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well i finally bought a TIG welder. its so nice being able to repair my own stuff instead of having to rely on shops to do it. first thing i did with it was redo my MIG welded bumper exit. it turned out alright considering it was the first thing ive ever tig welded, i have no pedal, and its a $250 amazon welder lol.
2nd thing i did was make a new dumptube from sch 10 stainless. the old one was pretty wonky. it was welded by 3 different welders using multiple types of steel with some mig, some tig... and i had to crush it in a vice to clear the bigger turbo lol
bought some fancy **** for my transmission. new MFactory LSD, Liberty 1st and 2nd, Synchotech carbon synchros for 3rd and 4th (not pictured)
I took the car out to a local meet and found some mustangs that wanted to race. The first video vs a black mustang that had a ported manifold, bigger injectors, long tubes, 3 inch catless exhaust, and an intake. He claimed it was on 93, but the bigger injectors suggest it might be e85. Anyway, we raced from 60-140mph. Unfortunately i had the whole interior in, two 12 inch subs, and a 200 lb passenger, so i didnt do very well. The good thing, however, is that they thought my car was slow so they wanted to set up a money race for the next week. I said no prob, lets do it. the video with the green 5.0 is a $400 run agreed to be 40-120mph. I showed up with no passenger and no interior... so about 300 lbs lighter than what they first saw. I walked away with a little bit of money lol.
(ht wont let me upload videos for some reason so here are the links)
I welded up a clutch stop cause i was over extending the pressure plate. works great and now that i have full throttle shift set up on my ecu, shifts are lightning quick.
Went to the track looking for 7.8s or faster. I finally managed to cut a 1.7x 60 ft. the car went 7.71 at 93mph which should be good for 11.8s @ 118 in the 1/4 mile. Previously my best time with the old turbo was 7.98 @ 90mph with a 1.80 60 ft.
Bought me some used RPF1's and got some neo gens mounted on the rear and R888R's on the front
My new engine is currently being assembled at RLZ and should be ready in early May. Time for 10s!
thanks for viewing!
Got a buddy with a similar build shooting for 7's. Also in NC. The current setup? LS, Nippon pistons, scat rods, stock cams, GSR trans with mfactory LSD, Hunter Turbo, Log manifold, 3" bumper exit, 93 pump?
Got a buddy with a similar build shooting for 7's. Also in NC. The current setup? LS, Nippon pistons, scat rods, stock cams, GSR trans with mfactory LSD, Hunter Turbo, Log manifold, 3" bumper exit, 93 pump?
my current setup is stock LS with ARP head studs, Supertech springs and retainers. pistons/rods/cams are OEM. Stock LS gearset, open diff, 23 inch tire. Log manifold, Hunter turbo, 2.5 inch bumper exit, and yes 93. The new setup will be Nippon/Manley pistons and rods, BC stg 2 cams, Liberty dog 1/2, stock 3-5, LSD, same turbo kit and fuel system... hopefully making 430-450 but well see how she does on the dyno. itll prob barely crack 400 lol but im hopeful.
my current setup is stock LS with ARP head studs, Supertech springs and retainers. pistons/rods/cams are OEM. Stock LS gearset, open diff, 23 inch tire. Log manifold, Hunter turbo, 2.5 inch bumper exit, and yes 93. The new setup will be Nippon/Manley pistons and rods, BC stg 2 cams, Liberty dog 1/2, stock 3-5, LSD, same turbo kit and fuel system... hopefully making 430-450 but well see how she does on the dyno. itll prob barely crack 400 lol but im hopeful.
Nice. Super simple setup and good numbers! Congrats
I'm curious what the reason for going "half-dog" box (werewolf box?) is? 1st and 2nd gears can take heavier abuse now?
Good question. The reality is i should stop being poor and do 3rd and 4th too.... i still might. The main reason i went dog engagement for 1 and 2 is shift time. The rpm difference between gears is greatest between 1 and 2 and synchros have a hard time letting me get into 2nd on quick shifts, even with "full throttle shift" activated on neptune. With dog gears itll go into 2nd regardless of rpm even with a little bit of load. I wont be able to clutchless shift til i get a strain, but in the meantime itll make for a quick 1/2 gear change. Also it makes cool noises when putting it into gear lol.
Good question. The reality is i should stop being poor and do 3rd and 4th too.... i still might. The main reason i went dog engagement for 1 and 2 is shift time. The rpm difference between gears is greatest between 1 and 2 and synchros have a hard time letting me get into 2nd on quick shifts, even with "full throttle shift" activated on neptune. With dog gears itll go into 2nd regardless of rpm even with a little bit of load. I wont be able to clutchless shift til i get a strain, but in the meantime itll make for a quick 1/2 gear change. Also it makes cool noises when putting it into gear lol.
Hey, thanks for the explanation! Everything (regarding a transmission) beyond a bearing/synchro/seal refresh and an LSD is SUPER expensive, so I don't blame you! Is this a track only car, or do you drive it on the street too? What are the drawbacks to dogs over synchros - shorter life, etc?
Hey, thanks for the explanation! Everything (regarding a transmission) beyond a bearing/synchro/seal refresh and an LSD is SUPER expensive, so I don't blame you! Is this a track only car, or do you drive it on the street too? What are the drawbacks to dogs over synchros - shorter life, etc?
