go hard jersey

Hi. Im currently happy with my b16a build but am looking to buy a new bottom to slowly build up properly for the future. I was pressed for time and money while initially building my turbo B16a. I was able to do everything i wanted with it, with the exception of sleeving it. The currant build turned out nice but it left me with additional desires.
currently;
B16a head, Full Manley train
00 usdm ITR cams Sk2 pro gears oem gasket ARP studs
Sk2 IM, Sk2 70mm TB
B16a stock bore stock sleeve
CP 9.5/1
scat rods
PTE5857 82A/R

It made a respectable 475hp 315 TQ on 93 @18 psi s300 evans tuned.

This set up won't last forever and I'd like to have another bottom ready. The kicker is it is driven daily and in a perfect world Id be ok sleeving my existing B16a. To avoid downtime I'd like to have something on a engine stand hangin out while I acquire parts.
My question is broad I know but if you were starting in my situation where you could buy anything what bottom would you grab? The goal will be 600ish HP. I will be reusing me existing head. Whatever it ends up being it will be sleeved, Manley turbo tuff rods will be used, with CP pistons. It will always ONLY be a pump gas engine, and will continue to be driven often.
I have some reservations on LS & B20 bottoms because I'm not super crazy about having to use a sandwich plate or the need to attach a fitting to the head for lubracation purposes.
Can some people with experience with B20 turbo's school me on the actual limitations if any since it will be sleeved. If going this direction with a non vtec block all i need is a girdle, and a way to get oil to the head? If going with a OEM vtec block all i need are oil squirter plugs ? I read babble about stroke issues from the B20, but that may be on unbuilt blocks, and people talk when they really know nothing, so sorting through the misinformation is ruff. Whats going to give me LESS issues for building my new bottom. Im looking for some pro's and cons. My gut tells me to just search for a GSR and be done with it but the ones I see all say they have blown rod bearings, if i buy something like that if I'm going to send it out does any of that matter?

boosted_D

iTrader: (1)

If you want the least amount of possible complication, just buy another known good B16 bottom end and sleeve/build that. Then no worries about deck height, t-belt/cam gear issues, oil feed issues etc.

You can bore a sleeved B16 to 84.5 mm and have a 2 liter B16 block ready to slap in at a moments notice.

Getting a B16 block will cost you more than picking up an Ls or B20 block from a junkyard, but it will also un-complicate things.....my .02

DirtyDA9

Get a b18a/b bottom end, and build it right. The only way a VTEC bottom end will give you the same power, is if you sleeve it to 2.0, you will not need to sleeve the b18a/b till about 500hp

dcmatt

iTrader: (7)

You can go to 85mm but either way it will not be a 2.0 not even a 1.8. I do agree with you on just sticking to a b16. Sleeved b16 block w same bore and he could use the same pistons and rods.

DirtyDA9

Just realized you are shooting for 600hp, no matter what block you go with it will need to be sleeved. Go with an LS bottom end, sleeved to 84-85mm. Screw a b16 bottom, you may have some nut swingers comin in here talking about rod/stroke ratio like its actually a big deal, but it's not. The B16's stroke is only good for high revs, not torque. But a built LS bottom end will handle just as high of rev's but it will give you much needed torque the b16 lacks.

boosted_D

iTrader: (1)

I get owned for not thinking and reading LOL..........yeah a sleeved 2 liter b18 a/b will be the way to go man......and 600 whp and pump gas don't belong in the same sentence, maybe e85 but 93 no edging way its gonna happen.

blackeg

if you are sleeving then i would do either of the following
1) ls block and ls crank
2) gsr block and ls crank

for bore size, id personally start with 83 or 84mm. gives room for rebuilds and could allow you to use it for longer. either way with the increase in bore and stroke, you will be happy with the increased response. i was very happy when i went from 81 to 84mm

juceveoc

b18 a/b its the best option, sleeved it forged internals and youll be ok .
b18 a/b b16a2 head or b18c1 with head work

