Just Started Up My Newly Turboed D16
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Just Started Up My Newly Turboed D16
So I just started my car yesterday after working on it for a week. It is ideling fine but I have a few questions. Also my car is a 97 civic dx coupe with a t3/t04e
1. The weld for my oil return bung is leaking(friend did it for free) So far I have been told to use JB weld. But I have no garage so my car is outside. Will JB weld dry in 20 degree temps?
2. Is the secondary o2 sensor really necessary?
3. Is there a break in time for the motor/turbo. I know that for the first time starting it you should let it idle for 10-20 min.(did this) but should i run low boost(5psi) for a while?
4. At the moment i dont have a missing link or check valves are they necessary
Thanks for the Help
Modified by TurboTagTeam at 5:33 PM 3/2/2005
1. The weld for my oil return bung is leaking(friend did it for free) So far I have been told to use JB weld. But I have no garage so my car is outside. Will JB weld dry in 20 degree temps?
2. Is the secondary o2 sensor really necessary?
3. Is there a break in time for the motor/turbo. I know that for the first time starting it you should let it idle for 10-20 min.(did this) but should i run low boost(5psi) for a while?
4. At the moment i dont have a missing link or check valves are they necessary
Thanks for the Help
Modified by TurboTagTeam at 5:33 PM 3/2/2005
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Re: Just Started Up My Newly Turboed D16 (MooreBoost)
ok i just did some searching, Im gonna just get some check valves for now. Im not good with electronics so i wanna stay away from uberdata. I have a vafc, but im planing on getting a hondata s200.
Also there is about 1/8 tank of gas left in my car of low grade gas. If I fill up on high grade will I be okay or should i drain the gas first?
Also there is about 1/8 tank of gas left in my car of low grade gas. If I fill up on high grade will I be okay or should i drain the gas first?
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Re: Just Started Up My Newly Turboed D16 (TurboTagTeam)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboTagTeam »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok i just did some searching, Im gonna just get some check valves for now. Im not good with electronics so i wanna stay away from uberdata. I have a vafc, but im planing on getting a hondata s200.
Also there is about 1/8 tank of gas left in my car of low grade gas. If I fill up on high grade will I be okay or should i drain the gas first?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good luck with wasting your money.
Also there is about 1/8 tank of gas left in my car of low grade gas. If I fill up on high grade will I be okay or should i drain the gas first?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good luck with wasting your money.
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Re: Just Started Up My Newly Turboed D16 (BrokeAssPinoy)
if you dont have a missing link as soon as you enter boost the motor will missfire real bad cause the map sensor is seeing boost.
#9
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not true:
if you go ABOVE 1 BAR, which i know is 14psi, but on hondas if you seem to go above 12psi it will throw the MAP code because you have exceeded its limits. this is why you need a missing link, if you have an OBDI motor or newer you will need the lik because you have no where to put a check valve, the MAP is bolted to the throttle body.
you can use an o2 sim and be fine, just dont use it on the front o2, use it on the back one, its just a sniffer for measuring content.
if you dont like electronics why are you going to hondata??
also i would not use that low octane gas at all personally i would drain it and use itin the lawn mower.
if you need to use JB weld or "muffler mend" you can get away with that, but i would mix it a little thicker with a little more hardner and use a heat lamp under the car to speed the drying process.
also drain the oil below the level of return and spray the **** out of it with some carb cleaner or else the JB wont stick
if you go ABOVE 1 BAR, which i know is 14psi, but on hondas if you seem to go above 12psi it will throw the MAP code because you have exceeded its limits. this is why you need a missing link, if you have an OBDI motor or newer you will need the lik because you have no where to put a check valve, the MAP is bolted to the throttle body.
you can use an o2 sim and be fine, just dont use it on the front o2, use it on the back one, its just a sniffer for measuring content.
if you dont like electronics why are you going to hondata??
also i would not use that low octane gas at all personally i would drain it and use itin the lawn mower.
if you need to use JB weld or "muffler mend" you can get away with that, but i would mix it a little thicker with a little more hardner and use a heat lamp under the car to speed the drying process.
also drain the oil below the level of return and spray the **** out of it with some carb cleaner or else the JB wont stick
#10
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Re: (mrbsponge)
jb weld will work in 20 degree weater, just let it dry for 24 hrs.
i used jb weld, and then put some silcone on there too after it dried.
i have a o2 simulator for sale if you want it.
platinum
i used jb weld, and then put some silcone on there too after it dried.
i have a o2 simulator for sale if you want it.
platinum
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Re: (mrbsponge)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mrbsponge »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
if you dont like electronics why are you going to hondata??
