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In the interest of keeping the FI forum clutter free, I decided to create a build thread - that way, if i have any questions or need input, ill just ask them here. Thanks to all the folks who have helped me so far with my build, whether parts selection or advice on tuners, and thanks in advance to anyone who does the same on the future.
So, long story short, i havent built a honda in years. Ive had a few civics/integras in the past and ive always loved the way these cars drive, even in stock form. I like cars to be simple - the less electronics or assists, the better. Despite having driven a handful of exotics and muscle cars over the years, i think the most fun ive ever had in a car was a buddys turbo civic making around 450whp. Ever since then ive wanted a to build a boosted honda but i always ended up building an all motor car or NA+nitrous. NA hondas will always have a special place in my heart, but this time, its gonna be boost. Anyway, a few months ago i bought another ej1 chassis for this build. Since then ive been steady collecting parts and im almost ready to swap the engine in. Once i get the swap up and running ill begin collecting parts for the turbo side of things - kit, injectors, pump, etc. I dont have time to post any pics right now, but, as an avid build thread reader, i know a build thread aint **** without pics. So, rest assured, ill get those up as soon as i can. For now, i have a question. Im about to purchase an Action clutch kit. Im set on the 1MS (stage 3 i believe) and on JHPs website the option exists for a 4 or 6 puck. Ive had a CC stage 4 (6 puck) before and i wasnt fond of it as a daily clutch. Would a 4 puck be any less harsh? Exedys stage 2 (3 puck) is known for its power holding and steet-ablility compromise so thats what got me wondering. Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.
I would go with the Exedy Stage 2 (#8950B) which is a 3-puck thick pad ceramettalic. I've even had NA guys use this clutch on occasion, and I have had 2 over the years. It was absolutely fantastic, easy to drive, and doesn't drive as though you have a "puck styed" clutch at all. Up to 500whp is about as good as it gets with this, and added with a nice 12lbs Exedy flywheel, it almost has a stock-like behaviour. I'd use that over an action clutch any day of the week. Action who?
I would go with the Exedy Stage 2 (#8950B) which is a 3-puck thick pad ceramettalic. I've even had NA guys use this clutch on occasion, and I have had 2 over the years. It was absolutely fantastic, easy to drive, and doesn't drive as though you have a "puck styed" clutch at all. Up to 500whp is about as good as it gets with this, and added with a nice 12lbs Exedy flywheel, it almost has a stock-like behaviour. I'd use that over an action clutch any day of the week. Action who?
Yea I hear ya, if it was possible with my budget then that would be my clutch of choice. Im trying to spend the least amount possible while not sacrificing quality. Action makes really high quality clutches and their prices are super competitive which is why Im going with them over Comp. Again, exedy is my fav clutch/flywheel maker, I just can't budget that level of awesome with this build :/
I'd just wait, and get the right clutch, than to compromise. I never did understand when people know exactly what they want , and don't take a bit more extra time to create the budget to get it. It's not like we're talking over $1000 difference. but if you're going to do it, don't **** around. Just show some patience and get what you want.
I'd just wait, and get the right clutch, than to compromise. I never did understand when people know exactly what they want , and don't take a bit more extra time to create the budget to get it. It's not like we're talking over $1000 difference. but if you're going to do it, don't **** around. Just show some patience and get what you want.
I totally hear what youre saying, i just cant justify buying a $450 clutch right now. An action 1ms is good quality and will hold the torque i plan on making, im just unsure if a 4 puck or 6 puck is easier to drive on the street. Believe me, if i had the money i would be building a low mile DC2 chassis with a 4 Piston KT1000 longblock, PPG gears, Exedy twin, Garrett 3584, ID 2000s, e85, etc. Oh and blue dc5 Recaros with Carving Lover Soul Classics. The reality is that my budget for this build cant include top shelf parts everywhere. I have to make some sacrifices here and there. Im not buying an ebay clutch and ebay wastegate with a cx racing turbo. Im still going to use proven, name brand parts for everything. Just not top shelf.
I totally hear what youre saying, i just cant justify buying a $450 clutch right now. An action 1ms is good quality and will hold the torque i plan on making, im just unsure if a 4 puck or 6 puck is easier to drive on the street. Believe me, if i had the money i would be building a low mile DC2 chassis with a 4 Piston KT1000 longblock, PPG gears, Exedy twin, Garrett 3584, ID 2000s, e85, etc. Oh and blue dc5 Recaros with Carving Lover Soul Classics. The reality is that my budget for this build cant include top shelf parts everywhere. I have to make some sacrifices here and there. Im not buying an ebay clutch and ebay wastegate with a cx racing turbo. Im still going to use proven, name brand parts for everything. Just not top shelf.
Ok, so I have pictures. Im new to image hosting so if the pics dont work ill figure something out. Also, sorry my camera sucks. Ill start with the chassis. I found a 95 ej1 on craigslist for $800. It wasnt perfect, but its clean title, has fat 5 wheels with decent tires, a really clean interior, and the owner had a good head on his shoulders so i gathered that the car was pretty well taken care of during his time of ownership. I offered him 550, he countered with 600, I said deal. Here she is.
