420aNT

Okay so heres the story. My car is an 01 Gsr with around 7,200 miles on the clock.

I have a fully built B18C1 Sleeved by GE, pistons, rods, headwork etc.

I am running hondata S100 with boost option / or trying to

So it starts like this. I hookup everything and the car starts right up, but is running rich due to the basemap and the 700+cc injectors. I also have a steady check engine light but thought it was because of the hondata ecu.

I drive the car 2.5 hrs to syracuse to have it tuned by Gruvytune. Upon attempting to connect gruvytunes laptop to my P28 I have smoke coming out of the ECU. It seems to have burnt the injector drivers some how.

I have to switch back to my stock ECU and baby the car back home with a trail of black smoke behind me.

I send the ECU back to hondata and they send me out a replacement. I hook it up and my car will start but the rpms keep climbing to over 6,000 rpm.

So this is the strange part if you unplug the map sensor the cars idle will drop back down to around 1,000 rpm and runs crazy rich.

I contacted Hondata and told them what was going on. I sent the ECU back to them and waited 2 weeks for a replacement unit.

I get the new ECU and it does the same exact thing. I am thinking that they just send me back the same one each time.

The only code that the ECU will throw is for the IAT sensor. Even with the map sensor unplugged it will not throw a code for the map sensor.

I have had Boosted Hybrid try to help me by coming up to my place twice but with no success. What is the problem here.

I need to get this car going asap. Anyones help is greatly appreciated. I will haul the car up to 2 hrs away to get fixed, if you can fix it and my stuff doesn't get jacked.

420aNT

bump

Dee

Call Hondata and talk to Matt or Doug. Doug actually me when I had a problem a while back and I live in Japan.

ladysman

Do you have a resistor box for the injectors? You didn't mention it so I had to ask.

stackz

you've got something wrong with your car somewhere in the wiring and...if I had to bet...it's not the ecu's you're getting its the bad parts you aren't replacing which is causing the ecu's to fry immediately. it only takes a split second to burn a pc board ya know...

I say play it super safe and while you've sent the ecu back again...replace all that other ****. iat and map sensors...go over your wiring harnesses and check grounds and connections...

and most importantly...ask yourself, "why did it wait all the way until I hooked it to that laptop before it threw smoke all out at me??"

420aNT

Yeah I am using an OEM resistor pack. The map sensor was replaced with a new one as well. I have used a multimeter to check voltages and everything checks out. Everything points to a bad ecu. My car will run with a stock ecu but not with my hondata so explain that.

ladysman

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 18gTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah I am using an OEM resistor pack. The map sensor was replaced with a new one as well. I have used a multimeter to check voltages and everything checks out. Everything points to a bad ecu. My car will run with a stock ecu but not with my hondata so explain that.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Did you follow the Wiring diagram for the resistor pack on the hondata.com site?

420aNT

yes the resistor pack is wired correctly. I have had it checked by 2 seperate individuals both knowledgable tuners. The car ran fine on the way to syracuse with a check engine light. That is a 2.5hr drive. How does my car run then after the ecu fries it never wants to run again. Someone out there has to have an answer.

420aNT

anyone

420aNT

ttt

Spunkster

Another Hondata tuner called me today and told me what the problem was he was having that took him 3 weeks to figure out.

What it turned out to be was a wire that had rubbed itself bare and was shorting and grounding out. The kicker was that it would not do this parked, idling or under testing situations. It was all vibrational and very hard to diagnose and find, but he did find it.

Ecu's dont' just fry for no reason. Another dealer had problems with an ecu not wanting to work with the Hondata anymore...turns out the interface cable that was used had been slit open by sharp edges they had cut into the case and it shorted out and fried the serial port of the processor.




Modified by Spunkster at 12:19 AM 7/23/2003

420aNT

I am using a P28 that was modified by hondata with the plug already installed in the case. I am out of ideas here honestly. I have checked and rechecked everything on this car to no success.

BrokenVtec

not starting any flaming or anything but i have personally seen one of these ecu's go bad for no apparent reason.....happened to Gruvytune here on the board.....PM him for more info

Spunkster

I guess I should say 3 ecu's in a row do not fry without something causing it.

420aNT

Honestly I think the last 2 were the same exact ones that I sent them. They had the same marks on the inside of the case before I sent it and then when I received the replacement ecu.

420aNT

okay so when I switch the plugs around from the IAC valve and the IAT sensor my car will run better but still runs rich. Could it be that one of these are the culprit of my problems. The plugs were in the correct location before because I have the wiring diagram and I verified the wire colors.

VaporTrail

Have you tried a different Hondata modified ecu? IE one not modified by Hondata? I once ran into an issue with a ecu modded by someone else, now I will only use ones modded by my guy.

420aNT

no I only have one ECU.

Dee

I only have one question.

Why would Hondata send you a different ECU if the ECU you shipped them did not fail any operational checks? If another Hondata uses lives near you just use their ECU to verify that you have a wiring problem.

The source of your problem is somewhere within your wiring harness.

420aNT

the wiring was never touched. It ran and then stopped running. The car is brand new with only 7,100 miles.

R-Toyz.com

Have you tried using that ECU in question in another car? See if it does the same thing. That could help you troubleshoot.

This is a longshot but try inspecting the plugs and pins of both the ECU and the wiring harness. See if anythings loose, or could be causing a short.

Hope this helps.

420aNT

they told me that this was a new ECU. It was the same damn one that I sent them everytime. They told me it was taking so long because they were waiting on a shipment of ECU's and thats why they couldn't send me one right away. Why tell me that then send back my old one?

R-Toyz.com

Try plugging the ECU in another car to see if it acts the same way. If its the ECU, then send it back to Hondata.

If all else fails and you need something to run your car...drop me an email rtzcom@yahoo.com. We can help you out with alternative solutions.

Benbuilt4u

i had a similar problem with my 92 hatch back. my problem was the main relay it was intermittent. but your car is a lot newer. also what fuel pressure are you running and what multiplier?? and with my car a 92 civic the diagram on there website for the resitor box was wrong. my car had the wires in a different place. i had to do mine with a ohm meter and check countinuity one by one.

Dee

Have you spoken to Doug or Matt recently? Contact them and they WILL take care of your problem.

FIND ANOTHER HONDATA IN YOUR AREA so you can test your car!