</TD></TR></TABLE>
What else would I use? I am going to pay a shop to tune my car with hondata.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nonvtecD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Good luck with wasting your money. </TD></TR></TABLE>
So you consider Hondata a waste of money? I think a professional tune is definatly worth 500-1000$
if you dont like electronics why are you going to hondata??
</TD></TR></TABLE>
What else would I use? I am going to pay a shop to tune my car with hondata.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nonvtecD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Good luck with wasting your money. </TD></TR></TABLE>
So you consider Hondata a waste of money? I think a professional tune is definatly worth 500-1000$
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Re: (mrbsponge)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mrbsponge »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
if you need to use JB weld or "muffler mend" you can get away with that, but i would mix it a little thicker with a little more hardner and use a heat lamp under the car to speed the drying process.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i used jb weld. didnt have a problem, although i would have liked it to have been welded for real. good call on the mix it thicker.
just fill your tank full of 93 on top of the low grade u have in there, and use 93 or 94 if you can get it from now on.
if you need to use JB weld or "muffler mend" you can get away with that, but i would mix it a little thicker with a little more hardner and use a heat lamp under the car to speed the drying process.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i used jb weld. didnt have a problem, although i would have liked it to have been welded for real. good call on the mix it thicker.
just fill your tank full of 93 on top of the low grade u have in there, and use 93 or 94 if you can get it from now on.
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Re: (blackeg)
you shouldn't need the missing link or check valves if you are using a VAFC. and why does $500-1000 sound good for a shop tuned car when you can spend alot hell of alot less and run uber and have it street tuned.
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Re: (TurboTagTeam)
Don't even hit 5psi without any fuel management you will blow the motor. You will also get a CEL at anything over 5psi, 12psi Yes getting it protuned with good management will be the smart thing to do will give you a reliable car.
#17
Re: (jeffsciv23)
if you are not running engine management at all, you will need the missing link for any boost. once the ecu sees any amount of boost w/o engine management, it will throw CEL. if you are not running any management, you need to have a missing link or a check valve
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Re: (Evanmb44)
from my experiences, anything over 5-6lbs without a missing link will throw a code.. if u are planning to get hondata, i would recommend uberdata.. uber is a free based management.. all you'll need is obd1, p28, and someone to tune.. if u were planning to have someone tune hondata, they can tune uberdata also.. almost the same thing, just uber is free as in hondata is like 500 bucks not saying hondata is bad.. its more like this.. uber if ur cheap.. hondata if u have cash to spend..
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Re: (eli_vang)
I'll look into uberdata. Hondata just seemed like a sure thing for a good tune. I'v never heard of people having engine management problems with hondata. I have heard some horror stories about uberdata.
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Re: (TurboTagTeam)
no man you can run 10 psi without throwing a map sensor cel. over 11psi is where it starts throwin that code and you would need the missing link to hide boost from your car. Hondata/Uberdata: if he's set on Hondata then that's cool, it's better than that AFC hack and FMU
#21
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Re: (BrokeAssPinoy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BrokeAssPinoy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no man you can run 10 psi without throwing a map sensor cel. over 11psi is where it starts throwin that code and you would need the missing link to hide boost from your car. Hondata/Uberdata: if he's set on Hondata then that's cool, it's better than that AFC hack and FMU </TD></TR></TABLE>
you are way wrong. What do you expect your ecu to do when the map sensor sees boost? The ecu doesn't come with fuel maps for boost so it is gonna go crazy when it reads any boost.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboTagTeam »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'll look into uberdata. Hondata just seemed like a sure thing for a good tune. I'v never heard of people having engine management problems with hondata. I have heard some horror stories about uberdata.</TD></TR></TABLE>
what "horror" stories have you heard about uberdata? Do you know anything at all about uberdata? Its the same damn thing as hondata and if you spend $500 on hondata + more $$ to have someone tune it then you are nuts. If you can't take time to learn how to tune yourself then you should look into Neptune. Neptune is 100x better than hondata with way more features and it also costs around the same price. From what i heard neptune tuners are charging around $5-600 to hook your ecu up with neptune and tune it.
you are way wrong. What do you expect your ecu to do when the map sensor sees boost? The ecu doesn't come with fuel maps for boost so it is gonna go crazy when it reads any boost.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboTagTeam »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'll look into uberdata. Hondata just seemed like a sure thing for a good tune. I'v never heard of people having engine management problems with hondata. I have heard some horror stories about uberdata.</TD></TR></TABLE>
what "horror" stories have you heard about uberdata? Do you know anything at all about uberdata? Its the same damn thing as hondata and if you spend $500 on hondata + more $$ to have someone tune it then you are nuts. If you can't take time to learn how to tune yourself then you should look into Neptune. Neptune is 100x better than hondata with way more features and it also costs around the same price. From what i heard neptune tuners are charging around $5-600 to hook your ecu up with neptune and tune it.
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