I found a complete obd2 JDM B18B swap on ebay and it looked pretty clean so I called the place to buy it and it sold literally a few minutes before I called them
Having pieced together swaps before, I decided that this time around I didnt want the headache of buying individual parts, wondering how many miles are on those parts or if they work at all, etc. Well, I searched and searched for a complete swap and came up with nothing. About a month later I found this B18B (ironically at the same place as before) so I called and immediately put a deposit on it. Its pretty clean, came with the uncut harness, starter, alternator, ecu, etc. Not the complete engine/trans/ecu/axles/linkage swap I wanted, but a clean starting point nonetheless.
A few weeks later I find an LS transmission for about $300, so I scooped it. A few days later, I come across a craigslist ad that I had seen months ago for some 22x8x15 slicks. I wasnt planning on buying slicks until I had the turbo kit, but it was a great deal and they have alot of life left. Oh yeah, the guy that sold me the transmission threw in a stock clutch and flywheel. I wont be using the clutch but the flywheel will prob be used.
Bought some axles for the low. One is brand new.
Picked up a Gates belt and water pump, OEM thermostat and NGK BKR6E-11's (not pictured)
BLOX thermal intake gasket
So I went to the local LKQ u-pull-it to pick up parts for my brother and I found a fresh 2005 rsx. I look at the seats and they are nearly mint. No holes/cuts/burns. Pretty much perfect. Not in the budget but I get excited, so I buy them. Driver side pictured.
Got some brand new NGK blues for a great price. I also decided that the valve cover could use a refresh. I didn't strip the paint because the OEM wrinkle finish is the perfect texture IMO so I sprayed about 15 VERY LIGHT coats of black over the original paint. I alternated between gloss and flat and then did the last 5-7 coats with semigloss. I really like how it turned out.
Ive purchased other things too, engine mounts, seals, belts, and other odds and ends, but thats about all for now. Yesterday i bought some worn out shift linkage for $30 and ordered Hardrace bushings all around. Other goodies are on the way and ill have an update next week as i begin the swap.
Well i finally bolted on my turbo kit. I was going to buy a shelf GoAutoworks street kit, but i decided to piece one together instead. I still have to buy a bov, fabricate a wg dump tube and fix my poorly fitting ebay downpipe. Overall, im happy with how everything fits and with the parts i purchased. I still have a pesky misfire/hiccup and after spending nearly $1000 and 6 months of my life replacing parts and testing every imaginable component, i have given up and decided to let my tuner **** with it when i take it to get tuned.At this point i literally dont care how much they charge me to figure it out, im exhausted and want to drive the damn thing.
Anyway.
The kit consists of:
Ebay cast iron log manifold
Turbosmart Ultragate 38 w/ 14 psi spring
Turbonetics T3 Super 60 .63 A/R
Ebay downpipe
Go Autoworks oil kit
Intercooler and piping bought from a member on HT
Southbay 1000cc injectors
K-Tuned 4 bar map
Blow off valve TBD (prob turbosmart)
Id like to see 300whp on RLZs dynapck but i dont think ill get there with a super 60. Ill be happy with 280+. Anyt thoughts or suggestions appreciated
Make getting a filter on the turbo and a dumptube made a priority. Also, why not top timing cover?
Cheers
Shortly after i took that photo i attached a piece of screen mesh and a clamp on the compressor inlet. Exhaust work will be next, gotta get a license plate on the car before i can drive it to my welder : Timing cover removal happened when i noticed the inner cover was warped and both cam gears were rubbing on it. I tried trimming the plastic but it didnt work. I would like to run a top cover but the car isnt seeing any street time right now so it isnt a big priority.
Shortly after i took that photoi attached a piece of screen mesh and a clamp on the compressor inlet. Exhaust work will be next, gotta get a license plate on the car before i can drive it to my welder : Timing cover removal happened when i noticed the inner cover was warped and both cam gears were rubbing on it. I tried trimming the plastic but it didnt work. I would like to run a top cover but the car isnt seeing any street time right now so it isnt a big priority.
Which is why the rebuild/replacement industry has soooo much business.
Ah yes.. So many rebuilds in so little time., from sooo many people that you've seen not having a proper filter. (Even the Turbonetics playbook calls for it, so...dunno.. #ReadTheInstructions #ProfessionalInstall)
But after all this time.. Y'all know what I'm gonna say already, so I'll save the keystrokes.
Which is why the rebuild/replacement industry has soooo much business.
Ah yes.. So many rebuilds in so little time., from sooo many people that you've seen not having a proper filter. (Even the Turbonetics playbook calls for it, so...dunno.. #ReadTheInstructions #ProfessionalInstall)
But after all this time.. Y'all know what I'm gonna say already, so I'll save the keystrokes.
I like the build man. Reminds me of my old LS hatch, simple, cheap, and super fun.
K&N is probably the best as far as filters go, but I’ve had good luck with cheap $15 filters from silicon intakes as well. You will have the best results if you build an air intake tube for the turbo before the filter.
