mr. Grind

Hey guys, after numerous weeks of fighting with the swap, I am finally able to get it do. I swore on many occassions to part the car out but my partner wouldn't give up on it. Final outcome
Motor: 1998 built (je pistons and rods+ sleeves) jrsc b18c1 with IHE
Car: 1988 Honda Crx
E.M. Hondata s200b
Max Boost: 5-6lbs
Max Power: 215hp/145tq
Herein lies the dilema, before tuning I changed the crank pulley to a lighter (single grooved for running only the alternator) and smaller diameter (now i know where 3lbs of my boost went.
Big question is:
Do i need to drive 1.5 hrs to retune the hondata even though the tuner had it running a little rich in the mid to upper rpm ranges.
for the most part the A/F ratio is 11.5 and fall to 11 after 7k rpm
What do i do guys?
ps. The boost guage now shows a consistent 9lbs at WOT throughout the gears and the car is now so addicting to minimize my crave to drive it (not fully tuned) i stuck it in the deepest corner of the garage and covered it up. Its hard to drive this car and not want to beat on it. Even my wife who mainly drives the family car (STI w/ baby car seat **** SVUs!!) has gotten addicted to her first drive in my rust bucket crx.

RacerXI

Yes. A retune is in order. BTW...that's a nasty little setup. Even though i'm turbo, JRSC cars still have a warm place in my heart.

Also, are you reading your a/f from a wideband? or were those values from your tuning session?

Zakar

with a fully built engine, you could run alot more boost couldn't you?

toolowsol

JRSC is hard to run lots of boost on, even if you get the pullies figured out to run say 15 pounds, the supercharger loses efficiency and starts heating the air way to much causeing detonation. Realistically 11psi or so is about the max for a JRSC on a honda without the aftercooler.

mr. Grind

those A/F figures are from my 1st tuning session

RacerXI

Retune

bxsi

I had a very similar setup to yours, with a b16a head, b18c1 sleeved 85mm bore, 9.5:1 compression at first then went 10.4:1, water injection and lht intercooler. Thats right i had both. Car was trapping in excess of 110mph in a 2600lb coupe. Anyway, my advice to you would be to get a retune, even though a good tuner would extrapolate the tune over higher boost levels and there is a good chance you could be running safe. At very least get a bullshit autometer air/ fuel gauge and if it pegged rich at wot it probably is, but then i would probably pull about two degrees from the distributor just to safe. But eventually when money isn't an issue get it retuned

Zakar

i didin't know the jsrc was so inefficient
that kind of stinks.. how much more can you run with the aftercooler?

bxsi

The jrsc is limited at about 11-12psi even with an intercooler because of blower rpm. The pulley setup is nothing more than a gear ratio and at 11-12psi the blower is spining close to its maxium rpm something like 17,000 rpms or so. Thats not saying it can't make power, but the motor has to be setup right. Higher than stock compression forged pistons on a jrsc setup is a nice move

mr. Grind

woohoo.
I was able to get a retune and the a/f is steady at 12-12.5 and the best part
252hp and 163tq (and i thought the car was running crazy strong before.)
one more question guys.
How will you think the spring and summer time will affect the hp and a/f ratios?
(I am in the midwest and dyno temp was 35deg and summers can get up to 100 and over.)

Tad

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kingmarc01 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">woohoo.
I was able to get a retune and the a/f is steady at 12-12.5 and the best part
252hp and 163tq (and i thought the car was running crazy strong before.)
one more question guys.
How will you think the spring and summer time will affect the hp and a/f ratios?
(I am in the midwest and dyno temp was 35deg and summers can get up to 100 and over.)</TD></TR></TABLE>

great man!
those are good numbers!
i'm pretty sure you can run another couple lbs of boost through that blower safely though, and definetely that motor can handle it(pistons rods sleeves? fawk!)

bxsi

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kingmarc01 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
How will you think the spring and summer time will affect the hp and a/f ratios?
(I am in the midwest and dyno temp was 35deg and summers can get up to 100 and over.)</TD></TR></TABLE>

From my experience, in the summer the tune will richen up slightly. Also those numbers will suffer in the summer without some sort of cooling the air charge. You should have datalogged the intake air temps when dynoing this last time out. I'm sure it was at optimal conditions for the jrsc, everyone loves winter with the jrsc. You could still make power in the summer, i made over 250whp on a 90 degree day with water injection. My intake air temps with water injection would stay below 120 degrees on the hottest days, under 100 in the winter

mr. Grind

thanks for the replys. I only drive the car once of twice a week. I will probably drive it more in the summer. Bxsi do you reccommend any other cheap ways of cooling the air intake charge apart from water injection.
Ps. It won't see more than an hour of hwy or city driving at a time.

bxsi

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kingmarc01 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for the replys. I only drive the car once of twice a week. I will probably drive it more in the summer. Bxsi do you reccommend any other cheap ways of cooling the air intake charge apart from water injection.
Ps. It won't see more than an hour of hwy or city driving at a time.</TD></TR></TABLE>

well i've tried it all except for n20. i had water injection, lht intercooler, more fuel, different intake setups. For a budget, you could run richer in the summer and use more fuel to cool the intake temps, somewhere around 11.5ish i remember trying and it would make more power than running 12.0 afr. Winter is different though and the 12.0-12.5 afr in the winter will probably make the most power. Summer heat soak sets in almost immediatly when running anything over 6-7psi.
The best was the lht intercooler and water injection combo, i ran 14psi on the dyno with that setup and i was on my way to making close to 300whp but i couldn't get the belts to stay on past 7k. At 6k i already had 250whp but it then would drop because of belt slippage. I settled for 9 psi, a few months later the blower bearings started to go out and i couldn't afford the car anymore and had to part out my setup, and sell the car. One day i will do it again in my new crx, but for now junkyard turbo on a d-series is my next project.

p.s water injection is cheap, if you really are intrested i could make you a write up on how to build your own kit. Probably will cost less than 150 for everything.

mr. Grind

i would really appreciate a write up on this water injection for $150.
ps. i am curious on how many miles your jrsc had before the bearings went?
Also, how long were you running 9 psi before it went out.
You have me kinda nervous since i am running 9-10 psi
Thanks a lot

Tad

I think I speak for many jrsc heads when I say that we would
all really love to see that writeup!!

About his bearings, they most likely went bad because he had to tighten
the belts down so tight to keep them from slipping.

IMO optimally, you would want to find a way to make some space and run like a 5rib
belt, and make sure they are good quality belts, like those gator grip, or the dayco polycog, they're supposed to grip better than your usual belt(aint cheap either).
I think the dayco ones are good, I have one on my car right now,
I have it tensioned WAY loose and have no problems holding boost.
only 6psi though..

mr. Grind

bump for the water injection write up

MtnCRX

bump bump for water inj write up