sk8phaze

Okay, This sounds great and all and if anyone has any experience on this i would love to hear what you have to say, its by xs racing and stone racing and it costs $500 dollars for the turbo, manifold and wastegate. As the auction says no block shaving needed, im not sure if its a/c compatable. Heres the link to the site/auction on ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...33742

If this turns out to be a good bang for the buck i will invest in it. All are welcome to comment.Thanks, Drake.

beepy

The manifold is good and the wastegate is good. Stay away from the turbo, though. There are several recent posts about this.

I would buy the other parts seperate and get an actual Garrett Turbo, not these poorly-casted knockoffs.

And with that manifold, be sure to properly support the exhaust and turbo. You should be able to remove the manifold without the turbo moving; otherwise it will eventually crack. (It is sufficient to weld a bracket to the downpipe which bolts to a couple transmission bolts, as per OEM)

sk8phaze

Do you happen to have any links to the posts about that turbo, or info on it your self? It says its a Super t3/t4, i dont know if that is the brand or if it is just some cheezy name they gave to it.

beepy

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=946036

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=942949


Synopsis:

Stoner Mountain Racing turbos
SSAutoChrome manifolds
SSAutoChrome BOVs

si_blues

I just bought the same kit it is the same SS autochrome is selling before you buy it know that your going to have to have the welds on the manifold rewelded, they are very crappy welds. The turbo will have to be rebuilt it wont last at longest six weeks, and as far as I know the bov and wastegate work out fine. If you got the extra couple hundred bucks to rebuild the turbo and can weld youre in good shape

Jared

manifold is crap, turbo is crap. wastegate is ok.

Big_Bird

yeah I am with those guys, that manifold is an SS auto chrome so you either re-weld that or brace it to the block very heavy, that manifold alone should make you run and hide

sk8phaze

Thanks for the info, i have a airesearch t3 .42/.48 turbo and i have not used it yet, some how just storing in my room i bent the exterior wastegate valve a **tiny** bit, i dont think enough to not used it any more, but i will need to bend it back out and just externally wastegate it, but that will mean getting a different Manifold (cause mines a internally wastegated manifold). i've had these parts for over a year now and want to get this kit on my car. do you think this t3 turbo will be ok for a good 7-8 pounds on my stock ls/vtec, or should i sell it and get a t3/t4?

beepy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your going to have to have the welds on the manifold rewelded, they are very crappy welds.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Once again, this is no longer true. The SSAC manifolds from a year or two ago looked like they were welded by monkeys. But the one I just bought has outstanding TIG welds. The primaries are welded to the header flange on the inside and outside, they are thick flanges, and the tubing is more than 2mm thick. I have to remove the flange to weld on my Kia flange, and I have already gone through 3 carbide hacksaw blades. I am actually buying a handheld bandsaw tomorrow to finish the job.

Give them a chance. You should brace the exhaust, though, with any tubular header. Holding up 30 pounds on steel tubing at 1200° through repeated heat cycles is a lot to ask.

twkdCD595

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beepy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> and I have already gone through 3 carbide hacksaw blades. I am actually buying a handheld bandsaw tomorrow to finish the job.</TD></TR></TABLE>

a milwaukee or whatnot portaband.... or a sawzall will do the job like butter.