K&N is probably the best as far as filters go............. You will have the best results if you build an air intake tube for the turbo before the filter.
I like the build man. Reminds me of my old LS hatch, simple, cheap, and super fun.
K&N is probably the best as far as filters go, but I’ve had good luck with cheap $15 filters from silicon intakes as well. You will have the best results if you build an air intake tube for the turbo before the filter.
Thanks, your build thread motivated me to go turbo ls. Its the cheapest way to get to 300 hp reliably. Ill prob get a K&N, dont want to anything getting sucked into the compressor wheel lol.
Originally Posted by LightningTeg
This is how I did mine. Looks like you got the room
.
Looks good. Ill see what i can do. I think i have some extra piping layin around.
Anyone have experience with homemade boost controllers? Ive seen a few youtube videos and it got me wondering. Certainly less expensive than the cheapest name brand manual controllers.
Anyone know how high i can turn up a Super 60? Ive done some searching and read that low 20s (psi) are about as much as they can handle. Do you think 20 psi would get me to 300 on an average reading dyno?
Which is why the rebuild/replacement industry has soooo much business.
Ah yes.. So many rebuilds in so little time., from sooo many people that you've seen not having a proper filter. (Even the Turbonetics playbook calls for it, so...dunno.. #ReadTheInstructions #ProfessionalInstall)
But after all this time.. Y'all know what I'm gonna say already, so I'll save the keystrokes.
If you got a nickel for everytime you have given this advice you'd be a rich man! Ive read many and Ive only been here since 07. No matter what it costs ill be doing it. GL to you K20z, you got a nice little car there
If you got a nickel for everytime you have given this advice you'd be a rich man! Ive read many and Ive only been here since 07. No matter what it costs ill be doing it. GL to you K20z, you got a nice little car there
Th
Anyone have experience with homemade boost controllers? Ive seen a few youtube videos and it got me wondering. Certainly less expensive than the cheapest name brand manual controllers.
Anyone know how high i can turn up a Super 60? Ive done some searching and read that low 20s (psi) are about as much as they can handle. Do you think 20 psi would get me to 300 on an average reading dyno?
You really don't want to keep that turbo at all, do ya?
DO NOT do the homemade boost controllers if you care about this car. We've done those for 15 years, and damn near every one of them that used a ball/spring type caused overboost destroying the engine. Just spend the $70 already.
Super 60 doing 300whp is a tall order, but doable. Expect to be over 20+psi to do it.
You really don't want to keep that turbo at all, do ya?
DO NOT do the homemade boost controllers if you care about this car. We've done those for 15 years, and damn near every one of them that used a ball/spring type caused overboost destroying the engine. Just spend the $70 already.
Super 60 doing 300whp is a tall order, but doable. Expect to be over 20+psi to do it.
Haha I do care about my car, that's why I'm asking
Will buy a Turbosmart mbc. I have no prob spending money on reliability. I'll cheap out on things that don't have moving parts (manifold, ic piping, etc) but I'll always spend the money on functional things so I don't have to build it twice.
Would 20+psi be outside of a super 60s efficiency range/comfort zone? I guess my goal is to target the maximum hp that the turbo is COMFORTABLE with. I don't want to stress the turbo or shorten it's life. I know the engine can handle 300+ just want to make sure the turbo can.
Haha I do care about my car, that's why I'm asking
Will buy a Turbosmart mbc. I have no prob spending money on reliability. I'll cheap out on things that don't have moving parts (manifold, ic piping, etc) but I'll always spend the money on functional things so I don't have to build it twice.
Would 20+psi be outside of a super 60s efficiency range/comfort zone? I guess my goal is to target the maximum hp that the turbo is COMFORTABLE with. I don't want to stress the turbo or shorten it's life. I know the engine can handle 300+ just want to make sure the turbo can.
Well, you're not in the "sweet spot" of the efficiency range. This actually at the edge of it. They do about 300-325whp, but they start gasping a bit after that. You won't over stress it unless you don't do what it takes to take care of the turbo ( no inline oil filter, no water lines, don't change the oil, the usual suspects).
But I wouldn't concentrate on power so much, as for your engine it's a torqey little beasty, which is what makes the little bigger so much fun to drive with! So enjoy it, and put a proper intake& filter on
Well, you're not in the "sweet spot" of the efficiency range. This actually at the edge of it. They do about 300-325whp, but they start gasping a bit after that. You won't over stress it unless you don't do what it takes to take care of the turbo ( no inline oil filter, no water lines, don't change the oil, the usual suspects).
But I wouldn't concentrate on power so much, as for your engine it's a torqey little beasty, which is what makes the little bigger so much fun to drive with! So enjoy it, and put a proper intake& filter on
ok, agreed. i guess ill ask howard to turn it up as much as he is comfortable with.
i just pulled the trigger on a Turbosmart Vee Port. gotta go thru my pre-tuning checklist then its off to the dyno
04-06-2017, 09:00 AM
K20z1ej1's "Hunter" turbo B18B build thread *2019 Going K-series!!*