Yea man its pretty expensive. Just the lsd, synchros and liberty 1/2 was about $1250. 3 and 4 would be another $550ish... and I still havent bought new seals and bearings yet lol. Its not my daily, but its still a street car. I drive it to work a few days a week and go looking for money races after meets on the weekends. Ive never driven a car with dog gears before, so Im not 100% sure how it will be. From what my tuner has told me and from talking with other guys who have dog boxes, Ive gathered a few things. 1. Without a specialized shifter (Long/T1) or a Ktuned with lockouts, its very easy to money shift because, unlike synchros gear boxes, you can go into any gear, at any speed. In other words, I can be doing 140 and drop it right into 1st with no resistance lol. 2. They are clunky and require intention when shifting. Cant slow shift it or baby it... gotta grab the gear or the dogs will bounce of each other and kick out of gear. 3. Its not bad on the street once you get used to it. 4. The life of the dogs should be reasonable, they shouldnt wear out any time soon.
We shall see, im excited to test the new transmission out. Im gonna bolt in the built short block and built trans at the same time so it should be fun
Yea man its pretty expensive. Just the lsd, synchros and liberty 1/2 was about $1250. 3 and 4 would be another $550ish... and I still havent bought new seals and bearings yet lol. Its not my daily, but its still a street car. I drive it to work a few days a week and go looking for money races after meets on the weekends. Ive never driven a car with dog gears before, so Im not 100% sure how it will be. From what my tuner has told me and from talking with other guys who have dog boxes, Ive gathered a few things. 1. Without a specialized shifter (Long/T1) or a Ktuned with lockouts, its very easy to money shift because, unlike synchros gear boxes, you can go into any gear, at any speed. In other words, I can be doing 140 and drop it right into 1st with no resistance lol. 2. They are clunky and require intention when shifting. Cant slow shift it or baby it... gotta grab the gear or the dogs will bounce of each other and kick out of gear. 3. Its not bad on the street once you get used to it. 4. The life of the dogs should be reasonable, they shouldnt wear out any time soon.
We shall see, im excited to test the new transmission out. Im gonna bolt in the built short block and built trans at the same time so it should be fun
Dog box for street use isn't a problem, the only issue I had when I drove mine on the street was the 5th gear cuff which does suck not to be able to shift to 5th. You do have to shift faster but not crazy fast like you would if using a strain gauge or anything. I started with the Liberty Face Plated gear set and it did well until about 700whp and then I started having issues.
Thanks bud. I got the idea from Jay at RealStreet. It makes a huge difference only having to push the clutch pedal halfway or so.
Originally Posted by AZ_CIVIC
Dog box for street use isn't a problem, the only issue I had when I drove mine on the street was the 5th gear cuff which does suck not to be able to shift to 5th. You do have to shift faster but not crazy fast like you would if using a strain gauge or anything. I started with the Liberty Face Plated gear set and it did well until about 700whp and then I started having issues.
Yea i was a little reluctant at first but i talked with a few guys who street drove 600-800 hp cars with dog boxes and they said the same. I think itll be alright. Im really looking forward to not getting locked out of 2nd at the track.
Whats up guys, ive made alot of progress on the car in the past month and it now has the built engine and transmission in the car. I will make a detailed post with lots of pics soon but for now i need some experienced advice from the OG's. I installed a blue gates racing belt due to my stock (new, OEM) breaking at 15k miles due to stiff valve springs (i think.) The belt didnt seem to tension very well using the oem method (5-6 rotations, loosen, 3 teeth, etc.) But i fired it up anyway. On intial start up it seemed to be flapping quite a bit (it was hitting the inside of the lower timing cover) so i shut it off and added a little tension which seemed to cure it. After the warmup oil change i took it for a drive around the parking lot. I made it 200 ft and the belt jumped and bent the valves. Im installing a new set of ferreas and dont want to risk the belt jumping again. Guys who run kevlar belts (greddy, toda, gates, pe) what is your method of tensioning?
Whats up guys, ive made alot of progress on the car in the past month and it now has the built engine and transmission in the car. I will make a detailed post with lots of pics soon but for now i need some experienced advice from the OG's. I installed a blue gates racing belt due to my stock (new, OEM) breaking at 15k miles due to stiff valve springs (i think.) The belt didnt seem to tension very well using the oem method (5-6 rotations, loosen, 3 teeth, etc.) But i fired it up anyway. On intial start up it seemed to be flapping quite a bit (it was hitting the inside of the lower timing cover) so i shut it off and added a little tension which seemed to cure it. After the warmup oil change i took it for a drive around the parking lot. I made it 200 ft and the belt jumped and bent the valves. Im installing a new set of ferreas and dont want to risk the belt jumping again. Guys who run kevlar belts (greddy, toda, gates, pe) what is your method of tensioning?
we tend to use OEM method as you had before, but they don't slack like the gates , and don't require extra tensioning devices, either.
It shouldn't jump. Make sure that tension is solid after a few runs of the engine. that's it.
I don't have a manual in front of me at the moment, but, I'm sure there is a tolerance (OEM) for t-belt deflection. Would the same apply to modified? Should there be more or less deflection based on induction type or HP levels?
Is it B-series where you need to have the correct water pump on there or else the tensioner doesn't have enough stroke to take all the slack out? Or am I thinking about D-series?
Is it B-series where you need to have the correct water pump on there or else the tensioner doesn't have enough stroke to take all the slack out? Or am I thinking about D-series?
19T on non-vtec, 22T vtec. You could potentially have a point but, I never liked the Gates belts. OEM or nothing personally.
04-27-2019, 07:18 AM
re: K20z1ej1's "Hunter" turbo B18B build thread *2019 Going K-series!!*
