Lightest Rods for Non-Sleeved Block Build
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Lightest Rods for Non-Sleeved Block Build
Hi there guys, I'm planning on building my bottom end and wanna make around 400hp. I'm not going to go down the sleeved route as to get a sleeved block around here is too much really. I wanted to have the most reliable FI setup, thus having the lightest rods for less engine strain, bearing etc.
I have looked at the manley H beams which come to around 505g and are great value. The turbo tuffs are too heavy and I really don't think i need them with how much power i want.
What about N/a rods? Something like the carillo Pro A's which weigh around 411g..
Any thoughts and suggestions will be highley appreciated
Thanks
I have looked at the manley H beams which come to around 505g and are great value. The turbo tuffs are too heavy and I really don't think i need them with how much power i want.
What about N/a rods? Something like the carillo Pro A's which weigh around 411g..
Any thoughts and suggestions will be highley appreciated
Thanks
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Re: Lightest Rods for Non-Sleeved Block Build
Looking at grams of weight on turbocharged vehicles is really not necessary. You don't gain any real power advantages from a few grams of rotating assembly when you're going for more horsepower. This isn't an N/A application or a sport bike, where rotating assembly weight associated with rpm speed is paramount; the car is force inducted, and therefore, doesn't really subject itself to the same parasitic losses from a heavy rotational assembly.
Simply put.. stop sweating it. Manley rods are fine. no need for aluminum carrillos.
Simply put.. stop sweating it. Manley rods are fine. no need for aluminum carrillos.
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Re: Lightest Rods for Non-Sleeved Block Build
Engine strain in an NA build is from inertia's effects at high rpm. Adding an extra 1000 rpm (with same torque levels) doubles engine strain. I saved a picture someone posted of their stock GSR rods/pistons compaired to their CP/eagles - the OEM parts were actually heavier.
As far as reliability, I'd much rather have thicker rods that put a bit more stress on the bearing, as opposed to toothpicks that might snap and take out the entire engine. 5 rebuilds are always cheaper than a 2nd built longblock.
As far as reliability, I'd much rather have thicker rods that put a bit more stress on the bearing, as opposed to toothpicks that might snap and take out the entire engine. 5 rebuilds are always cheaper than a 2nd built longblock.
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Re: Lightest Rods for Non-Sleeved Block Build
I was trying to find the weight of stock GSR components, that's quite intriguing that the forged bits weigh less!
Thanks for your help guys, I'll just go with the Manley H beams!
Thanks for your help guys, I'll just go with the Manley H beams!
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d16dcoe45
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10-23-2006 07:45 AM