Leplease

Hello fellow Honda heads
I have a 95 eg and currently have a healthy gsr in it
my plans are to boost reliable 250-300 hp
i purchased a decent turbo kit
going to send it stock block with upgraded injectors, clutch and fuel pump.
gonna get a wide band and boost gauge as the kit doesn’t not come with it
Will I be able to attain my goals with this for now ?
also if I were to get injectors will 440cc rc injectors work without a resistor ?
And if I were to run 440cc would I be able to drive the car out of boost to the tuner or would that be too risky ?
tuner is a good 45 minutes away..

Txdragon

I could pull up about a million GSR turbo builds in seconds with a search but... What "decent" kit did you purchase?

Leplease

Not a big baller to get an go autoworks but I got the top mount kit from cx racing

Dee

What ECU are you planning to use? You should be able to "cruise" to your tuner on the base map (base map for turbo).
Which 440cc injectors? Are you buying these injectors new or used?

Txdragon

I cant say how the fitment is with their B-series stuff is but, it was horrendous with D-series. I had to modify A LOT for decent fitment. Be aware of this. I hope you've got a really good array of tools, up to and including a welder. Top mount was probably a bad way to go for such low numbers if you want any responsiveness at all. Be aware of that as well.


^^^

This. What are you using for engine management? You burning a chip or running Hondata, Neptune, or something similar? RC has both saturated and peak and hold so it depends on what you get that will determine if you need a resistor box or not, but generally, you cant just drop them in and go.

turboLScrx

If this is going to be a daily car.....DO NOT buy a cheap manifold unless your willing to disassemble your car for repairs all the time, save your money and buy a quality manifold or just buy a cast manifold. I just went though it myself. You will not be able to drive your car on 440 injectors unless the ECU has been altered, just wait until you get to the tuner and then do a fast swap. Listen to the people that are giving you advice...... they have went through what your about to do and have experienced issues that they are trying to help you avoid

Leplease

I have a chipped p28 on a gsr base map with slight adjustments for bolt ons chipped on crome, I am wary of the cheap cx racing parts and am planning to upgrade manifold wastegate and bov in the future.
This is my first turbo build.. all my other builds were all motor so this is all new to me.

What are all the must have requirements to make 250-300 reliably ?

DaX

iTrader: (1)

Reliability is a spectrum, not an absolute. I have a shop full of tools from working on cars for 23 years and specifically Hondas for 17 years. Reliability to me is a way different concept than reliability to someone who only wants to take their car to Jiffy Lube every few months for an oil change and not do anything else but drive it. Your power goal isn't ridiculous for someone running turbo for the first time, which is good. Getting the car tuned by a professional should be #1 at the top of your list. If your budget is $3,000 and the turbo kit costs $3,000, that leaves you $0 for tuning, and you need to wait to put it together/drive it until you can afford tuning. You need a healthy engine that can take the added stress, a fuel system that can deliver the required amount of fuel, a cooling system that is adequate, and an ECU/supporting systems/sensors that will allow the vehicle to be tuned. Be aware that there are small things that add up that most folks overlook in their initial consideration - seals and gaskets, fluids, fabrication like adding an oil return bung to your oil pan, upgraded MAP sensor, etc.

Leplease

Thanks this is what I needed, will be going with fid 1000cc high impendance injectors so no need for resistor box, I did a compression test and all 4 cylinders are all good and have consistent pressure. I’m just worried about the drive to the tuner, don’t want to drive it there and have it blow up somehow on the way

2001GSRSC

Nah, don't be. With the stock injectors and factory ECM it will run fine. Do not push the acc pedal down far and, watch that boost gauge so you do not tip in. Get it there and swap the injectors and ECM.

It will cover the Closed and open loop, fueling with the turbo hanging off the front.

The requirements for 300?
I do the timing belts, water pump, oil pump, Head Gasket, Head studs, viton valve stem seals, Set valve lash, and hit the trans up with a fresh clutch.

Get it running tip top.

DaX

iTrader: (1)

Borrow/rent a truck and a tow dolly.

Dee

Joke post?
A new water pump, oil pump, head Gasket, Head studs, and viton valve stem seals are not needed for 300hp if the motor is not haggard. However the timing belt needs to be checked if the motor/timing belt combo has more than over 60k miles on it.
If the engine is torn apart for 250~300hp you might as well build for 500whp+ by sleeving the block and adding after market pistons and rods .

Start with compression/leakdown test and then add:
ECU (for boost)
Injectors (550 or larger instead of 440)
Turbo kit (mani, turbo, w/g, bov, IC)
Upgraded clutch
Free flowing exhaust larger than OEM
colder spark plugs
Rising rate FPR (did not see this mentioned previously)
Higher capacity fuel pump
Higher capacity fuel filter

Other than installing the injectors and turbo kit (mani, turbo, DP, w/g) at the tuners location, Dax's comment provides the safest option.

DaX

iTrader: (1)

Just make sure it's a 1:1 FPR, not one of the old "FMU" 12:1 rising rate FPR's, lol.

Dee

lol... I should have said adjustable boost compatible FPR because FMU's are the suck!!

Mchecco2

I’m running a b18c1 turbo for over a year. Car makes right around 300 and is super reliable. I’m going to regret saying that. Just switched to e85 and she’s still has been running good. But like people are saying 440’s should drive fine just be easy on her.

Leplease

Bringing back this thread
just got the car started with 255 LPH fuel pump 1000 cc fid injectors got a comp stage 3 clutch
sounds good but the wide band is reading 10.6 at idle and i was like damn that’s way too rich and i blipped the throttle a little and it was still way too rich, went to check for leaks and burnt myself on the manifold cause It was scorching hot and the car was barely on for a minute or so. Is this way too rich to be driving to the tuner which is 2 hours away?

Txdragon

WAY too rich. You need to be 14's at idle. 14.5-15ish at idle is ok. 10's will wash your rings if you just rebuilt it.

turboLScrx

‘Did you calibrate your wideband?

Leplease

It’s an aem I don’t believe it needs calibrating

2x0

Not to state the obvious, but did you adjust your calibration for the 1000cc injectors?