: asks for a pretty specific answer vs a relatively broad amount of variables so no one here in their right mind will ever be able to answer it for you. The odds of someone having the same set-up are relatively slim. Maybe that's why you've got no answers for it. Also, any lag you'd experience with a hybrid would be laughable in the big picture.

hoggy

I don't know the exact specs of my friends setup but he ha a built y8 with 9:1 compression with a t3/04e .63ar and his spool is around 4500 on a good day. Thats what he told me. Might want to pick up a .48 ar turbine hosuing.

Devine

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdm.ek &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well my setup as far as motor is just stock besides fpr,intake mani,throttlebody, and (aem pulleys &lt;----- which dont do crap) but for the turbo setup, i got a ssautochrome mani(braced), im going to run 2' from turbo to a 21x9x3 intercooler then 2.25" from there o throttlebody. then custom 3" downpipe threw a high flow cat .</TD></TR></TABLE>

if i had to make a guess of when you would spool with the mods listed above, id say around 4k, alot of that is going to depend on what engine management you are running. In my opinoin, keep the turbo, it leaves you room for improvement ie; if you decide to build the motor, or simply throw in some valvesprings and retainers and rev it higher to make use of the .63ar

GT61 this 1.8t

speaking of the white coating on the exhaust wheel its more than likely from running race fuel...
if he ran any kind of leaded race fuel then thats what the white coating on the exhaust wheel is...
turbo looks like its in rough shape... the compressor is more than likely a .50a/r 50trim, could be 57trim.

edit:::after looking at the compressor cover some more, could be a t04b compressor configuration, wheel design looks dated as well.

1316130057

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GT61 this 1.8t &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">speaking of the white coating on the exhaust wheel its more than likely from running race fuel...
if he ran any kind of leaded race fuel then thats what the white coating on the exhaust wheel is...
turbo looks like its in rough shape... the compressor is more than likely a .50a/r 50trim, could be 57trim.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

That would explain the condition of the turbine, but not the compressor which suffers the same ailments. it also wouldn't explain why the turbine housing internally, has the prerequisite soot. If there were leaded gas here, it would take a great deal of unleaded to produce enough soot to conceal it.

v8turbogmc

First of all your Turbo is supposed to have Shaft play. I have bought new turbos from Precision Turbo and have had alot of turbo experience they SHOULD have some shaftplay. To figure out what kind of turbo you have you need to measure the wheels. Get your self a dialcaliper and measure the wheels thrn then you can referance them here&gt;

http://www.jblmk3.com/id134.htm and you can see what turbo you have. I would bet money that its a V trim compressor wheel . Notive the "V" stamped on the compressor housing. A V trim is good for about 500 MAX HP. Here is a link to the Compressor map. http://www.turbomustangs.com/t...2.jpg Im not sure if you know how to read one but, its got a good power range on it. Looks like it will be most efficent from 200 HP to 350 HP


I have a BB T3/T4 kinda like yours. 62-1 compressor and a stage V turbone wheel. It will be going on a d16y8 also.

As far as the coating goes on the Exhaust wheel I would agree and say it looks like race gas.

Get a Dialcaliper and measure that exhaust wheel and see what ya got

jdm.ej

thanks for the reply

1316130057

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by v8turbogmc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">First of all your Turbo is supposed to have Shaft play. I have bought new turbos from Precision Turbo and have had alot of turbo experience they SHOULD have some shaftplay. To figure out what kind of turbo you have you need to measure the wheels. Get your self a dialcaliper and measure the wheels thrn then you can referance them here&gt;

http://www.jblmk3.com/id134.htm and you can see what turbo you have. I would bet money that its a V trim compressor wheel . Notive the "V" stamped on the compressor housing. A V trim is good for about 500 MAX HP. Here is a link to the Compressor map. http://www.turbomustangs.com/t...2.jpg Im not sure if you know how to read one but, its got a good power range on it. Looks like it will be most efficent from 200 HP to 350 HP


I have a BB T3/T4 kinda like yours. 62-1 compressor and a stage V turbone wheel. It will be going on a d16y8 also.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I checked my brand spaking new hybrid with 0 miles on it with a runout indicator and it showed 0.003" of movement when I applied pressure. That's correct. 3/100th of an inch. Mine is BB so the tolerances may be a bit higher, but I can't see that a normal turbo will have any shaft play to speak of. None that the average human being could see or feel. BTW, I suggest using a micrometer sine it's extremely difficult to align the flat surface of a dial caliper or a verneer caliper to hold on to the tip of an inducer. I can take pictures of me micing my turbo's compressor if you'd like.

dunkd

call turbonetics with the number and they will tell u everything.

ion_four

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1316130057 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I checked my brand spaking new hybrid with 0 miles on it with a runout indicator and it showed 0.003" of movement when I applied pressure. That's correct. 3/100th of an inch. Mine is BB so the tolerances may be a bit higher, but I can't see that a normal turbo will have any shaft play to speak of. None that the average human being could see or feel. BTW, I suggest using a micrometer sine it's extremely difficult to align the flat surface of a dial caliper or a verneer caliper to hold on to the tip of an inducer. I can take pictures of me micing my turbo's compressor if you'd like.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are you saying 3/100th's within the plane of the shaft (side to side) or perpendicular to the shaft? There should be basically no side to side play, but maybe upwards to 3-4mm perpendicular to the shaft, when the bearings are dry in a floating bearing set-up.