DirtyDA9

GSR with LS crank was gonna be my next suggestion, but the price of a GSR block compared to an LS block is ridiculous. Nowadays people just throw away LS blocks lol.

go hard jersey

I appreciate everyones responses! the new block will ABSOLUTLY be sleeved. boosted D, I think you have good points but disagree with you on 600 on pump. I have had my stock bore/sleeve bottom b16a making 475 at only 18psi. You really think that a sleeved 1.8 @ 25psi or so won't get me to or close to 600? I have all the good high end supporting mods, COP, Big cams ect, and a great tuner. As for gas e85 is not a option. neither is c16.

go hard jersey

I see lots of Gsr bottoms for sale by me usually around 400-600 bucks. But I see a lot that claim a spun rod bearing,those are the $300-400 specials, is there a issue buying one with a spun bearing if I'm sleeving and completely rebuilding it? I can get a ls crank for 60-70 bucks

blackeg

its not worth pushing a fuel when there are options out there. i know people make lots of power on 93 but for myself i stopped at 440hp and went to vp c12. yes, price does come into play but a few more dollars per gallon is worth saving thousands on a new engine. maybe a pump gas/race gas tune is in order. you can switch maps and fuels at the track

go hard jersey

i have a beast of a head, all done up. will save me $$ in this new build.

go hard jersey

ill take this into consideration. Thanks... We had to stop at 18 going off the gate. had a gate issue. Currantly being addressed. Id love e85 but none around, the car is a daily driver. But its great....shift before 5k and it feels like a oem car...Id1000's are great injectors, but after 5k something evil happens,lol

go hard jersey

And can you school me on he business of these oil squirter plugs i keep reading about?

DirtyDA9

They don't make C16 anymore anyway I'm pretty sure. You would have to go with C12. 93 will get you there, but you will need a REALLY GOOD tune, and even then, you will be stretching it.

And it doesn't matter if the block had a spun bearing, I assume you will be rebuilding with forged rods anyway.

DirtyDA9

As for the oil squirters (if you go with the GSR block), just get a GE block-off kit, or just bend them (kink them). LS blocks do not have them.

The oil squirters are to cool the piston skirts, no need for them with forged pistons.

go hard jersey

Thanks. pretty much all my questions answered...Im sure that the c16 issue was west. I'm in jersey and i can get it at a few spots by me.Or the spots by me had a excess supply because i know road runners on avenel st in woodbrige has it, I see ur in philly. I just would never use it because my cars a daily and that **** is $90 for 5 gallons. Im straight on that....lol

DirtyDA9

Lol yea C16, not so good for daily use... Well technically, 600hp is not great for daily use either, but hey, your testing those waters

go hard jersey

LoL yea no good. Yea i push...475 is cool,but whats NOT cool is the waste gate problem i have. i need a second gate, so were going off the spring. And because of that I can't regulate so every gear is at 18PSI,& 475hp which makes first gear pointless.....although it is really fast for me, but heres the deal once you get that turbo itch its over! it feels fast for a week an then you want more! its a daily driver that was purpose built for road course (car was great on old kit made 360, which was great for road course) obviously I don't need 575-600 for that. to be honest i will never drag race it. after running time attacks straight line racing at the track lost its appeal. And i really don't beat the car up,its not like i take it to redline ofter even, but I want it all there when i catch idiots out on the highway. I'm 6 months in on the B16a it has cp.'s and scats..and it leaks nothing with minimal smoke. Whats cool is with the AFI race top mount it love top end, so if I shift at 4900, you would never know it was even turbo.

boosted_D

iTrader: (1)

I really dont think there is any way you will make 600 whp on 93.....475 yeah.....there is a HUGE gap between 475 and 600, no matter how built it is your gonna have to run very agressive timing to hit 600, probably beyond the reach of 93 without so much det. and knock the motor will self destruct........If it was a v8 then yeah 600 on pump sure, but even a 2 liter, I highly doubt it.

juba_x

i have a bare b18c1 pm me for more info